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One way rear hub for Co-pilot weeride. Quality replacement?

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One way rear hub for Co-pilot weeride. Quality replacement?

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Old 06-03-14, 08:36 PM
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One way rear hub for Co-pilot weeride. Quality replacement?

I've got Co-pilot weeride bike trailer. Kids love it. One problem - rear hub one-way thingy is really bad. It's sloppy and out of the box was grabby (grabbing pedal not allowing to freewheel)
I figured and got it better by loosening chain a little and straightening wheel (it was tightened slightly angled). Seems to be working good now, but I wonder if there is qiality replacement for such hub? I don't mind try and practice wheel building on this thing

You can see it screwed onto hub, bronze-looking thing. Other than that hub internals look pretty standard. I took axle out and cleaned/relubed whole thing. Bearing wasn't adjusted properly either

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Old 06-03-14, 08:42 PM
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Freewheels are simple units with a ratchet system riding ball bearings. They're virtually bullet proof by virtue of the fact that they never have parts moving under load. When coasting there's no load, and when pedaling there's no internal movement. They require minimal care, a drop of oil once in a blue moon. As a rule, when new units are sticky or bind, it's because the original grease dried and is acting more like glue than oil.

You can do nothing and odd are it'll improve by itself, or you can lean the bike over and apply a drop or two at the seam between the moving and stationary part, then back pedal slowly to draw it in. DO NOT USE A THIN OIL OR SOLVENT LIKE WD40, since it'll run out when you ride and make a mess.
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Old 06-03-14, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
Freewheels are simple units with a ratchet system riding ball bearings. They're virtually bullet proof by virtue of the fact that they never have parts moving under load. When coasting there's no load, and when pedaling there's no internal movement. They require minimal care, a drop of oil once in a blue moon. As a rule, when new units are sticky or bind, it's because the original grease dried and is acting more like glue than oil.

You can do nothing and odd are it'll improve by itself, or you can lean the bike over and apply a drop or two at the seam between the moving and stationary part, then back pedal slowly to draw it in. DO NOT USE A THIN OIL OR SOLVENT LIKE WD40, since it'll run out when you ride and make a mess.
I'm not sure what kind of clearances there should be. Outer ring moves up and down like 1-1.5mm. I was doing it and pushed some moly grease inside. It did improve like I said but when I watch it freewheel I can see outer ring with sprocket wobbling a little.
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Old 06-03-14, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by katit
I'm not sure what kind of clearances there should be. Outer ring moves up and down like 1-1.5mm. I was doing it and pushed some moly grease inside. It did improve like I said but when I watch it freewheel I can see outer ring with sprocket wobbling a little.
That's par for the course and perfectly OK. Make sure you position the wheel so the chain "tension" is always zero, or slack. Since there's some eccentricity in the hub and chainring (also normal) you have to confirm slack in the tightest position. Correct "tension" allows free movement about 1/4-1/2" up and down at the center of the lower loop. I try to set or minimal slack, but still slack at the tightest position.

BTW- freewheels don't need or want grease. They want oil, and the only requirement is that it's thick enough to form a film and stay put as the wheel spins. As I said, there are never parts moving under load, so the lube requirements are about as close to zero as you can imagine.
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Last edited by FBinNY; 06-03-14 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 06-03-14, 09:16 PM
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Yes, this is approximately how I got it now. It was too tight from a box. Now I have wheel straight and parallel to the chain as possible. Seems like it is working pretty good now. I asked original question because I'm not really impressed with quality (wobble, eccentricity). But if all that expected I guess I will just use it and enjoy
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Old 06-03-14, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
BTW- freewheels don't need or want grease. They want oil, and the only requirement is that it's thick enough to form a film and stay put as the wheel spins. As I said, there are never parts moving under load, so the lube requirements are about as close to zero as you can imagine.
Do I need to take out grease that I put in? I don't think there is lot, I just pushed it inside gap..
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Old 06-03-14, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by katit
Do I need to take out grease that I put in? I don't think there is lot, I just pushed it inside gap..
No, it's not doing anything bad. But if the freewheel acts sticky, that's the grease speaking. Just work some oil in to thin it if/when necessary.
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