Does this look like too much leftover for spacers? I dread cutting the threaded fork but it's possible.

Probably. If it were threadless, it wouldn't matter too much but the threads are cut into a threaded fork which makes it weaker. And with what appears to be a springer fork on the bike, that's a lot of stress to ask of the fork.

I like to have the steering tube taller, even on my threaded fork , for higher bars..

I'd add spacers .. on my touring bike I used a steel spacer tube.. and fitted a bell onto it.

as long as its threaded far enough to get the headset adjusted.. then make sure your stem wedge goes in far enough to reach below the treaded section ..

long quill Nitto Technomics are perfect there.. then the stem is reinforcing the threaded portion of the fork steerer,
and the actual clamping of the stem is, as I said, below the thread cutting..

have access to someone with the right thread cutting tap you can thread the spacer itself , to abundantly re inforce that section..

I have found tall nuts that are threaded all the way through

and thin ones, that I have paired together and lock-jammed them against each other to secure the adjustment ,
then the spacer and top lock nut, above them .. are not needing to hold the adjustment..

but I worked in Bike shops and snagged parts that didn't go on bikes, sold.. and had old parts bins to dig through..

I thought about getting some lock nuts together and use as a guide to cut the tube. I figured once I back off the nut it will also fix the threads.

yea thats generally how you saw off bolts ..

your top adjustable race will do , since the lock nut has a shoulder You cannot use it.


measure thrice cut once , since it won't grow Back ..

common fork/headset thread is... 1 inch x 24tpi. which I presume is what you have

ID and so quill stem is 7/8" or 22.2mm..

( a .833" is another cruiser - Kids bike stem size... which uses different parts )

I'd use a spare cup or cone, don't wanna trash a good one. Go to the Co - op get one for a buck.

I have spare parts I can use and sadly we don't have a co-op. Will the chrome factor be an issue when I back off the nut to clean the threads?

Yes, use two threaded top races as a saw guide as fietsbob noted. I'd cut it for at least 42mm of stack even if your current headset has a smaller stack height. That way you have maximum flexibility if/when it becomes necessary to replace the headset: you can always use spacers to accommodate a shorter headset, but you're SOL if your headset is too tall for the steer tube.

And no, the chrome won't be an issue when you back off the races after cutting. You will want to de-burr the inside and outside with a file or grinder, though.

chrome may dull your hacksaw blade, but its thin and just on the surface .. & you are only doing this once..


Radiator Hose clamps also help make adequate saw guides . +1, there may be a benefit of De burring the edge , with a file,
before you unscrew the cup to push the metal back out of the cut thru the threads .

You guys think this spacer idea is worth a try? 1-1/8 tube left over from another fork. Fits snug and I'll cut it down some more to get a nice lock. I'll use two locking nuts above and below.