fitting a rear brake on fork
06-03-14 | 03:54 PM
#1
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fitting a rear brake on fork
I bought a Shimano Sora brake for an older fixie that I once had. I want to reuse the brake but put it on a new fork I just bought. Since it is a rear brake the mounting bolt isn't long enough. I've been looking online and haven't seen any place that sells a longer bolt. If anyone has any idea how I fit this brake onto my fork it would be greatly appreciated!
06-03-14 | 04:13 PM
#3
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From: Above ground, Walnut Creek, Ca
Bikes: 8 ss bikes, 1 5-speed touring bike
you might try looking for a longer nut. really.
because front forks have become deeper in recent years, there are some pretty loooong ones out there. beware the brake housing attachment may be, or may not be, on the opposite side than you might expect it to be on when mounting a rear brake on the front.
because front forks have become deeper in recent years, there are some pretty loooong ones out there. beware the brake housing attachment may be, or may not be, on the opposite side than you might expect it to be on when mounting a rear brake on the front.
06-03-14 | 04:20 PM
#4
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
The good news is that new brakes often come with several recessed nuts of various lengths. That means that every LBS probably has a drawer full of them. If they like you that might even be a gimmy.
The bad news is you might have to drill out the rear of your fork to fit the recess nut. That's not a very big deal. Just remember NOT to drill all the way through to the front.
The bad news is you might have to drill out the rear of your fork to fit the recess nut. That's not a very big deal. Just remember NOT to drill all the way through to the front.
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06-03-14 | 06:49 PM
#5
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Sometimes you cannot find a nut long enough, like when using a rear brake on a fork with a thick crown. Or when the fork isn't drilled for a recessed nut.
Here's the workaround for these.
Buy a recessed nut about 1" long (or more). cut off the head along with 1/8" of the nut which you may need later. Now you have a threaded coupler. Buy a stainless 6mm cap screw. Measure and cut the screw (or buy the right length) so it reches through almost but not quite, to the brake bolt. Mount the brake, and position your coupler in the middle of the steerer and spin it onto the brake at 5-6 turns or about 1/2 way. Now use the cap screw to catch the other side and pull everything tight. (It's important that the coupler is roughly centered so at least 5 threads are engaged on both the brake and screw).
If the fork is frilled for a recessed nut, drill out the head you saved earlier to 6mm, and use it as a filler/washer in the back of the fork.
Here's the workaround for these.
Buy a recessed nut about 1" long (or more). cut off the head along with 1/8" of the nut which you may need later. Now you have a threaded coupler. Buy a stainless 6mm cap screw. Measure and cut the screw (or buy the right length) so it reches through almost but not quite, to the brake bolt. Mount the brake, and position your coupler in the middle of the steerer and spin it onto the brake at 5-6 turns or about 1/2 way. Now use the cap screw to catch the other side and pull everything tight. (It's important that the coupler is roughly centered so at least 5 threads are engaged on both the brake and screw).
If the fork is frilled for a recessed nut, drill out the head you saved earlier to 6mm, and use it as a filler/washer in the back of the fork.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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