Seat Post Insertion Question
#1
Thread Starter
OldSchool

Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,262
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From: Chesapeake, VA
Seat Post Insertion Question
So I am looking at this rather clean frame advertised as..... "No dents of any kind and frame is solid and straight."
Next line down is this beauty....."Takes a 27.2mm seat post. Seatpost goes in about halfway then requires some effort to go further. If you ride the saddle height where it should be on a 54cm frame, then you will have no problems."
I emailed him some questions about this. I asked to insert the post in the seat tube, mark the post at the top of the seat tube when it begins to hang up, take the post out and measure and tell me how far into the seat tube the seat post goes before it starts to hang up. No responses so far.
Other than a very slightly dented seat tube, what other explanation could there be for this? Thanks for any info!
Next line down is this beauty....."Takes a 27.2mm seat post. Seatpost goes in about halfway then requires some effort to go further. If you ride the saddle height where it should be on a 54cm frame, then you will have no problems."
I emailed him some questions about this. I asked to insert the post in the seat tube, mark the post at the top of the seat tube when it begins to hang up, take the post out and measure and tell me how far into the seat tube the seat post goes before it starts to hang up. No responses so far.
Other than a very slightly dented seat tube, what other explanation could there be for this? Thanks for any info!
#2
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From: Fredericksburg, Va
Bikes: ? Proteous, '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, 'Litespeed Catalyst'94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster
Corruption like rust or gunk is one option. I would ask him to shine a light down the ST and explain what he thinks the reason for the hangup based on what he can see.
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#3
I AM AI
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From: Tucson, AZ
Bikes: 2008 S-Works Roubaix SL, 1979 Raleigh Comp GS, 1978 Schwinn Volare
Was a very neglected bike.
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
#4
multimodal commuter
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My guess is the seller has tried this with only one seat post; so the problem could be on the seat post rather than on the seat tube.
Other than that, it's possible the seat tube was reamed out only as far as seemed necessary at the time.
Bear in mind that seat posts come in a variety of lengths, so we're talking about half of an unkown number.
Whatever the problem is, I doubt it would prevent me from buying a frame I wanted.
Other than that, it's possible the seat tube was reamed out only as far as seemed necessary at the time.
Bear in mind that seat posts come in a variety of lengths, so we're talking about half of an unkown number.
Whatever the problem is, I doubt it would prevent me from buying a frame I wanted.
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#6
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Raleigh, NC
Bikes: Waterford RST-22, Bob Jackson World Tour, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Soma Saga, De Bernardi SL, Specialized Sequoia
I bought a brand new (NOS) Italian frame a few years ago that was sized for a 27.2 post. However, my mechanic had to ream out the seat tube quite a bit to fit a seatpost in it due to paint overspray and perhaps other issues.
#7
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From: Santa Rosa, California
Bikes: Waterford 953 RS-22, several Paramounts
Like others here, I suspect surface rust inside the seat tube below where the seller normally has the seatpost positioned. Reaming the seat tube - about a one minute job - should fix the problem.
#8
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From: Fredericksburg, Va
Bikes: ? Proteous, '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, 'Litespeed Catalyst'94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster
Should it be corrosion, you can use a 12Ga brass brush to knock off the loose stuff followed by a brake honing tool.
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#9
may not have ever been reamed in the first place. Most frames need reaming as the heat from brazing distorts the tubes at the junctions. Usually this just means reaming the junction a bit.
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#11
Thread Starter
OldSchool

Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Chesapeake, VA
#13
reaming tools are of limited length, usually just to ream the distorted tube junction section, so if the problem is further down it won't help. I would use the brass brush and hone tool first to see if that helps. It's unlikely to damage the seat tube from forcing a post in, and more likely to damage the post. I have seen a bulged seat-tube from a forced in oversized post, but that was only once. That person must have been pretty strong to do that.
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#14
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From: Pearland, Texas
Bikes: Cannondale, Trek, Raleigh, Santana
#15
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Santa Rosa, California
Bikes: Waterford 953 RS-22, several Paramounts
reaming tools are of limited length, usually just to ream the distorted tube junction section, so if the problem is further down it won't help. I would use the brass brush and hone tool first to see if that helps. It's unlikely to damage the seat tube from forcing a post in, and more likely to damage the post. I have seen a bulged seat-tube from a forced in oversized post, but that was only once. That person must have been pretty strong to do that.
If there is a concern about the reamer cutting too deeply into the tubing wall, turn the handle counter-clockwise (against the cutter edges) instead of clockwise.
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