Jakedatc

I discovered the other day that the cable stop on my top tube for the rear brake is loose. it only lifts off the tube a very small amount.. like paper width but it rotates a bit due to the housing. aluminum frame.

is there glue or epoxy that i could get in the space and have it hold?

sorry for the grainy pic but it shows where the stop is.

FBinNY 

I rarely find products to be defective, bit IMO this probably makes the cut. Glue isn't strong enough, and odds are that it's pinned to the tube somehow.

In any case it's a material safety issue, since sudden failure means loss of the rear brake, and is likely to happen at the worst time. I'd contact the maker and let them design and implement a proper fix.

BTW- if you don't get some kind of positive response for the maker, remind them that it's a safety issue, and the next step would to contact the CPSC and see if it warrants a recall.

fietsbob

Not a cure but a Bypass, since its the rear brake you can use a continuous cable housing run from lever to brake and continue riding the bike ..

it will be safe then .. . zip tie the housing to the top tube .. ..

Jakedatc

FB it is still riveted through on the frame.. it just rotates slightly. i hardly use my rear brake anyway.. like once a month haha it is still fully functional the way it is, the calipers don't bounce back as far as i'd like due to the friction.

i just need something that will keep it from rotating.

FBinNY 

Problem is that any movement on the pin will work at the glue joint. Also, a decent bond might call for a paint free metal to metal bond. I'm sure there's a fix, but let the folks who know what they did, give you direction.

beerbaron2002

JB weld about 5 bucks, its metal glue. or take it in if youre not concerned about cost.

Jakedatc

My frame is from a tiny company in Taiwan that may or may not exist anymore. I've never really found a website for them. They used to be a fairly popular track/tt frame.

riveted cable stops are pretty common so i figured someone would have a solution. JB weld in a needle bottle might be the first step.

SkyDog75

Even though it's riveted, I'd be a little nervous to use a consumer-grade epoxy on something as important as a brake cable stop. If I was going to glue it, this might be the occasion to spend a few bucks extra on something really heavy duty like West System epoxy.

Wilfred Laurier

ask this question in
the framebuilders sub forum
someone there knows how

mulveyr 

Yep. I build high power rockets using epoxy. The forces involved in launching an I-motor rocket are a lot higher than you're going to get on a brake cable stop.

OP: Find the longest-curing epoxy you can get your hands on. 24+ hour cure times would be best. I'm a fan of structural Aeropoxy, but as mentioned, West Systems is great too. Do NOT use the 5 to 30 minute "Bob Smith" stuff you'll find in hobby shops. Use a needle file or the coarsest emory paper you can squeeze into the gap, take it down to the paint and rough up the tube and stop, get as much epoxy into the gap as you can, then clean up any excess with rubbing alcohol. Leave a small fillet around the edge of the stop.

Then walk away and do NOT fiddle with it until the cure time has been reached. You won't be able to remove it with anything short of an angle grinder after that.

fietsbob

I'm thinking the resin will be too thick for what the poster says .. a needle bottle,
particularly with powdered filler metal in it, which JB Weld does.

Jakedatc

yea i might have to just poke the epoxy of whatever type into the space with something very thin.

fietsbob

NB: Cut(&grind flatends) a precise length of housing to go between the frame stops ..
IT will make it as if a continuous length,, and will reduce the shear forces on the weak housing stop.

Jakedatc

Update: well I went with normal metal JB Weld. I sanded between the pieces as much as i could and then used a toothpick to get the epoxy into the space. zip tied it tight and left it for a few days to cure. I haven't tested it under hard braking yet, but since i don't use the rear brake much anyway it is at least not rotating.

mctrek

If you have access to 3m adhesives, 3m 810, 2 part adhesive does a good job on metal to metal adhesion. But it sounds like the epoxy you used worked good also.