One way rear hub for Co-pilot weeride. Quality replacement?
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One way rear hub for Co-pilot weeride. Quality replacement?
I've got Co-pilot weeride bike trailer. Kids love it. One problem - rear hub one-way thingy is really bad. It's sloppy and out of the box was grabby (grabbing pedal not allowing to freewheel)
I figured and got it better by loosening chain a little and straightening wheel (it was tightened slightly angled). Seems to be working good now, but I wonder if there is qiality replacement for such hub? I don't mind try and practice wheel building on this thing
You can see it screwed onto hub, bronze-looking thing. Other than that hub internals look pretty standard. I took axle out and cleaned/relubed whole thing. Bearing wasn't adjusted properly either
I figured and got it better by loosening chain a little and straightening wheel (it was tightened slightly angled). Seems to be working good now, but I wonder if there is qiality replacement for such hub? I don't mind try and practice wheel building on this thing
You can see it screwed onto hub, bronze-looking thing. Other than that hub internals look pretty standard. I took axle out and cleaned/relubed whole thing. Bearing wasn't adjusted properly either
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Freewheels are simple units with a ratchet system riding ball bearings. They're virtually bullet proof by virtue of the fact that they never have parts moving under load. When coasting there's no load, and when pedaling there's no internal movement. They require minimal care, a drop of oil once in a blue moon. As a rule, when new units are sticky or bind, it's because the original grease dried and is acting more like glue than oil.
You can do nothing and odd are it'll improve by itself, or you can lean the bike over and apply a drop or two at the seam between the moving and stationary part, then back pedal slowly to draw it in. DO NOT USE A THIN OIL OR SOLVENT LIKE WD40, since it'll run out when you ride and make a mess.
You can do nothing and odd are it'll improve by itself, or you can lean the bike over and apply a drop or two at the seam between the moving and stationary part, then back pedal slowly to draw it in. DO NOT USE A THIN OIL OR SOLVENT LIKE WD40, since it'll run out when you ride and make a mess.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Freewheels are simple units with a ratchet system riding ball bearings. They're virtually bullet proof by virtue of the fact that they never have parts moving under load. When coasting there's no load, and when pedaling there's no internal movement. They require minimal care, a drop of oil once in a blue moon. As a rule, when new units are sticky or bind, it's because the original grease dried and is acting more like glue than oil.
You can do nothing and odd are it'll improve by itself, or you can lean the bike over and apply a drop or two at the seam between the moving and stationary part, then back pedal slowly to draw it in. DO NOT USE A THIN OIL OR SOLVENT LIKE WD40, since it'll run out when you ride and make a mess.
You can do nothing and odd are it'll improve by itself, or you can lean the bike over and apply a drop or two at the seam between the moving and stationary part, then back pedal slowly to draw it in. DO NOT USE A THIN OIL OR SOLVENT LIKE WD40, since it'll run out when you ride and make a mess.
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BTW- freewheels don't need or want grease. They want oil, and the only requirement is that it's thick enough to form a film and stay put as the wheel spins. As I said, there are never parts moving under load, so the lube requirements are about as close to zero as you can imagine.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 06-03-14 at 09:16 PM.
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Yes, this is approximately how I got it now. It was too tight from a box. Now I have wheel straight and parallel to the chain as possible. Seems like it is working pretty good now. I asked original question because I'm not really impressed with quality (wobble, eccentricity). But if all that expected I guess I will just use it and enjoy
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BTW- freewheels don't need or want grease. They want oil, and the only requirement is that it's thick enough to form a film and stay put as the wheel spins. As I said, there are never parts moving under load, so the lube requirements are about as close to zero as you can imagine.
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No, it's not doing anything bad. But if the freewheel acts sticky, that's the grease speaking. Just work some oil in to thin it if/when necessary.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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