26" mtb used for light touring, on/off road, max 25 pounds in rear bags.

currently have triple front (deore): 22-32-44
9-speed rear: 11-13-15-17-20-23-28-30-34

steep grades use inner ring with 23-30-34
reg'lar riding use middle ring with 15------30
downhill/tailwind outer ring with 13-15-17

gear chart sez i'm using mostly
inner 17-20 inches
middle 28-55 inches
outer 67-88 inches

gots to get some new rings, already picked up a new middle 32T, but what
about the big ring? i've never used the 11T cog, so why buy another 44T
with a 104" top end?

not much selection available here, i can find a 42T with a potentially rarely
usable 99", but probably wind up using the 13T for 84". same-same.

i can also find a 38T middle ring. that would give me a 58-90" range for
the four baby cogs....much more useful for my riding.

QUESTION: how about using a 38T middle ring, flipped over for use on the
outer position? do the ramps & pins & kibbles & bits make it completely
unshiftable? gives me a 22-32-38 with 11-34 9spd.

I would change the rear cassette and eliminate the 11 & 12 cog: Harris Custom Cyclotouriste 13 13-34 9-speed Cassette - Harris Cyclery bicycle shop - West Newton, Massachusetts

It is unfortunate that one would have to spend that much money because manufacturers went to 11 and 12 tooth cogs as OEM. It's great for cassette and chain sales, though.

ouch! $128 for a cassette? when i can find chainrings for under $10?

i've already bought a new 11-34, HG-50-9, but checking online, i can get
an ALIVIO CSHG40-9 12-36 for $25.

with a 42 outer ring, that would give me a slightly better 16" low gear,
and a 91" top gear. close enough!

so 11-34 for everyday use, 12-36 on the touring wheel.

how about alivio cassette quality?

The problem I see with your proposed 38/32/22 chainrings is that the outer two rings don't have enough tooth difference to let the front derailleur work properly. Almost all current front derailleurs require a 10 tooth or more difference for the inner cage plate to clear the middle ring when in the big ring unless the derailleur is installed way too far above the outer ring. A 42/32/22 should be OK.

I use a 22-32-36 on my hybrid and a 22-32-38 on my "grocery getter"


Note how high the FDER has to sit, else it doesn't clear the 32T ring. The angle of the picture exaggerates it somewhat, but it's still gawdawful ugly.
It needs a bit of "help" to get to the biggest ring. The 22-32-38 shifts noticeably better.

I used a 144 pcd Campag Grand Sport 52 as a middle on a 52-36 double , but
... no shift ramps or overshift pin to go behind the crank arm, They're

symmetrical other than the counter bore shoulder to let the chain ring bolt settle in, more flush

now , like a Stainless Surly will flip over and wear 2X as long.. chainring bolt shoulder just sits outside the flat piece of steel.

I'm fine friction shifting all sorts of non pinned and ramped chain rings., you use the overshift ,and recenter the FD cage over the chain, Skill,

I've used for well over 40 years. JFK was Breathing normally, back then.

Back in the mid-80's I had a 46/42/26 half-step+granny crank but the front derailleur was a Sun Tour ARX with a very shallow inner cage plate. This was before both indexing and enhanced chainring ramps, etc and shifting was mediocre but so was all front shifting in those days.

Yes, I was going to first recommend the 12-36, but the 13-34 deserves a mention. I use a 48, 36 & 22 and a 12-27 cassette on my severe duty bike. Every cog on the cassette is used while riding on the 36 chaining. I need to be going uphill at less than 10 mph or over 25 mph to use the smallest and biggest chainring;

Just as an aside, have you tried a "road" or CX70 FD, Bill? Sure the lower contour of the cage will be totally wrong for such small chainrings, but it might let you set the FD lower for better shifting.

I only use the big ring on the hybrid a couple times/year.
I have picked up an FD-190 which is designed for an 18T total spread and 8T between the 2 larger rings.
No rush to put it on until it warms up.
On my grocery getter, the only time I used the large ring is when I installed it.

That unit sounds promising. Keep us posted on how it works out.

Well, I bought it almost 3 months ago, had the bike stolen and then "ransomed" back for $100, minus everything that attached to the bar.
I replaced the former EF-51 shifters with EF-65.
It actually shifts the front and rear better for some reason???

ah, there's the rub. dang shifter pods. i miss my suntour friction thumbshifters.

Your cluster, Just losing the 11 and the 30, 7 speed (freewheels ) have worked fine . Sun tour, friction, bar ends..

Shimano Pods can take downtube lever kits .. (9 speeds will take a steady hand being more tightly packed )