Seat Post Fit
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,982
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From: Alpharetta, GA
Bikes: LESS than I did a year ago!
Seat Post Fit
Hi All...
Needing advice here...I just got a 1962 Raleigh Gran Sport...and I am having some severe difficulty in getting the seat post back into the frame. I have measured the opening for the seat tube and the seat post itself...from the measurements, it should be a relatively good fit. Interestingly, the seat post is circularly (like a circular stair case) marked almost all the way up the post. This seems to indicate that, when disassembled, the post had to be "twisted" out...almost like screwing it out.
I have tried to measure the seat tube opening for being egg shaped, but it does not appear to be very bad that way.
Any advice/suggestions?
Needing advice here...I just got a 1962 Raleigh Gran Sport...and I am having some severe difficulty in getting the seat post back into the frame. I have measured the opening for the seat tube and the seat post itself...from the measurements, it should be a relatively good fit. Interestingly, the seat post is circularly (like a circular stair case) marked almost all the way up the post. This seems to indicate that, when disassembled, the post had to be "twisted" out...almost like screwing it out.
I have tried to measure the seat tube opening for being egg shaped, but it does not appear to be very bad that way.
Any advice/suggestions?
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 4
From: Above ground, Walnut Creek, Ca
Bikes: 8 ss bikes, 1 5-speed touring bike
if it were my bike, and i am assuming the seatpost in question came out of that frame, i would just sand the post a bit until it went back in smoothly. another option would be to get the next size smaller post...
#3
Mad bike riding scientist




Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 29,194
Likes: 6,279
From: Denver, CO
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Hi All...
Needing advice here...I just got a 1962 Raleigh Gran Sport...and I am having some severe difficulty in getting the seat post back into the frame. I have measured the opening for the seat tube and the seat post itself...from the measurements, it should be a relatively good fit. Interestingly, the seat post is circularly (like a circular stair case) marked almost all the way up the post. This seems to indicate that, when disassembled, the post had to be "twisted" out...almost like screwing it out.
I have tried to measure the seat tube opening for being egg shaped, but it does not appear to be very bad that way.
Any advice/suggestions?
Needing advice here...I just got a 1962 Raleigh Gran Sport...and I am having some severe difficulty in getting the seat post back into the frame. I have measured the opening for the seat tube and the seat post itself...from the measurements, it should be a relatively good fit. Interestingly, the seat post is circularly (like a circular stair case) marked almost all the way up the post. This seems to indicate that, when disassembled, the post had to be "twisted" out...almost like screwing it out.
I have tried to measure the seat tube opening for being egg shaped, but it does not appear to be very bad that way.
Any advice/suggestions?
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Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#4
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
+1
specifically, feel along the inside of the slot in the back of the seat tube. This is cut with a circular saw which tends to leave burrs on the inside. You can file them out with a rat tail or triangular file, but work upside down so any filings don't fall into the frame where they can get into the crank bearings.
Also the corners at the top of the slot sometimes get pushed in if the frame was dropped onto that end in production, so a bit of filing there often solves the problem.
specifically, feel along the inside of the slot in the back of the seat tube. This is cut with a circular saw which tends to leave burrs on the inside. You can file them out with a rat tail or triangular file, but work upside down so any filings don't fall into the frame where they can get into the crank bearings.
Also the corners at the top of the slot sometimes get pushed in if the frame was dropped onto that end in production, so a bit of filing there often solves the problem.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.





