Bead seating tips?
#1
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Joined: Dec 2009
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Bead seating tips?
No amount of massaging brings the beads up into place. They dive at various points.
I am gonna try running some talc along my beads so they will seat right, and so I can ride them right away after that if it works.
I have heard of using soapy water, hairspray, windex, etc.
But I am under the impression you can't ride right away and need to let it dry out overnight.
Any other tips would be helpful.
I am gonna try running some talc along my beads so they will seat right, and so I can ride them right away after that if it works.
I have heard of using soapy water, hairspray, windex, etc.
But I am under the impression you can't ride right away and need to let it dry out overnight.
Any other tips would be helpful.
#3
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
The seating method varies according to whether you have hook edge or Endrich rims.
With Endrick rims the bead can be low in the center well, and you need to pull it up. Sometimes simply over-inflating will blow it out onto the seat with a solid pop sound. This is how auto and motorcycle tires are seated. This only works if it's close to begin with, otherwise you have to work the tire around to get it as close as possible then try more air.
Or you can pull it up with a pair of pump pliers (Channellok). If using pliers, protect the tire with a piece of leather (an old belt is fine). Put the short jaw against the rim and rock back to lever the opposite side out.
Lastly you can ride them a few days, then lower the pressure and try reseating after the tire has relaxed a bit.
Hook edge rims usually have the opposite issue where the tire is out too far and the bead not pocketed under the hook correctly. If inflated to full pressure, there's a good chance they'll blow off.
With Endrick rims the bead can be low in the center well, and you need to pull it up. Sometimes simply over-inflating will blow it out onto the seat with a solid pop sound. This is how auto and motorcycle tires are seated. This only works if it's close to begin with, otherwise you have to work the tire around to get it as close as possible then try more air.
Or you can pull it up with a pair of pump pliers (Channellok). If using pliers, protect the tire with a piece of leather (an old belt is fine). Put the short jaw against the rim and rock back to lever the opposite side out.
Lastly you can ride them a few days, then lower the pressure and try reseating after the tire has relaxed a bit.
Hook edge rims usually have the opposite issue where the tire is out too far and the bead not pocketed under the hook correctly. If inflated to full pressure, there's a good chance they'll blow off.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#4
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It is a Velocity Synergy clincher rim, with a Grand Bois Hetre (gumwall, kevlar bead, folding tire) going on it.
I inflated it to max rated psi for the tire, and that seems to have seated the bead well. There is one or two places where the witness line starts to dive a little, but I can still see it - it hasn't gone under the rim edge, so looks like it is as close as I'm gonna get.
I am hoping it will not present the same problems in the future, like after a flat fix. I'd hate to spend half an hour getting a tire seated on the road after a flat fix.
I inflated it to max rated psi for the tire, and that seems to have seated the bead well. There is one or two places where the witness line starts to dive a little, but I can still see it - it hasn't gone under the rim edge, so looks like it is as close as I'm gonna get.
I am hoping it will not present the same problems in the future, like after a flat fix. I'd hate to spend half an hour getting a tire seated on the road after a flat fix.
#5
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
It is a Velocity Synergy clincher rim, with a Grand Bois Hetre (gumwall, kevlar bead, folding tire) going on it.
I inflated it to max rated psi for the tire, and that seems to have seated the bead well. There is one or two places where the witness line starts to dive a little, but I can still see it - it hasn't gone under the rim edge, so looks like it is as close as I'm gonna get.
I am hoping it will not present the same problems in the future, like after a flat fix. I'd hate to spend half an hour getting a tire seated on the road after a flat fix.
I inflated it to max rated psi for the tire, and that seems to have seated the bead well. There is one or two places where the witness line starts to dive a little, but I can still see it - it hasn't gone under the rim edge, so looks like it is as close as I'm gonna get.
I am hoping it will not present the same problems in the future, like after a flat fix. I'd hate to spend half an hour getting a tire seated on the road after a flat fix.
Your tire should be much easier to seat the next time, because it'll have taken a round set. I even suggest that after riding them a few weeks, you deflate and reseat to see if you can get them perfect.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
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Joined: Dec 2009
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Thanks for the encouragement. There are warnings about being careful to seat the beads correctly. Makes it sound like instant death will occur if not. So I was a little concerned when it wasn't seating perfectly.
#7
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From: Melbourne, Oz
Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231
If you leave tyre on long enough (maybe as little as a few weeks?) while poorly seated, it can become deformed at the bead and never want to seat right.
I think the effect varies from tyre to tyre, probably depending on how much rubber is in the bead.
