Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Filling the gap between a brake "nut" and front fork

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Filling the gap between a brake "nut" and front fork

Old 03-03-15 | 10:40 AM
  #1  
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 507
Likes: 68
From: Chicago

Bikes: 1984 Trek 770

Filling the gap between a brake "nut" and front fork

Hi all, I have a chinese carbon fork that is drilled such that the brake does not sit flush with the fork surface. I am currently using two spherical washers to get even contact between two, but am wondering if there is a better solution that doesn't require me torquing the recessed nut really hard to prevent rotation at the bolt. I did some Googling and found out about beveled washers, but am not sure if they will work better than what I have now, since I don't even know if they are the correct angle. Does anyone else have experience with this problem?

Thanks!




Last edited by upthywazzoo; 03-03-15 at 11:29 AM. Reason: Added images
upthywazzoo is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 10:48 AM
  #2  
Banned
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast

Bikes: 8

Toothy star washers, to Bite into the fork front surface, & back of the brake itself, then what happens with the nut on the other side matters less.

No clue about your fork choice, in specifics , perhaps that was not the best.

Last edited by fietsbob; 03-03-15 at 10:53 AM.
fietsbob is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 10:57 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
Titanium Club Membership
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

You didn't describe the specific issue. If the fork crown has a flat face the brake should sit squarely and flat on it. OTOH- some (mostly older) forks have curved faces and so need a flat to curved washer to match the shapes correctly.

Offhand, I don't know of any curved face carbon forks, and would be a bit surprised if anybody made one. So the brake hole should be square to the flat face and brake should sit squarely against it without help. You certainly wouldn't want anything like wedges since that will force the brake to the side and cause other issues. If the face is basically flat, and square, but not flat enough, you can return it as defective or correct it. Buy a stainless steel flat washer. Put some body filler on it and put it on the brake bolt filler side to the fork. Tighten to near riding spec, allow it to cure completely, then loosen, center and retighten the brake and you'll be good to go.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 11:01 AM
  #4  
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
Senior Member
Titanium Club Membership
10 Anniversary
 
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 19,373
Likes: 5,515
From: Rochester, NY

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Why, exactly, won't the brake's back side not sit flush with the crown? Interference with a bearing race? Shaping of the crown/blades? This is where a photo really helps us understand the details.

Most current brakes are supplied with a toothed anti rotation washer and/or a smooth spacer or two. The brake manufacturer doesn't know which fork their brake is going on. Some forks come with the same and/or mounting bolt nuts of different lengths to accommodate their specific dimensions.

As you seem to grasp, the need for a well secured ft brake and it's not pivoting freely about is a strong one. Andy.
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 11:09 AM
  #5  
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 507
Likes: 68
From: Chicago

Bikes: 1984 Trek 770

Ah. I knew I forgot something. Pictures! Sorry about about that.




Last edited by upthywazzoo; 03-03-15 at 11:29 AM.
upthywazzoo is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 11:14 AM
  #6  
Banned
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast

Bikes: 8

IDK what you wish it were... The Brake Bolt holes are drilled Perpendicular to the steering tube, then you adjust the brake pads to hit the rim
fietsbob is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 11:16 AM
  #7  
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 507
Likes: 68
From: Chicago

Bikes: 1984 Trek 770

Originally Posted by fietsbob
IDK what you wish it were... The Brake Bolt holes are drilled Perpendicular to the steering tube, then you adjust the brake pads to hit the rim
You are correct; the brake bolt hole IS drilled perpendicular to the steer tube--but the surface of the fork itself is not perpendicular to that drilling.
upthywazzoo is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 11:22 AM
  #8  
Banned
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast

Bikes: 8

File a flat spot in the front of the fork then . or scarf a rough surface and bond a filed wedge washer down solid with more Epoxy.

Last edited by fietsbob; 03-03-15 at 11:25 AM.
fietsbob is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 11:30 AM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 4
From: Above ground, Walnut Creek, Ca

Bikes: 8 ss bikes, 1 5-speed touring bike

you might try a plastic or nylon washer (ACE is the place ), it may deform enough to help. maybe cut it in half and apply a file to it. of course it may deform under braking pressure too... or you might take a file to the lower half of that collar (looks like it might be metal, or even some kind of nut painted black, maybe it could be removed) on the front of the brake hole.

the last pic shows the problem well. someone should come up with a clever solution

Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 03-03-15 at 11:48 AM.
hueyhoolihan is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 11:38 AM
  #10  
Senior Member
Titanium Club Membership
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Originally Posted by upthywazzoo
Ah. I knew I forgot something. Pictures! Sorry about about that....
Something is seriously F***ed up.

I can't see it in the photo, please indicate with a mark of some kind where the nut is on the back of the fork. Ir is this some sort of a blind mount? and if so why don't you let the brake orient to the face, as it naturally would.

BTW- if the nut is in the back of the fork and lined up with the bolt as it is in the photo, the fork is defective.

