Problem with setting up rear derailleur
06-30-14 | 07:36 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,030
Likes: 2
From: Canada
Bikes: Maxim, Rocky Mountain, Argon 18, Cervelo S2 Team
Problem with setting up rear derailleur
Ok components I have are Shimano XT
bike is 2011 Rocky Mountain element
I just did a big race. And my gears are a bit messed up.
I can't get gears down to the smaller last 2 gears.
When I make adjustments in which chain gets in those gears. I lose in upper shifting and can't get to my lowest/easiest gear. I tried turning and fine turing all screws.
I even took off cable and put it back on, but still problems.
What is one way to start over? start fresh or like a way to reset the gear and adjustments so i can start over?
this is getting stupid
thanks all
last many times idid this, was able to get it done bang on
not this time
thanks
bike is 2011 Rocky Mountain element
I just did a big race. And my gears are a bit messed up.
I can't get gears down to the smaller last 2 gears.
When I make adjustments in which chain gets in those gears. I lose in upper shifting and can't get to my lowest/easiest gear. I tried turning and fine turing all screws.
I even took off cable and put it back on, but still problems.
What is one way to start over? start fresh or like a way to reset the gear and adjustments so i can start over?
this is getting stupid
thanks all
last many times idid this, was able to get it done bang on
not this time
thanks
06-30-14 | 08:27 PM
#2
happy bike wishes
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 265
Likes: 0
I'm going to say this as inoffensively as I can, but you have a high-end bike, and I'm not sure it's a good idea to be messing with it until you have a better idea of what you're doing.
Start reading Sheldon Brown and Park Tool until you know them forwards and backwards.
Is your derailer hanger straight? You won't get a perfect setup if it it's significantly off.
Detach the cable from the derailer entirely, after making close note of how it needs to be reattached. After you turn the crank, the derailer will naturally spring towards the highest gear (smallest sprocket). Check your high-limit screw setting - is the derailer pulley comfortably underneath and centered under this gear?
With the cable still detached, move the derailer through its range of motion by hand. While cranking the pedal with one hand, simply move the derailer laterally on its pivot point with the other hand. Does the derailer move freely back and forth? Put a drop of oil (non-gummy, so no 3-in-1, and many use Tri-Flow) on the derailer pivot points and on each of the screws. While cranking the pedals, push the derailer far inside, towards the biggest sprocket. This is how you set your low-limit screw. The derailer needs to be able to just be comfortably able to get on that big ring without falling off the inside of it, towards the wheel hub.
Let the derailer rest on the outside again. Put your shifter in the highest gear and reattach the cable. While cranking, shift "manually" by pulling an exposed part of the cable like a bowstring. Does the derailer move smoothly through its range of motion? If not, there is friction somewhere in the lever-housing-derailer system. Do the WheeliePete method to lubricate your shift cable. Friction is the enemy. If that doesn't work, you may have a more serious friction issue, like housing that is too nasty on the inside.
If everything is good up to this point, it's a matter of adjusting the indexing of the shifting with the lever. You can find various tutorials on YouTube by typing adjust rear derailleur or the like.
Start reading Sheldon Brown and Park Tool until you know them forwards and backwards.
Is your derailer hanger straight? You won't get a perfect setup if it it's significantly off.
Detach the cable from the derailer entirely, after making close note of how it needs to be reattached. After you turn the crank, the derailer will naturally spring towards the highest gear (smallest sprocket). Check your high-limit screw setting - is the derailer pulley comfortably underneath and centered under this gear?
With the cable still detached, move the derailer through its range of motion by hand. While cranking the pedal with one hand, simply move the derailer laterally on its pivot point with the other hand. Does the derailer move freely back and forth? Put a drop of oil (non-gummy, so no 3-in-1, and many use Tri-Flow) on the derailer pivot points and on each of the screws. While cranking the pedals, push the derailer far inside, towards the biggest sprocket. This is how you set your low-limit screw. The derailer needs to be able to just be comfortably able to get on that big ring without falling off the inside of it, towards the wheel hub.
Let the derailer rest on the outside again. Put your shifter in the highest gear and reattach the cable. While cranking, shift "manually" by pulling an exposed part of the cable like a bowstring. Does the derailer move smoothly through its range of motion? If not, there is friction somewhere in the lever-housing-derailer system. Do the WheeliePete method to lubricate your shift cable. Friction is the enemy. If that doesn't work, you may have a more serious friction issue, like housing that is too nasty on the inside.
If everything is good up to this point, it's a matter of adjusting the indexing of the shifting with the lever. You can find various tutorials on YouTube by typing adjust rear derailleur or the like.
