Used a pipe-cutter on a seat post, now the cut end is flared. Tool to fix this?
11-19-14 | 11:24 AM
#1
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Used a pipe-cutter on a seat post, now the cut end is flared. Tool to fix this?
Noob problem: I used a small pipe-cutter to shorten a seat post, and the cut end is now flared enough that it will not fit in the seat tube.
1. Is there a tool I can buy that will fix this, while giving the cut end a smoother edge?
2. Is a hacksaw the correct DIY tool for this job? (short of using an expensive power tool)
Thanks
1. Is there a tool I can buy that will fix this, while giving the cut end a smoother edge?
2. Is a hacksaw the correct DIY tool for this job? (short of using an expensive power tool)
Thanks
11-19-14 | 12:46 PM
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From: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
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Or a sanding block (piece of wood & sandpaper)
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11-19-14 | 07:44 PM
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Right. The main issue with a hacksaw is that without a technique for ensuring a straight cut, you are likely not to get one.
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11-19-14 | 08:17 PM
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Straightness doesn't matter too much for a seatpost. Steerer tubes should be pretty close to straight.
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11-19-14 | 08:18 PM
#9
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To the OP: A file will do a good job of removing the flair and, in fact, you should continue to file until you form an inward bevel at the cut end. That will make installing the seat post even easier.
11-19-14 | 08:38 PM
#10
rebmeM roineS
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Unlike a steerer, the bottom of a seat post doesn't have to be cut at exactly a right angle so cutting it by eye is adequate. A perfectly straight cut may be desirable for your own satisfaction but the seat post will work just fine without it.
To the OP: A file will do a good job of removing the flair and, in fact, you should continue to file until you form an inward bevel at the cut end. That will make installing the seat post even easier.
To the OP: A file will do a good job of removing the flair and, in fact, you should continue to file until you form an inward bevel at the cut end. That will make installing the seat post even easier.
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11-19-14 | 08:43 PM
#11
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Yeah, no question a straight cut is more satisfying even if nobody but the owner knows it's there. I use a steerer cutting guide to shorten seat posts and would certainly use one to shorten a handlebar but neither application absolutely requires it.
11-20-14 | 06:34 AM
#12
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You can use one or two worm-drive hose clamp(s) as a saw guide; I use two as protection in case the saw jumps out of the slot. I clean up the cut edge with a belt/disc sander and clean up the ID (unnecessary but OCD-compliant) with a rat-tail file.