A correctly drilled fork will be drilled square to the face. (no exceptions) The position of the exit hole in the back will conform this or prove otherwise. Gauging by the photo, I'd expect the exit hole to be much lower, down near the apex of the curve in the fork or even below that.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 11:38 AM
  #11  
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 507
Likes: 68
From: Chicago

Bikes: 1984 Trek 770

Originally Posted by hueyhoolihan
it's hard to tell from the picture the degree to which the poor alignment between the front surface of the fork and the mounting hole affects the brake caliper position. as you mentioned, usually a good tightening of the mounting nut will pull everything in line with the mounting hole. misalignment. it should be even more effective with a carbon fork, in that the surface will more likely conform to pressure, but...

you might try a plastic or nylon washer (ACE is the place ), it may deform just enough to do the job.
Right, I'm just afraid of cracking the carbon by tightening that recessed nut too much. I figured I was helping spread the load evenly by using those spherical washers.
upthywazzoo is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 11:38 AM
  #12  
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 507
Likes: 68
From: Chicago

Bikes: 1984 Trek 770

Originally Posted by FBinNY
Something is seriously F***ed up.

I can't see it in the photo, please indicate with a mark of some kind where the nut is on the back of the fork. Ir is this some sort of a blind mount? and if so why don't you let the brake orient to the face, as it naturally would.

BTW- if the nut is in the back of the fork and lined up with the bolt as it is in the photo, the fork is defective.

A correctly drilled fork will be drilled square to the face. (no exceptions) The position of the exit hole in the back will conform this or prove otherwise.
The nut is installed.
upthywazzoo is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 12:11 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
Titanium Club Membership
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Originally Posted by upthywazzoo
The nut is installed.
Yes, but I can't see it in the photo, and can't use it as a guide to help identify what may be wrong.

Again, so you can draw your own conclusions. The bolt should not be horizontal or perpendicular to the steering axis, it should be perpendicular to the fork's face, or tilted down about 17° from the steering axis. So if the nut is on and it's the same height in back and front the fork is drilled wrong. (unless it's of some sort of unique design).
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 12:22 PM
  #14  
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 507
Likes: 68
From: Chicago

Bikes: 1984 Trek 770

Originally Posted by FBinNY
Yes, but I can't see it in the photo, and can't use it as a guide to help identify what may be wrong.

Again, so you can draw your own conclusions. The bolt should not be horizontal or perpendicular to the steering axis, it should be perpendicular to the fork's face, or tilted down about 17° from the steering axis. So if the nut is on and it's the same height in back and front the fork is drilled wrong. (unless it's of some sort of unique design).


Used a post-it note to mark the center of the hole in the back. Looks like it's incorrect, then?
upthywazzoo is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 12:28 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
Titanium Club Membership
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Originally Posted by upthywazzoo

Used a post-it note to mark the center of the hole in the back. Looks like it's incorrect, then?
Yes, that tells me what I needed to know. Unless the fork has some kind of removable insert in front that can create a face square to your red line, the fork is 100% for sure defective.

If returning it is an option, that's your best course. If not, you need to build up a face in front that's square to the line, but that may mean other problems because you'll note that the brake is set at an angle which brings the shoes into an overlap with the blades.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 12:57 PM
  #16  
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 507
Likes: 68
From: Chicago

Bikes: 1984 Trek 770

Alright, I'll see if return is an option. Thanks a lot guys!
upthywazzoo is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 01:25 PM
  #17  
CroMo Mike's Avatar
All Campy All The Time
Titanium Club Membership
10 Anniversary
 
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,432
Likes: 124
From: Richmond, Virginia

Bikes: Listed in my signature.

It would be simple project for a home machinist to create an angled spacer or to mill a flat on the fork that is perpendicular to the bolt hole. I get a lot of use out of my lathe and mill.
CroMo Mike is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 01:32 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
Titanium Club Membership
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Originally Posted by CroMo Mike
It would be simple project for a home machinist to create an angled spacer or to mill a flat on the fork that is perpendicular to the bolt hole. I get a lot of use out of my lathe and mill.
Yes, there are ways to make this work, but as I said, there's also the issue ob brake shoe/blade clearance.

Even if every issue can be addressed, and they can, there's another issue that can't be addressed.

This is a no name carbon fork. Given the nature of the error, I'd have plenty of trouble trusting this manufacturer. It might be OK for another part, but forks are things that you have to have 100% blind faith in, and this doesn't make the cut. If I couldn't get my dough back, I'd trash it on general principles.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 02:25 PM
  #19  
Senior Member
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,584
Likes: 14
From: City of Brotherly Love

Bikes: Raleigh Companion, Nashbar Touring, Novara DiVano, Trek FX 7.1, Giant Upland

Is the crown aluminum or carbon? If it's aluminum you might have some room to mill it, if it's carbon I'd say to make an epoxy wedge.
Bezalel is offline  
Reply
Old 03-03-15 | 02:57 PM
  #20  
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 507
Likes: 68
From: Chicago

Bikes: 1984 Trek 770

Originally Posted by Bezalel
Is the crown aluminum or carbon? If it's aluminum you might have some room to mill it, if it's carbon I'd say to make an epoxy wedge.
All carbon. I have seen other forks that seemed to have a milled surface at the brake hole....
upthywazzoo is offline  
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jixr
Bicycle Mechanics
9
02-23-16 11:33 AM
NathanHeeney
Bicycle Mechanics
4
06-03-14 06:49 PM
UMassAm
Bicycle Mechanics
8
10-03-12 09:09 AM
cal_gundert05
Bicycle Mechanics
3
04-02-11 02:39 PM
malsr
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
2
02-21-10 10:43 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.