I think the effect varies from tyre to tyre, probably depending on how much rubber is in the bead.
#8
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Mtl.Qc.Can
What's worked well for me and I learned about on this fine forum, is running a soapy sponge between rim and tire before inflating. Before doing this and obstructing my view with suds I check all around the wheel on both sides -- pushing in the tire bead towards the middle to make sure the tube is not stuck between tire and rim.
Another simple trick I've picked up to make things easier once inflated is that after tightening the pump head on the valve, I lift the tire off the floor and check the tire for any obviously low spots before any pumping. Then inflate with the tire still off the ground. Otherwise I've found that the weight of the wheel with push down on the tire where it is between rim and floor. By lifting it off the ground as I start inflating the tube, I find that I don't have to deal with this low spot.
Then inflate to desired pressure, if the bead isn't centered, I let out enough air to where I can massage the bead closer to its final position by hand, and after working the tire mostly into position I then inflate to pressure again and pop goes the last low spot. This usually saves me from having to really over inflate to get the bead to pop in the most troublesome spots. And I haven't gotten the tube stuck or twisted when changing tires in the longest time.
Another simple trick I've picked up to make things easier once inflated is that after tightening the pump head on the valve, I lift the tire off the floor and check the tire for any obviously low spots before any pumping. Then inflate with the tire still off the ground. Otherwise I've found that the weight of the wheel with push down on the tire where it is between rim and floor. By lifting it off the ground as I start inflating the tube, I find that I don't have to deal with this low spot.
Then inflate to desired pressure, if the bead isn't centered, I let out enough air to where I can massage the bead closer to its final position by hand, and after working the tire mostly into position I then inflate to pressure again and pop goes the last low spot. This usually saves me from having to really over inflate to get the bead to pop in the most troublesome spots. And I haven't gotten the tube stuck or twisted when changing tires in the longest time.
#9
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Once the tire is fully inflated, it's not going to move on the rim whether or not it is wet.
#10
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From: North of Boston
Bikes: Kona Dawg, Surly 1x1, Karate Monkey, Rockhopper, Crosscheck , Burley Runabout,
Make sure the rim tape is even and centered. Patches on the tube? As said before, wet soapy sponge on the bead, use air compressor to inflate. That's how I set my tubeless tires.
#11
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
Generally one can go significantly over the "max" inflation when seating a tire. It was not unusual before hooked rims to have the above problem, and we routinely (but carefully) inflated 10-20 lbs over the recommended or max.
#12
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,135
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From: Middle of the road, NJ
The seating method varies according to whether you have hook edge or Endrich rims.
With Endrick rims the bead can be low in the center well, and you need to pull it up. Sometimes simply over-inflating will blow it out onto the seat with a solid pop sound. This is how auto and motorcycle tires are seated. This only works if it's close to begin with, otherwise you have to work the tire around to get it as close as possible then try more air.
Or you can pull it up with a pair of pump pliers (Channellok). If using pliers, protect the tire with a piece of leather (an old belt is fine). Put the short jaw against the rim and rock back to lever the opposite side out.
Lastly you can ride them a few days, then lower the pressure and try reseating after the tire has relaxed a bit.
Hook edge rims usually have the opposite issue where the tire is out too far and the bead not pocketed under the hook correctly. If inflated to full pressure, there's a good chance they'll blow off.
With Endrick rims the bead can be low in the center well, and you need to pull it up. Sometimes simply over-inflating will blow it out onto the seat with a solid pop sound. This is how auto and motorcycle tires are seated. This only works if it's close to begin with, otherwise you have to work the tire around to get it as close as possible then try more air.
Or you can pull it up with a pair of pump pliers (Channellok). If using pliers, protect the tire with a piece of leather (an old belt is fine). Put the short jaw against the rim and rock back to lever the opposite side out.
Lastly you can ride them a few days, then lower the pressure and try reseating after the tire has relaxed a bit.
Hook edge rims usually have the opposite issue where the tire is out too far and the bead not pocketed under the hook correctly. If inflated to full pressure, there's a good chance they'll blow off.
Mixing hook bean and Endrick also can lead to some mis-mounted tires.
#13
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Forgive me for sounding like a dunce, but what are you guys talking about? I don't doubt you know what you are doing, but I can't make any sense of it. In 30 years I have never had a problem with any tire I have mounted. Just get it on the rim, both sides of the bead, and inflate. Always right. Or at least right enough for me. Sometimes the tire pops into place, sometimes it is just there automatically. Old Specialized folding tires from the mid-80's, Michelins of various folding models, Conti GP4000, etc. I never even bother to look anymore. Whoops, I guess I shouldn't have said that. No kidding, I don't understand what this is all about. Witness line? I feel like I woke up in the Twilight Zone. Please clue me in.
