Headsets
07-19-14 | 02:29 AM
#1
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Headsets
Hi,
Wonder if someone can help.
I recently purchased a vintage Raleigh bike to strip, re paint, upgrade a few components and re build.
As this would be my first time to build a bike, In the process of taking everything off the bike I made notes of locations etc. the old headset was completely rusted, so i bought a nice new shinny one. When I opened the box I noticed that the depth of one cup is slightly smaller than the other. As u can guess I didn't notice this when stripping the bike. And the old headset is the same. Can someone advise if there is a specific way the cups need to be. Ie bigger one on top, smaller one on bottom, or vise versa
Wonder if someone can help.
I recently purchased a vintage Raleigh bike to strip, re paint, upgrade a few components and re build.
As this would be my first time to build a bike, In the process of taking everything off the bike I made notes of locations etc. the old headset was completely rusted, so i bought a nice new shinny one. When I opened the box I noticed that the depth of one cup is slightly smaller than the other. As u can guess I didn't notice this when stripping the bike. And the old headset is the same. Can someone advise if there is a specific way the cups need to be. Ie bigger one on top, smaller one on bottom, or vise versa
07-19-14 | 03:53 AM
#2
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Joined: Mar 2008
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It's all in the fit. But usually the smaller goes on top so that it can be overhung by what's technically the cone.
So if all else fails, start with the identifiable bits - like the crown race - to see which parts goes together.
So if all else fails, start with the identifiable bits - like the crown race - to see which parts goes together.
07-19-14 | 11:23 AM
#3
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Think of cones and cups.
Most bicycle bearings are "angular bearings" using a conical part, and a cup shaped part with the balls trapped between. Now look at your headset. There's only one crown race (probably still on the fork). It has to mate with a cup, usually with an extending skirt coming around the side to enclose it.
Like wise, there's only one threaded bearing race for your fork. Depending on the headset, it might be a cone or a cup (both designs exist), but it needs to mate with a top of frame bearing of the opposite design. If the threaded race is a cone, there's usually a short skirt around the outside which will fir around the upper frame cup as a weather shield.
I hope that helped.
Most bicycle bearings are "angular bearings" using a conical part, and a cup shaped part with the balls trapped between. Now look at your headset. There's only one crown race (probably still on the fork). It has to mate with a cup, usually with an extending skirt coming around the side to enclose it.
Like wise, there's only one threaded bearing race for your fork. Depending on the headset, it might be a cone or a cup (both designs exist), but it needs to mate with a top of frame bearing of the opposite design. If the threaded race is a cone, there's usually a short skirt around the outside which will fir around the upper frame cup as a weather shield.
I hope that helped.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
07-19-14 | 11:30 AM
#4
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From: Colorado
Bikes: '91 Mtn Tek Vertical, '74 Raleigh Sports, '72 Raleigh Twenty, '84 Univega Gran Turismo, '09 Surly Karate Monkey, '92 Burley Rock-n-Roll, '86 Miyata 310, '76 Raleigh Shopper
If it's an old Raleigh, be sure the threads on the new headset are correct before trying to install it. Most old Raleighs use 26 threads/inch, where standard headsets are 24 threads/inch. The new headset will start to spin on, but if it begins to bind AT ALL, don't go any further or you'll tear up the threads.
07-19-14 | 11:52 AM
#5
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
+1,000,000
I overlooked that you mentioned buying new, and posted based on the assumption that you were simply reinsstalling the original.
Old Raleighs used a 26tpi headset, most headsets sold today are 24tpi. read the box to know what you bought, and as mentioned, if it threads 2-3 turns then stiffens up YOU HAVE THE WRONG THREAD.
I overlooked that you mentioned buying new, and posted based on the assumption that you were simply reinsstalling the original.
Old Raleighs used a 26tpi headset, most headsets sold today are 24tpi. read the box to know what you bought, and as mentioned, if it threads 2-3 turns then stiffens up YOU HAVE THE WRONG THREAD.
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