My old rim and spokes were completely busted and rusted but I didn't want to spend the € 100+ to get it re-spoked at my LBS. Luckily I was able to pick up a second-hand wheel for only € 50, which I felt was a pretty sweet deal.
It went on my bike just fine. Had to remove a chain link because it has a smaller sprocket but that was about it.
Then it came to adjust the gears. That's when I noticed something was not quite right. There was no way to get the red marks lined up in fourth gear like they should. Even in first, the marks on the cassette joint pulley are way off, too far to the front. Comparing it to the old hub I noticed that the pulley and bracket are completely misaligned. So I took the wheel out, removed the cassette joint fixing ring, and tried to realign it but the only way it will go on so it can be fixed with the ring is the wrong way! I tried switching out the cassette joint from the old hub but it has the same problem. The cassette joint from the new wheel goes fine on the old hub. Tried rotating 180 degrees but that doesn't make a difference. So the cassette joint is not the problem, there is some issue with my new hub. I just don't know what it might be or how to fix it.
Here are some photo's of the wrong and right way.

Both cassette joints misaligned on the new hub





The right way on the old hub

-Did you use the anti-rotation spacers that came with your original wheel, or the ones that were on the replacement (or any at all)? They are color coded and specific to the angle of your dropouts, so using the wrong ones will misalign your shifting cassette. Alignment is made by locking the hub into the dropouts at the correct angle, not changing the way the cassette is mounted (it only operates correctly one way, as you have found out).
-Also, the sprockets are replaceable (held in place with circlips). In other words, you could have taken the sprocket off your old hub and put it on your newer hub, which would have retained the same gear ratios and the same length chain.

Your attached photos won't open for me so I can't see the problem. The anti rotation washers are also left/right specific. make sure you didn't mix them up.
Also ensure the cable is routed correctly around the cassette joint spool.

I've re-upped the pictures, hope it's clearer now.

Yes, I use the anti-rotation washers from the original wheel. The problem isn't that the cassette is misaligned to the frame/chain stay.

My problem is that the two parts of the cassette, the pulley and the bracket, do not line up the way they should. The pulley seems to be in the position of 6th gear, leaving very little travel, instead of the completely relaxed position it should be in.
If I line up the yellow dots, the pulley will not fit the driver like it should, and I cannot get the fixing ring on when it's like that.

Yes I found that out afterwards
I might do it later but I need to get this sorted first. Otherwise I might have to resort to building a new wheel, with my old hub (and sprocket) and the rim and spokes from the new one.

bump bump

I know this is ancient thread but for someone new who might have same issue. I had same(ish) issue and could not figure out whats going on. My mistaje was that i loosened the drive side bolt and at the same time the driver plate jumped out of position. When i assembled the igh i noticed that the cassette joint units dots didnt line up and driver plate turned freely aprox half a turn.. i just needed to loosen the drive side bolt remove lock and stop washers and reseat driver plate.

How about cleaning your damn IGH hubs?? LOL Talk about lazy.
Mine is a 2012 SA 5w, still looks like new. So is the front dyno that did 2 tours and did get muddy in China.