wide range cassette or compact crank?
#1
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wide range cassette or compact crank?
I'm helping a lady who is having some issues climbing.
She has a 1997 Schwinn Peloton, nice older bike, 853 frame, 9 speed Ultegra. It has a 53/38 Ultegra crank and a 12/27 Sram cassette. She really struggles in the hills.
As I see it, options are to go to a compact crank or Harris Cyclery has an interesting 9 speed 13/30 cassette:
Harris Custom Century Special 13-30 9-speed Cassette - Harris Cyclery bicycle shop - West Newton, Massachusetts
I'm thinking that a compact crank makes more sense, but would love to hear other reasoned opinions.
dave s
She has a 1997 Schwinn Peloton, nice older bike, 853 frame, 9 speed Ultegra. It has a 53/38 Ultegra crank and a 12/27 Sram cassette. She really struggles in the hills.
As I see it, options are to go to a compact crank or Harris Cyclery has an interesting 9 speed 13/30 cassette:
Harris Custom Century Special 13-30 9-speed Cassette - Harris Cyclery bicycle shop - West Newton, Massachusetts
I'm thinking that a compact crank makes more sense, but would love to hear other reasoned opinions.
dave s
#2
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I would recommend a triple with a 24t small ring. Use this site to compare gear inches. https://www.jbarrm.com/cgi-bin/c42strt.cgi
#3
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From: Mountain View, CA USA and Golden, CO USA
Bikes: 97 Litespeed, 50-39-30x13-26 10 cogs, Campagnolo Ultrashift, retroreflective rims on SON28/PowerTap hubs
#4
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From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
Yes, agree, going to 34 tooth chainring OR a 30 tooth large rear cog is not enough of a difference - only 10% lower gear. There is no inexpensive solution for that bike. An even larger cassette (13-34 is available) will require a change in derailleur and a new chain as well. A triple will require a new crankset, front derailleur, rear derailleur and chain.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 09-17-14 at 09:52 AM.
#5
If she struggles with a 38/27 gear, she's going to need to invest a bit money to get something lower. I agree with the triple suggestions. That means she'll need a new bottom bracket, crankset, front derailleur, and long-cage rear derailleur. Swapping out for a triple is usually more expensive than most people expect.
edit: No new shifter needed, apparently. 9-speed Ultegra fronts work with double or triple.
edit: No new shifter needed, apparently. 9-speed Ultegra fronts work with double or triple.
Last edited by Torchy McFlux; 09-17-14 at 02:05 PM.
#6
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Just get a Sora RD-3500-GS and an 11-32 cassette:
Shimano 9 Spd Deore HG50 Cassette, Cassettes, CASSETTES MTB
Shimano Sora 3500 9 Speed Rear Derailleur, DERAILLEURS REAR
Should be doable for under $50 in parts, unless a new chain is needed in which case it's probably under $60 total.
If that's not good enough, then go to a compact crankset. Changing the shifters in order to get a triple is not going to be necessary, especially if a 34-tooth cassette can fit under the Sora RD.
Shimano 9 Spd Deore HG50 Cassette, Cassettes, CASSETTES MTB
Shimano Sora 3500 9 Speed Rear Derailleur, DERAILLEURS REAR
Should be doable for under $50 in parts, unless a new chain is needed in which case it's probably under $60 total.
If that's not good enough, then go to a compact crankset. Changing the shifters in order to get a triple is not going to be necessary, especially if a 34-tooth cassette can fit under the Sora RD.
#8
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
I choose chainring sizes according to what sprockets I use most on the cassette. Most cassettes have a sweet spot near the outer middle where the steps start getting larger. So I prefer to concentrate my flat ground cruising use there where the steps are smallest. These are also the combinations where the chain line is straighest which is a secondary benefit.
If I've dialed it in right I'll be riding the 3rd and 4th sprockets the most, leaving 2 higher gears for shallow downslopes, tailwinds or when I'm "in the zone", ant the rest of the cassette and inner ring for climbing. The climbing consideration determines the range of the cassette so my inner ring and low gear sprocket are adequate for whatever I expect (or I might add a "bailout" granny, for those rare hills beyond what I usually encounter).
If I've dialed it in right I'll be riding the 3rd and 4th sprockets the most, leaving 2 higher gears for shallow downslopes, tailwinds or when I'm "in the zone", ant the rest of the cassette and inner ring for climbing. The climbing consideration determines the range of the cassette so my inner ring and low gear sprocket are adequate for whatever I expect (or I might add a "bailout" granny, for those rare hills beyond what I usually encounter).
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#9
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Changing to a triple (low gear 30:27):
Triple crank
new bottom bracket
new long-cage rear derailleur
new left shifter (if the existing one is a double)
new chain
new triple front derailleur
Changing to a compact double (low gear 34:32, maybe 34:34):
New crank
new MTB derailleur
new cassette
new chain
Cheapest option- just a new cassette and rear der (38:34, which is about the same as 30:27):
New MTB rear derailleur
new cassette
new chain
If it were my bike, I'd do the third option, then add a compact crank if it's still not low enough.
Triple crank
new bottom bracket
new long-cage rear derailleur
new left shifter (if the existing one is a double)
new chain
new triple front derailleur
Changing to a compact double (low gear 34:32, maybe 34:34):
New crank
new MTB derailleur
new cassette
new chain
Cheapest option- just a new cassette and rear der (38:34, which is about the same as 30:27):
New MTB rear derailleur
new cassette
new chain
If it were my bike, I'd do the third option, then add a compact crank if it's still not low enough.
#12
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From: Pearland, Texas
Bikes: Cannondale, Trek, Raleigh, Santana
dave s, Because the Ultegra 6500 group used a short production span BB model, no matter what compact crank set you find, it'll most likely require a new BB just as a triple would. I thought there was a compact that used the Octalink V1 BB, but looks like I was wrong as I can't find one now.
Find a something-34T cassette and a XT RD, same level as Ultegra, to modify the rear. A new chain is also probably required.
Brad
Find a something-34T cassette and a XT RD, same level as Ultegra, to modify the rear. A new chain is also probably required.
Brad
#13
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From: Mountain View, CA USA and Golden, CO USA
Bikes: 97 Litespeed, 50-39-30x13-26 10 cogs, Campagnolo Ultrashift, retroreflective rims on SON28/PowerTap hubs
Or 24:27, like 34x38 which does not exist.
Or to match the low of 38x30 from 13-14-15-17-19-21-24-27-30 you could run 30:23 from 13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23
Cost for the change depends on what the used parts sell for if they don't end up on a shelf in the garage.
Or to match the low of 38x30 from 13-14-15-17-19-21-24-27-30 you could run 30:23 from 13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23
Cost for the change depends on what the used parts sell for if they don't end up on a shelf in the garage.
#15
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and if we go compact I have no issue with new BB.
thjx for the suggestions
dave s
#16
dave s, Because the Ultegra 6500 group used a short production span BB model, no matter what compact crank set you find, it'll most likely require a new BB just as a triple would. I thought there was a compact that used the Octalink V1 BB, but looks like I was wrong as I can't find one now.
Find a something-34T cassette and a XT RD, same level as Ultegra, to modify the rear. A new chain is also probably required.
Brad
Find a something-34T cassette and a XT RD, same level as Ultegra, to modify the rear. A new chain is also probably required.
Brad
+1
Save money & headaches.
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