10 speed to 2x10 shifting
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10 speed to 2x10 shifting
I've gathered most of the parts I need to convert my old motobecane 10 speed to a 10 speed double. I have wheels, a beautiful TA crankset I scored for $25 set up with 9/10 speed spacing on the chainrings, the cassette. I still need a chain and I thought I needed shifters and at least the rear dérailleur, but I did some research and now I beleive I can get by with what I have. Is it feasible to use my old suntour RD and friction shifters on the new cassette? I assume it has enough travel, it's not much different in width from the 5spd freewheel. I have a line on a cheap 9 speed cassette too, if the slightly bigger gap between cogs is beneficial for shift feel. I'd like to upgrade to bar end shifters at some point, possibly indexed shifting at the same time, but for now if I can make it work Id like to get the extra gears on there. Anyone have experience with this?
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I'm still using my old style Campy friction downtube shifters (the kind with the dots around the edges).
Shimano Ultegra 6500 RD
Shimano 9spd Cassette.
I am essentially using 100% of the shift lever range, from 100% forward to 100% back, and don't think I could squeeze out much more cable. I do have some troubles dropping down into the smallest sprocket as it is.
Anyway, I find the shifting for the 9S is very good. In fact, I think it is easier to shift 9s than 5s. In particular, there is always a cog where one needs it, so I never "grind" on the back. Depending on the derailleur there is some flex in the jockey wheels to help with finding the gears.
Looking at the shift ratio tables:
Bicycles/Maintenance and Repair/Gear-changing Dimensions - Wikibooks, open books for an open world
The shift ratio on the standard Shimano is 1.7, and the old Dura Ace (8 spd?) is 1.9. Campy is 1.4 or 1.5.
I think what that means is that if I was using a Campy shifter and a Campy RD, I would run out of shifter range, and not get the whole range of shifting.
I think the Shimano 9 spd is also narrower than the Campy 9 spd, to also aid with shifter range.
The bottom line is that I'm very happy with the 9spd using my old campy friction shifters.
I assume 10 spd would also shift fine, if I have enough dynamic range.
11 spd would require something creative like the Jtech Shiftmate to increase the range of pull from the levers.
Using a Campy RD may also require the Shiftmate.
I have not experience with your specific config. I'm not sure why companies need so many "new" derailleurs. Perhaps you'd have to grind down the stops on your derailleur or something.
Shimano Ultegra 6500 RD
Shimano 9spd Cassette.
I am essentially using 100% of the shift lever range, from 100% forward to 100% back, and don't think I could squeeze out much more cable. I do have some troubles dropping down into the smallest sprocket as it is.
Anyway, I find the shifting for the 9S is very good. In fact, I think it is easier to shift 9s than 5s. In particular, there is always a cog where one needs it, so I never "grind" on the back. Depending on the derailleur there is some flex in the jockey wheels to help with finding the gears.
Looking at the shift ratio tables:
Bicycles/Maintenance and Repair/Gear-changing Dimensions - Wikibooks, open books for an open world
The shift ratio on the standard Shimano is 1.7, and the old Dura Ace (8 spd?) is 1.9. Campy is 1.4 or 1.5.
I think what that means is that if I was using a Campy shifter and a Campy RD, I would run out of shifter range, and not get the whole range of shifting.
I think the Shimano 9 spd is also narrower than the Campy 9 spd, to also aid with shifter range.
The bottom line is that I'm very happy with the 9spd using my old campy friction shifters.
I assume 10 spd would also shift fine, if I have enough dynamic range.
11 spd would require something creative like the Jtech Shiftmate to increase the range of pull from the levers.
Using a Campy RD may also require the Shiftmate.
I have not experience with your specific config. I'm not sure why companies need so many "new" derailleurs. Perhaps you'd have to grind down the stops on your derailleur or something.
#5
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Friction shifting "accuracy" has a lot to do with the ergonomics of your hand & shifter.
As I went from 7 to 8 to 9 speed on my Rockhopper (with friction thumb shifters) my shifting got more precise.
At the time, it was my only bike.
When I got a 2nd bike with trigger shifters, my friction shifting skills went down the tube big time. I ended up putting trigger shifters on the Rockhopper after a short time.
I expect you'd have enough "range", but you'll probably have to have the cable adjustment dialed in quite closely to utilize the full travel of your shift lever.
As I went from 7 to 8 to 9 speed on my Rockhopper (with friction thumb shifters) my shifting got more precise.
At the time, it was my only bike.
When I got a 2nd bike with trigger shifters, my friction shifting skills went down the tube big time. I ended up putting trigger shifters on the Rockhopper after a short time.
I expect you'd have enough "range", but you'll probably have to have the cable adjustment dialed in quite closely to utilize the full travel of your shift lever.
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thanks for the replies, and bikemig, I had already looked through that thread but I hadnt seen where anyone mentioned specifically that they had used the stock RD from the original 5 speed rear setup. As I said before, I'd most likely be upgrading the RD at some point down the road, but I hate seeing so many good parts sitting in my garage. I guess the only way to find out what works and doesnt work for me is to just try it. I can always put it back.
#7
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the original 5 speed rear setup
Evolution was> 5 standard (120mm), +1=6, 7 was made to fit in 6 speed (126mm), and then 8th was added to 7.
Frame would Be a 120 rear .. the new stuff is requiring a 130 Dropout spread ..
I reccomend buying a New Bike . to get all the bells and whistles you Now want.
turn the old one into a 1 speed .. with a 1 speed freewheel .. on the Hub .[ or fit an Internal gear Hub in a new wheel] ..
there can be a de dishing to move the hub over to be in the center of the dropout.. then screw on a single speedfreewhel
Last edited by fietsbob; 12-12-14 at 02:18 PM.
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What are you planning to use for a rear hub? 10-speed cassettes require a different hub and different dropout spacing than a 5-speed freewheel.
I have a bike that uses Suntour friction barcons and a Shimano 9-speed cassette. It shifts perfectly but does require a somewhat subtle touch. Since 10-speed spacing is quite similar to 9-speed spacing, I doubt you'd have any issues with cable pull requirements.
I have a bike that uses Suntour friction barcons and a Shimano 9-speed cassette. It shifts perfectly but does require a somewhat subtle touch. Since 10-speed spacing is quite similar to 9-speed spacing, I doubt you'd have any issues with cable pull requirements.
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Last edited by Retro Grouch; 12-12-14 at 10:56 AM.
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I have several wheels, all shimano freehubs. I have a 9/10 speed, and another I forget what it is, also one with a 7 speed hyper glide, but I'd need to replace basically all the spokes on that one. I understand buying a new bike is easier, but that's not what I want. I really enjoy the feel of my bike and I already have most of what I need, so a completely new bike really isn't cost effective anyway. It's a steel frame so spreading the dropouts to fit the wider hub isn't a big deal
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