#14
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From: Minnesota
Bikes: '09 Trek 2.1 * '75 Sekine * 2010 Raleigh Talus 8.0 * '90 Giant Mtb * Raleigh M20 * Fuji Nevada mtb
Can you elaborate on this when carrying a folding tire as a spare? I often wondered about the tire taking a set when in the pack for 6 months out of the year.. assuming of course I didn't need it...
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FB4K - Every October we wrench on donated bikes. Every December, a few thousand kids get bikes for Christmas. For many, it is their first bike, ever. Every bike, new and used, was donated, built, cleaned and repaired. Check us out on FaceBook: FB4K.
Disclaimer: 99% of what I know about cycling I learned on BF. That would make, ummm, 1% experience. And a lot of posts.
#15
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From: Washington DC
Bikes: 1981 Bianchi Limited 650B conversion (sold), 1985(?) Guerciotti retro-roadie, 2018 Specialized Allez Sprint, 2012 Specialized Crux, mid 80's Focus MB-400
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/0...th-deep-wells/
I think Jan's warning that poorly seated tires could cause a crash refers to potential crashes after a tire blowout or rapid deflation. If the tire beads are not seated properly, so that the tire overall is loose on the rim, after deflation the tire can move around and even get partially pulled off the rim which would cause serious control problems.
However, if the tire is properly inflated, I can't see any reason for a problem. At proper inflation it doesn't seem possible for the tire to move around or get pulled off, even if the bead height goes up and down somewhat at different places on the tire.
If anyone thinks this is not correct, please advise.
I have the Velocity Synergys with 38mm Soma B-lines. Personally, I don't worry about getting the tire perfectly even around the rim, I just futz with it for a few minutes to even out the biggest wobbles. The remaining small wobbles don't affect the ride at all, as far as I can tell.
#16
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From: Washington DC
Bikes: 1981 Bianchi Limited 650B conversion (sold), 1985(?) Guerciotti retro-roadie, 2018 Specialized Allez Sprint, 2012 Specialized Crux, mid 80's Focus MB-400
Forgive me for sounding like a dunce, but what are you guys talking about? I don't doubt you know what you are doing, but I can't make any sense of it. In 30 years I have never had a problem with any tire I have mounted. Just get it on the rim, both sides of the bead, and inflate. Always right. Or at least right enough for me. Sometimes the tire pops into place, sometimes it is just there automatically. Old Specialized folding tires from the mid-80's, Michelins of various folding models, Conti GP4000, etc. I never even bother to look anymore. Whoops, I guess I shouldn't have said that. No kidding, I don't understand what this is all about. Witness line? I feel like I woke up in the Twilight Zone. Please clue me in.
#17
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I got the bead on good and runs great so far.
Jan's page, plus LBS info, and also a guy who has a Panaracer (Makes Hetres) Kevlar belt folding (like Hetre) Xpress tire came off his rim while riding the other day. Why? I don't know. But I started to get a little nervous about the hard time I had getting the bead straight on mine.
Anyway, I pumped to max rated pressure and that seemed to do it. I have it back down to 60psi now.
I'll relax now and just try to enjoy the ride.
Jan's page, plus LBS info, and also a guy who has a Panaracer (Makes Hetres) Kevlar belt folding (like Hetre) Xpress tire came off his rim while riding the other day. Why? I don't know. But I started to get a little nervous about the hard time I had getting the bead straight on mine.
Anyway, I pumped to max rated pressure and that seemed to do it. I have it back down to 60psi now.
I'll relax now and just try to enjoy the ride.
#18
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
That's good to hear. Bikes are for riding and enjoying, not agonizing over.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#19
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Thanks. My bad! I have been spending all my time on the 41 road forum and didn't realize we might be talking about something not road specific here. But of course this is mechanics topics for any bike. Got it.
#20
When I mount new tires onto my Mountain Bike (2.1" to 2.4" wide folding bead tires) I often have to pump them to 70 or 80 PSI before they will seat (with a "pop" as described by FBinNY). The max rating on these tires is generally around 50 PSI - I usually ride them around 30.
#21
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From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
I can give a road-ish example, though. A set of 700x25 Continental Ultra Races would not seat evenly on my Araya 20As, despite my attempts at overinflating, deflating and massaging the sidewalls up and down, etc. They always had a slight hop when inflated to the specified pressure and ridden. While Ultra Races aren't their top-of-the-line road tire, I don't think inferior construction was necessarily to blame.
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