Front thumb shifter problem
#3
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
It's hard to know since you offer few details, but usually this is friction.
Could be with in the FD itself -- test by shifting by pushing down on the arm .to see if it moves easily or not
Or, friction where the wire passes below the bottom bracket, (or down from top tube on top pull), test by shifting by pulling the bare wire away from the down tube like a bow string (compare the the RD wire using the same method)
Or if not there, it could be in the handlebar/frame housing.
Also, know that often levers get harder to shift, both front and rear, when the cable is beginning to fray in the lever before breaking. If you can't identify a source of friction, you might need a new cable (replace housing at the same time).
Could be with in the FD itself -- test by shifting by pushing down on the arm .to see if it moves easily or not
Or, friction where the wire passes below the bottom bracket, (or down from top tube on top pull), test by shifting by pulling the bare wire away from the down tube like a bow string (compare the the RD wire using the same method)
Or if not there, it could be in the handlebar/frame housing.
Also, know that often levers get harder to shift, both front and rear, when the cable is beginning to fray in the lever before breaking. If you can't identify a source of friction, you might need a new cable (replace housing at the same time).
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#4
It's hard to know since you offer few details, but usually this is friction.
Could be with in the FD itself -- test by shifting by pushing down on the arm .to see if it moves easily or not
Or, friction where the wire passes below the bottom bracket, (or down from top tube on top pull), test by shifting by pulling the bare wire away from the down tube like a bow string (compare the the RD wire using the same method)
Or if not there, it could be in the handlebar/frame housing.
Also, know that often levers get harder to shift, both front and rear, when the cable is beginning to fray in the lever before breaking. If you can't identify a source of friction, you might need a new cable (replace housing at the same time).
Could be with in the FD itself -- test by shifting by pushing down on the arm .to see if it moves easily or not
Or, friction where the wire passes below the bottom bracket, (or down from top tube on top pull), test by shifting by pulling the bare wire away from the down tube like a bow string (compare the the RD wire using the same method)
Or if not there, it could be in the handlebar/frame housing.
Also, know that often levers get harder to shift, both front and rear, when the cable is beginning to fray in the lever before breaking. If you can't identify a source of friction, you might need a new cable (replace housing at the same time).
It appears th OP has a problem with the thumb button on 2200 shifters, which is the release. Yes, they are frequently stiff. Most likely stiffness in the shifter mechanism itself (it may break-in) or possibly the high limit is set too "low" thus binding when in the big ring.
#5
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
(And you ask about OCD.)
It appears th OP has a problem with the thumb button on 2200 shifters, which is the release. Yes, they are frequently stiff. Most likely stiffness in the shifter mechanism itself (it may break-in) or possibly the high limit is set too "low" thus binding when in the big ring.
It appears th OP has a problem with the thumb button on 2200 shifters, which is the release. Yes, they are frequently stiff. Most likely stiffness in the shifter mechanism itself (it may break-in) or possibly the high limit is set too "low" thus binding when in the big ring.
If you have a better answer, feel free to post.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#7
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Yes, it was a thread I started as a tongue in cheek fun thread, and most people posted in that spirit. Apparently you saw it as an opportunity to be an ankle biter, which I gather reflects on your personality more than my OCD problem.
I gave you the courtesy of ignoring your snide post there, but apparently your personality defects are too pronounced to leave bad enough alone.
However, feel free to keep it up, because I give this kind of nonsense the attention it deserves - zero. I truly could not care less what you think.
I gave you the courtesy of ignoring your snide post there, but apparently your personality defects are too pronounced to leave bad enough alone.
However, feel free to keep it up, because I give this kind of nonsense the attention it deserves - zero. I truly could not care less what you think.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#8
#9
pretty vague question but ill do what I can.
start by disconnecting your cable from your front deraileur. hold onto the cable end and apply slight pressure. try shifting. does it feel the same or different. if its the same your problem is either in the cable/housing, or shifter.
If it feels easier then your issue is with the setup of your front deraileur.
shifter/cable issue.
1. verify your housings are all seated properly in the braze ons.
2. no kinks or bends in the cable? pull the cable out and look for broken strands which may be catching.
3. alot of dirt inside housing will cause an issue.
4. you can spray wd40 inside your shifter to clean it out if it feels gummed up
5. replace cable and housing. be sure to use metal housing endcaps everywhere you can
Deraileur issue
1. with front deraileur disconnected see if you can push and hold the cage outward as you turn the cranks. does the chain move from one ring to the next. if not you need to adjust the limit screws
2. inspect the deraileur cage and spring, no damage? is it mounted to the frame in the optimal position??
check all these things. if its still problematic repost with all that info, or then bring to a shop.
gluck.
start by disconnecting your cable from your front deraileur. hold onto the cable end and apply slight pressure. try shifting. does it feel the same or different. if its the same your problem is either in the cable/housing, or shifter.
If it feels easier then your issue is with the setup of your front deraileur.
shifter/cable issue.
1. verify your housings are all seated properly in the braze ons.
2. no kinks or bends in the cable? pull the cable out and look for broken strands which may be catching.
3. alot of dirt inside housing will cause an issue.
4. you can spray wd40 inside your shifter to clean it out if it feels gummed up
5. replace cable and housing. be sure to use metal housing endcaps everywhere you can
Deraileur issue
1. with front deraileur disconnected see if you can push and hold the cage outward as you turn the cranks. does the chain move from one ring to the next. if not you need to adjust the limit screws
2. inspect the deraileur cage and spring, no damage? is it mounted to the frame in the optimal position??
check all these things. if its still problematic repost with all that info, or then bring to a shop.
gluck.
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2010 Kestrel RT900SL, 800k carbon, chorus/record, speedplay, zonda
2000 litespeed Unicoi Ti, XTR,XT, Campy crank, time atac, carbon forks
2010 Kestrel RT900SL, 800k carbon, chorus/record, speedplay, zonda
2000 litespeed Unicoi Ti, XTR,XT, Campy crank, time atac, carbon forks
Last edited by catonec; 06-14-14 at 06:48 PM.
#10
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
But if my long winded posts bother you as much as they seem to, I don't understand why you read them.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#11
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Wow, you all are fast! Thank you for the help. Everything works fine except that, it changes with no problem except takes more pressure than it should. I notice that if I press it forward and down, it takes less pressure, which maybe means it's in the shifter. I will spray it with WD 40.
Thanks again everyone
Thanks again everyone
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