Rear Wheel Trouble
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Rear Wheel Trouble
Recently I purchased a good performance hybrid made by Diamondback and I noticed that the V brakes on the back wheel were rubbing against the wheel. So being a beginner and all I searched "how to adjust V brakes" on Youtube, in one video it said to make sure the wheel was in properly and the man used his quick release to make sure the wheel was installed right. I did this on my bike but I think I messed it up because the rear wheel doesn't look like it's spinning straight when I ride it. Also, I disabled the rear brakes and I can't get them back on because there's too much pressure on the cord. Can anybody help me?

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OK, there's a difference a wheel that's installed improperly and is now at an angle, and a wheel that's warped so the rim moves side to side as it spins.
First spin the wheel and see if it spins without wobble and is a mounting issue or if it wobbles which is a spokes/wheel alignment issue.
For the first, put your bike on the floor, open the QR, look to see that the wheel is centered in the frame at the front of the chainstays (up toward the crank) and between the seat stays near the brakes. Depending on the dropout it should center by itself, or with horizontal dopouts you can center between the chainstays. (seat stay centering should always be automatic, though not always perfect). Adjust and close the QR.
Hopefully that solves the wheel problem, but if it wobbles, search wheel alignment for some tutorials, and decide if it's something you're ready for.
The brake is easier. When you disconnect the cable at the noodle, sometimes the slack allows the housing to slip out of the fittings. Then when you try to reattach the housing hangs on the sides of the fitting and doesn't pocket as before. Work from the levers back, and make sure the housing is pocketed fully into every fitting, while holding some tension on the inner wire to keep it there. Then when you get to the brake you should have the slack needed to reseat the noodle into it's receiver if you squeeze the brake arms together all the way.
I hope this helped. If you need more help, the best resource is usually a friend or a local bicycle co-op where an experienced person can walk you through for a low cost, or in many cases in exchage for some volunteer hours.
First spin the wheel and see if it spins without wobble and is a mounting issue or if it wobbles which is a spokes/wheel alignment issue.
For the first, put your bike on the floor, open the QR, look to see that the wheel is centered in the frame at the front of the chainstays (up toward the crank) and between the seat stays near the brakes. Depending on the dropout it should center by itself, or with horizontal dopouts you can center between the chainstays. (seat stay centering should always be automatic, though not always perfect). Adjust and close the QR.
Hopefully that solves the wheel problem, but if it wobbles, search wheel alignment for some tutorials, and decide if it's something you're ready for.
The brake is easier. When you disconnect the cable at the noodle, sometimes the slack allows the housing to slip out of the fittings. Then when you try to reattach the housing hangs on the sides of the fitting and doesn't pocket as before. Work from the levers back, and make sure the housing is pocketed fully into every fitting, while holding some tension on the inner wire to keep it there. Then when you get to the brake you should have the slack needed to reseat the noodle into it's receiver if you squeeze the brake arms together all the way.
I hope this helped. If you need more help, the best resource is usually a friend or a local bicycle co-op where an experienced person can walk you through for a low cost, or in many cases in exchage for some volunteer hours.
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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"The rear wheel doesn't look like it's spinning straight when I ride it." can mean two entirely different things. Either the wheel in itself is out of true - forms kinda wave instead of a flat disc. Or the wheel is OK, but sitting askew in the frame. If the wheel is OK, it should keep the same distance from the frame/brake pad as it spins. And then you need to sort on your wheel insertion skills.
Otherwise, it's wheel trueing time.
For brakes being too tight, it's usually possible to unhook the noodle - the bend at the end of the cable cover - from its holder on the brake arm to get enough slack to insert the wheel. Otherwise turn the barrel adjuster on the lever all the way in to create some slack.
Otherwise, it's wheel trueing time.
For brakes being too tight, it's usually possible to unhook the noodle - the bend at the end of the cable cover - from its holder on the brake arm to get enough slack to insert the wheel. Otherwise turn the barrel adjuster on the lever all the way in to create some slack.
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Assuming that your rear wheel is true (if you know what that means), and since you are a beginner I hope you are not offended that I ask. The problem should be with the wheel alignment (what FBinNY said), or with brake adjustment. Check this link, Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Linear Pull Brake Service (V-brake style) but do not do anything until you know that the wheel is true and the wheel is centered in the drop-outs.
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I think the wheel needs to be trued because when I spun the wheel it was straight then it suddenly got closer to the brake pads
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One of my minor technology peeves is the end of vinyl records. Nothing to do with music, it's just that it iused to be easy to ask someone if their wheel was like a warped record. These days, there's not as easy or familiar comparison.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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In the past I looked for a vinyl player but since there considered vintage now they're way too expensive, but is it possible to true a wheel without a truing wrench I don't have one?
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It's possible with a small adjustable, but not something you want to do except when there was no alternative at all (on the road in Siberia, 100s of miles from the nearest spoke key). Pick up a spoke wrench, but be forewarned that wheel aligning is something of a skill vs. knowledge job, so review plenty of tutorials, and work slowly by small degrees lest you go from bad to worse.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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The wheel actually needed truing and you had this performed by your LBS?
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