after some serious thinking.. decided to swing for the fences and go SRAM XO for my cyclocross build.

i noticed for the SRAM X0 2x10 Low Clamp Compact 38/36t Front Derailleur, it mentioned bottom pull or top pull.

https://goo.gl/8VosxF

if my FD cable is coming up from the bottom of the BB section, wouldn't that make it a bottom pull? just wanted to make sure before purchasing it.

thanks in advance.

Top or bottom pull refers to the direction the cable comes from.

The classic design is bottom pull with cables routed along the down tube and unser the bottom bracket. Top pull cables are routed along the top tube down to the FD from above. The advantage is that it keeps the cable out of the dirt, and hopefully has lower friction.

If I had a choice, all things being equal, I would go top pull and keep the cables away from the dirt under the BB. However I don't know the engineering aspects of cabling, friction and leverage enough to make a qualified judgement.

not sure if my 2014 redline conquest team is top or bottom pull. so here are some photos of her underside..

According to the Redline website, the 2014 Conquest Team is spec'd with Ultegra Di2 - therefore no cables. It does say it has internal cable routing.

However, from the photos of the frame you provided you would need a bottom pull FD (see first pic with small hole behind the BB).

SRAM X0 is an MTB group, with flat bar components (brake, shifters). Your frame is a CX frame, is it not?

yup.. it's a cx frame.. i'm going to using RED shifters instead of the flatbar components (brake, shifter).

i bought the one with dual pull, either top or bottom and it's high mount.

Good luck on the build. Post pics when you're done

yup.. for sure. gotta save up for some carbon wheelset... so for now will just roll around with some DA-7800 wheelset on 28c conti urban tires...

Have you ever had, or seen, this bike set up with mechanical shifting? The pics are not conclusive, and according to the Redline description, it's electronic (Di2).

The shot inside the bottom bracket showing the open tube doesn't appear like it's positioned for a smooth mechanical cable path. Where does the cable enter the bottom bracket? Are there cable stops on, or in the frame? The shot showing the "hole" in the chainstay transition has it in roughly the right spot but it doesn't appear to me to be for a mechanical cable.

Can you route a mechanical cable through the bottom bracket without interference with the spindle? Maybe you can make this work, but it's hard to say without seeing it first hand. Again, the pics don't tell the story, nor does the Redline sight. The "disc" model is set up with mechanical shifting, and it does say it "Di2 ready" so you may be able to. They could share the same frame. The "Team" frame does appear to have hydro guides on the down tube and chainstay.

Good luck!

thanks for the reminder reddog3. i'm pretty sure it will support mechanical shifting... but just sent an email to REDLINE to confirm. i do see there's a screw down clamp for the shifter cables for both FD & RD.

see here

Well that pic is better. It certainly appears to be a guide to keep the cables out of harms way. I assume (without seeing) the cables enter the downtube somewhere near the headtube. That doesn't address the issue with "stops." there has to be cable housing stops somewhere in the cable path, or it won't shift!

The guide appears to capture the cable housing. Is it just a short piece of housing or "noodle," or are the shifter housings full length? If so, you might not like the shift performance. Hopefully Redline can provide some insight.

I'd hope there's a stop where the housing enters the top tube- running bare cable through a guide captured by the "clamp" in your pic. For the front DR, only one stop would be required (where the cable enters the tube. Rear DR requires two stops- one where it enters the tube, and one where the rear loop enters the chainstay.

If it's a full length cable, and going to the rear, a stop on/in the chainstay wouldn't be required. But, like I said you probably ain't gonna like the performance.

Well that pic is better. It certainly appears to be a guide to keep the cables out of harms way. I assume (without seeing) the cables enter the downtube somewhere near the headtube. That doesn't address the issue with "stops." there has to be cable housing stops somewhere in the cable path, or it won't shift!

The guide appears to capture the cable housing. Is it just a short piece of housing or "noodle," or are the shifter housings full length? If so, you might not like the shift performance. Hopefully Redline can provide some insight.

I'd hope there's a stop where the housing enters the top tube- running bare cable through a guide captured by the "clamp" in your pic. For the front DR, only one stop would be required (where the cable enters the tube.) Rear DR requires two stops- one where it enters the tube, and one where the rear loop enters the chainstay.

If it's a full length cable, and going to the rear, a stop on/in the chainstay wouldn't be required. But, like I said you probably ain't gonna like the performance.

If you look closely, there are cable stops on the frame - at the headtube, and on the downtube.

Maybe the built bike would have been the better value ?. it often is cheaper than piece at a time builds .

perhaps.. but it takes the whole fun out of building your own.

Glad you got cash in abundance..

Cyclocross racing is a lot of maintenance , you would get in plenty of wrenching .. i always overhaul any new bike I buy .
as the mass assembles dont have attention to detail such as greasing all the small machine screws , dry fit is quicker.

fietsbob... i don't.. but once you caught the bug.. it's a hard addiction to kick. hell.. that's why i have a scott addict... that's how addicted i am...