How do you replace grip shifter cables?
#1
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How do you replace grip shifter cables?
How do you replace grip shifter cables?
I was able to unscrew the grip shifter from the handlebars. Then I tried prying the grip part away from the shifting mechanism with a flathead screwdriver. This led to me breaking a plastic portion of the mechanism. I ended up buying a whole new grip shifter which has the cable pre-installed, but I would have preferred to just replace the cable. Is there a reasonable way to swap out an old cable on a grip shifter? Thanks.
I was able to unscrew the grip shifter from the handlebars. Then I tried prying the grip part away from the shifting mechanism with a flathead screwdriver. This led to me breaking a plastic portion of the mechanism. I ended up buying a whole new grip shifter which has the cable pre-installed, but I would have preferred to just replace the cable. Is there a reasonable way to swap out an old cable on a grip shifter? Thanks.
#3
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Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Central Oregon
Bikes: Redline Conquest Pro, Kona Cinder Cone, Trek Fuel EX8(RIP) Pivot Mach 5 frankenbike
On the common SRAM MRX shifters found on cheaper bikes you peel back the rubber covering near the shifter body to expose the groove the cable sits in and feed the cable back out. Zinn's MTB book has illustrated instructions. Some of fancier twist grip shifters have some sort of cover you remove instead.
#4
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Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Northern California
Bikes: RitcheyAscent, FisherMontare
Which brand? Most likely SRAM. If so, I use 7-speed SRAM MRX shifters and 9-speed SRAM X.9 shifters. Here's what I've found:
MRX: take them apart. I CANNOT get a new cable to thread thru, even one with a soldered tip. Remove them from the bike, and pinch the 4 white plastic retainers inside the black twist-grip - once all four are displaced inward, the twist-grip will slide off over them, and the shifter can be dis-assembled. Observe closely the position of all parts and you'll be able to re-assemble after you've put in a new cable (with patience and a few curses).
X.9: If you've a new cable with a soldered tip, it can be threaded thru pretty easily, following SRAM's instructions. If not, dis-assemble much as above.
Good luck!
MRX: take them apart. I CANNOT get a new cable to thread thru, even one with a soldered tip. Remove them from the bike, and pinch the 4 white plastic retainers inside the black twist-grip - once all four are displaced inward, the twist-grip will slide off over them, and the shifter can be dis-assembled. Observe closely the position of all parts and you'll be able to re-assemble after you've put in a new cable (with patience and a few curses).
X.9: If you've a new cable with a soldered tip, it can be threaded thru pretty easily, following SRAM's instructions. If not, dis-assemble much as above.
Good luck!
#5
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Which brand? Most likely SRAM. If so, I use 7-speed SRAM MRX shifters and 9-speed SRAM X.9 shifters. Here's what I've found:
MRX: take them apart. I CANNOT get a new cable to thread thru, even one with a soldered tip. Remove them from the bike, and pinch the 4 white plastic retainers inside the black twist-grip - once all four are displaced inward, the twist-grip will slide off over them, and the shifter can be dis-assembled. Observe closely the position of all parts and you'll be able to re-assemble after you've put in a new cable (with patience and a few curses).
X.9: If you've a new cable with a soldered tip, it can be threaded thru pretty easily, following SRAM's instructions. If not, dis-assemble much as above.
Good luck!
MRX: take them apart. I CANNOT get a new cable to thread thru, even one with a soldered tip. Remove them from the bike, and pinch the 4 white plastic retainers inside the black twist-grip - once all four are displaced inward, the twist-grip will slide off over them, and the shifter can be dis-assembled. Observe closely the position of all parts and you'll be able to re-assemble after you've put in a new cable (with patience and a few curses).
X.9: If you've a new cable with a soldered tip, it can be threaded thru pretty easily, following SRAM's instructions. If not, dis-assemble much as above.
Good luck!
#7
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
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Which brand?
you peel up the grip and look ? some cheap ones we , in the shop, put something else on.
replace the grip shifter entirely.
#9
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Bikes: '04 LeMond Buenos Aires, '82 Bianchi Nuova Racing, De Rosa SLX, Bridgestone MB-1, Guerciotti TSX, Torpado Aelle, LeMond Tourmalet 853, Bridgestone Radac
I have been using the cheap Grip Shift on my commuter for years, and changing the cable is a pain. Following manufacturer directions is impossible, as far as I'm concerned.
It's been a long time, but I remember basically moving the handlebar grip out a bit and pulling the rotating shift grip straight off, away from the mount. I don't think there's any way you can get the new cable to find its path without doing that. It doesn't "auto thread" whatsoever.
But...new ones are less than $20 so that isn't so bad if a person wants to go that route.
It's been a long time, but I remember basically moving the handlebar grip out a bit and pulling the rotating shift grip straight off, away from the mount. I don't think there's any way you can get the new cable to find its path without doing that. It doesn't "auto thread" whatsoever.
But...new ones are less than $20 so that isn't so bad if a person wants to go that route.
#10
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Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Northern California
Bikes: RitcheyAscent, FisherMontare
2. I'll try to clarify the disassembly. Once you've removed the shifter, you'll see the white (?) plastic retainers within the twist-grip. They are flexible (somewhat). Bend one of them a bit inward w/a finger, and you'll see how the 4 hold the twist-grip in place via the lip on their outer end. If all 4 are bent at once, the twist-grip can be slid off. Find 4 objects to wedge between these and the grip simultaneously. I use 4 small allen wrenches, but 4 nails or 4 toothpicks, etc., would likely work. Don't slide the grip off carelessly! Slide it over those lip retainers just a bit (you can remove the toothpicks, etc., now), and observe the internals of the shifter, especially the metal springsteel that provides the indexing/snap of the shifter. Note the structure & arrangement of parts. Once you've opened the shifter adequately, the grey triangular cover can be gently pried off. Don't forget to replace this cover first as you reassemble.
