I'm contemplating painting or powdercoating a frame. I've seen some bikes with color-matched stems or bullmoose handlebars. I like the look, but I'm curious what's been done - are they painted, powdercoated, what? Does the paint get scratched up on installation, does the stem get stuck? Could you do it to the seat post?

Here's an example, a 1986 Ritchey MTB. Not my photos, found via MTBR and Photobucket





Here's another example
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Marin-Lite-M...p2047675.l2557

Aluminium quill stems and seat posts are generally anodized. Steel ones Are usually Powdercoated. Quill stems often have a slightly sloppy fit, and will go in even with a layer of paint on. Seat posts are often tighter. Check fit before committing.Both will get scuffed if you change heights.

On my '87 Mongoose the stem is actually made from two parts -- a painted alloy stem with a chromed steel quill pressed into it. Needless to say, the paint held up fine for 25 years (I repainted the bike in 2013).

Having painted a few stems I've made I'll say that the paint usually does get scratches or scuffed on installation. Taking cars as to how deep you place the stem in the beginning helps to limit the cosmetic damage to the section unseen. Of course powder paint will usually be thicker but no less resistant to scratching. I would never consider painting the post. Andy.

+1) Powder coat adds thickness to a tube .. I had to sand off the powder on a handlebar to get the R'off grip shifter to fit , as the tube was 22.5 OD and not 22.2.

I gotta ask why you say these things, Andrew?

Powder coat can be applied in ANY thickness. It has vastly superior scratch, chip, mar and peel resistance to liquid paint. It is almost infinitely flexible, and It is also has superior rust inhibitor qualities.

I've done stems, posts, handlebars, hubs, rims, even pedals, cogs and chain wheels. Tough as nails. No problems. Just be aware of your tolerances and apply accordingly.

there is epoxy and polyester powders too for different examples..

Why not mask off the quill section that goes into the fork before powder coating? That way you don't have tolerance issues from the powder coat and you can do the same inside the clamp.

"I gotta ask why you say these things, Andrew?

Powder coat can be applied in ANY thickness. It has vastly superior scratch, chip, mar and peel resistance to liquid paint. It is almost infinitely flexible, and It is also has superior rust inhibitor qualities.

I've done stems, posts, handlebars, hubs, rims, even pedals, cogs and chain wheels. Tough as nails. No problems. Just be aware of your tolerances and apply accordingly." SquidPuppet

I say it because that is what I see pretty much every time I look at a powder coated frame. I understand that, just as wet paint, powder paint can be done with varying levels of competence. I often see incomplete coverage, poor flow around edges, fairly thick application and the expression of the final color not quite being what was expected. I find that when assembling these frames the durability isn't much different then a wet paint job and often the lack of prep details means that edges get chips when parts are installed.

Not that I also haven't seen much the same with low cost wet jobs. Just that I don't see the powder standing above a wet job in any way but low cost. I wish we had a higher quality coater then this community seems to have. I'd love to suggest better results from a better coater when customers ask me about where to go for their work. I'd consider having my own frames done by a quality coater if one was easily available. Andy.

I guess I just find it a bit frustrating that some (most?) of your comments about powder coating down play it's quality, when they are based only on your experience with shoddy workmanship from a few local shops. I would never make generally negative comments about wet paint if my only experience was with crappy jobs from unskilled shops.

On frames and forks, I request the thickest coat they can safely apply. That's one of the beauties of powder. They don't have to lay down multiple coats, waiting for each to dry between each coat, and sanding each as well. With powder, the heavier they go, the glassier it lays down when it melts.

Sorry for the late reply, but you leave the 'quill' bare. Anyone who would anodize, powdercoat, or paint the quill is an idiot.

Like those idiots at Nitto?

From the photo... YES!!!

That is BAD

Silver... Yes
Black... Maybe

Other colors... NO.