Hi

I have a question in regards to timing. What I mean by that is this.

I had to replace 6 spokes on my rear wheel because my chain jumped of the casset to the inside and scratched up a few spokes. I m leaving for a road trip with a lot of riding and I didn't want any spokes breaking while I was away from home.

So I replaced them all at the same time. I then tightened them to pitch like tuning my guitars. Then I started truing up the side to side motion (fish tailing). Once I had a good straight rim I started truing the hop (pourposeing)sp? I noticed that when I loosened up the spokes to let the rim move outward(away from the hubs) it didn't respond near as well as when I tightened other places to bring it in.

So is this the proper way to do it, or should I have started thinking about up/down when I started getting closer to finishing the side to side motion?

I am within 1/16" side to side but not quite as good in/out. Will the part that needs to move outward from the hub move over time? Should I tighten up everything else to match? Af6ter I finished I pinched the spokes together ( like closing pliers) to set them. What else could I have done to make them drift/set, ( I don't know your language in bike speak).

Lastly my drive side has more tension than does the opposite. Is that normal?

Thanks for your input

Ryan

As long as the wheel was round before you started you should be able to get it back to there. Spokes can't push, so of course after a certain point loosening spokes does not result in the rim being further away from the hub. Go to the opposite side and see if that's a high spot, and if so work on that first. if not then tighten everything but the low spot 1/4 turn at a time. When working on round always work on at least 4 spokes at a time. Keep in mind that each spoke interacts with all the others and the rim, so what you do in one place affects others. It's normal for the drive side to be tighter, necessary to pull the rim to the center of the frame in the rear - it's called dishing.

Also, when truing side to side always do so in pairs/fours, etc, tightening and loosening, so as to not change the roundness. If you only tighten you will not only pull the rim to one side but will also pull the rim in, for example.

So did I get the sequence right?

It's a matter of back and forth normally. Again, everything in a laced wheel is related. If you work only on truing until it's perfect it may be out of round, but you can't really work just on round without the rim being true enough to be over the indicators and not tilting from side to side.

A new, unstressed rim is ideally already perfectly true and round - and within manufacturing tolerances it basically is. You don't really true a rim, you true a wheel, and you do so by adjusting the tension and effective length of spokes so that they hold the rim at all points so that it is at a perfect right angle to the hub axle (true) so that all points on the edge of the rim are the same distance from the center of the axle (round) and so that the rim will run in the center of the bike frame (dish).https://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/truing.html

Sheldon Brown has a wheel building/truing article in which the procedure in a nutshell and your vernacular is to work on whichever condition is worse...If the fishtail is worse then work on that first, then when the porpoising is worse work on that. In between you stress-relief (pinch the spokes, flex the wheel, or whichever method you use) as this will often change fishtail and porpoise. You sort of sneak up on a true wheel, and there are some different techniques in the article when you get close to true.

The dish is also something to check.