It took me about as long to type this as it does to replace the cable. I've done it a few times now, and it does get easier. A pair of surgical needle holders or needle-nose pliers help w/the spring-steel, which will likely pop out at some point. Don't lose it! I've yet to wear out these MRX cheapies after many thousands of miles and several cables. Who says quality doesn't come cheap?!
#11
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From: southeastern PA - a mile west of Philadelphia
Over the last several months, I’ve swapped a few cables in several MRX GripShifters and though one in particular was somewhat difficult to pull apart, it was well worth doing so. There are videos on the Internet that accurately show how the cable is replaced.
Naturally, it’s anyone’s prerogative to simply purchase a new GripShifter if they prefer and any bicycle business benefits from such sales.
#12
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
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Some at the bottom Of the OEM build range are just a stupid PIA to replace cables .. so in The shop We throw them away and put somethong else on
same Speed count , from same company .. time is Money too so wasting it Vs just putting on a new part is a calculation ..
same Speed count , from same company .. time is Money too so wasting it Vs just putting on a new part is a calculation ..
#13
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Joined: Sep 2008
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If it's a pre-2013 MRX, it's REALLY easy. I made a bad video of myself doing one a while ago.
(not shown in video is loosening cable clamp/cutting cable)
1. Make sure the right shifter is in the 7 (and the left shifter on the 1).
2. Peel up the rubber under the number.
3. push the cable a bit to free up the head, then pull cable.
Install is reverse of removal. Sometimes cable won't thread through without removing access hatch.
#14
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I've been replacing them since 1997. I can even do the dreaded wrap-around ones, even bottom-of-the-barrel Falcon grip shifters in about 5-minutes per shifter. Approx 20 mins to do both shifters, including cable tension adjustment.
#16
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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 145
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From: Northern California
Bikes: RitcheyAscent, FisherMontare
1. the suggestion to download the SRAM instructions doesn't help. They just show how to thread a new cable thru.
2. I'll try to clarify the disassembly. Once you've removed the shifter, you'll see the white (?) plastic retainers within the twist-grip. They are flexible (somewhat). Bend one of them a bit inward w/a finger, and you'll see how the 4 hold the twist-grip in place via the lip on their outer end. If all 4 are bent at once, the twist-grip can be slid off. Find 4 objects to wedge between these and the grip simultaneously. I use 4 small allen wrenches, but 4 nails or 4 toothpicks, etc., would likely work. Don't slide the grip off carelessly! Slide it over those lip retainers just a bit (you can remove the toothpicks, etc., now), and observe the internals of the shifter, especially the metal springsteel that provides the indexing/snap of the shifter. Note the structure & arrangement of parts. Once you've opened the shifter adequately, the grey triangular cover can be gently pried off. Don't forget to replace this cover first as you reassemble.
It took me about as long to type this as it does to replace the cable. I've done it a few times now, and it does get easier. A pair of surgical needle holders or needle-nose pliers help w/the spring-steel, which will likely pop out at some point. Don't lose it! I've yet to wear out these MRX cheapies after many thousands of miles and several cables. Who says quality doesn't come cheap?!
2. I'll try to clarify the disassembly. Once you've removed the shifter, you'll see the white (?) plastic retainers within the twist-grip. They are flexible (somewhat). Bend one of them a bit inward w/a finger, and you'll see how the 4 hold the twist-grip in place via the lip on their outer end. If all 4 are bent at once, the twist-grip can be slid off. Find 4 objects to wedge between these and the grip simultaneously. I use 4 small allen wrenches, but 4 nails or 4 toothpicks, etc., would likely work. Don't slide the grip off carelessly! Slide it over those lip retainers just a bit (you can remove the toothpicks, etc., now), and observe the internals of the shifter, especially the metal springsteel that provides the indexing/snap of the shifter. Note the structure & arrangement of parts. Once you've opened the shifter adequately, the grey triangular cover can be gently pried off. Don't forget to replace this cover first as you reassemble.
It took me about as long to type this as it does to replace the cable. I've done it a few times now, and it does get easier. A pair of surgical needle holders or needle-nose pliers help w/the spring-steel, which will likely pop out at some point. Don't lose it! I've yet to wear out these MRX cheapies after many thousands of miles and several cables. Who says quality doesn't come cheap?!
#17
The space coyote lied.



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Pay careful attention to how the cable comes out. It will be coming from one direction and you need to point the new cable in that direction. Sometimes it takes a few stabs
Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 06-19-14 at 12:18 AM.
#18
I always have great luck replacing grip shift cables right up until it says, "Feed new cable through." Yeah, right.
I will usually leave the unit bolted to the bar and just yank off the twisty part. Have it in the high gear/cable all the way released. Pay attention to how the cable is run as you are pulling the twisty part off the rest of the unit. Pull the old cable out, thread the new one on like the old one was, jam it all back together while pulling the cable slightly from where it comes through the adjuster. Only thing to be careful of is the metal indexing spring--when pulling it apart, note where the spring goes so if it comes out, you know how to put it back together.
I will usually leave the unit bolted to the bar and just yank off the twisty part. Have it in the high gear/cable all the way released. Pay attention to how the cable is run as you are pulling the twisty part off the rest of the unit. Pull the old cable out, thread the new one on like the old one was, jam it all back together while pulling the cable slightly from where it comes through the adjuster. Only thing to be careful of is the metal indexing spring--when pulling it apart, note where the spring goes so if it comes out, you know how to put it back together.
#19
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