Hi, does anyone know how much these complete wheels weigh front and rear from the factory?

1) Specialized Allez
2) Trek Bontrager AT-750 (from 7.2FX)
3) Colnago Artemis c32

The reason for those wheels im asking about, is because they come up secondhand where i live quite often.

I have a Trek 7.2 and want to use stronger lighter wheels and tires. I have googled and googled and googled but cannot find any reliable info....so im hoping that someone has changed their wheels and has a general idea about how much they weigh. The Bontrager AT-750 also exhibits quite a bit of lateral flexing, these come stock from Trek on my 7.2

If its possible to use higher quality spokes instead of changing rims, im also up for that and am listening.

thanks

I saw your other attempt to post this. maybe ask the admin to delete the other thread?

I am surprised that you are concerned about minor differences in wheel weight when riding a Trek 7.2. Andy.

I can't help with weights because I don't track that kind of thing. But before buying wheels you have to decide what matters to you.

Here's some general info you can use to guide you, especailly with regard to wheel flex, since you mentioned it as an issue.

Spoke quality, and tension do not affect wheel flex, though they can affect life expecancy.

The main thing that affects wheel flex is the total amount of steel, ie. spoke cross section (main length section is what counts here, not the butted ends) and the number of spokes. The bracing angle (CTF distance in hub) also affects rigidity, but less than most people believe except at the fringes, ie. below 18mm or over 40mm.

Rim rigidity counts 2 ways, deeper section rims deflect less radially, and spread load changes better, and so can work effectively with lower spoke counts, whereas shallow rims work better with more spokes. Greater rim width likewise improves lateral rigidity, by spreading deflections over more spokes. More width can make a big difference in the lateral rigidity of low spoke count wheels, but the trend is to narrower rims so, nice light, but slightly wider rims are scarce these days.

Overall strength is determined by the amount of steel at the weakest point, (usually the elbow) but wheel durability improves when the elbows are reinforced with respect to the overall spoke cross section (why butted spokes are generally preferred).

I hope this helps you look at options and form conclusions about what to expect. Good luck in your wheel search.

Almost any after market wheel will be lighter and stiffer than the base model factory wheels. Chances are the hubs will be higher quality also.

Velocity sometimes has blemished wheels:
Velocity - Dyad Touring Commuter Sport Wheelset 700c - *blemished*

Dyad is great strong rigid rim.

How strong are your existing wheels?
How much do they weigh?
How much do they flex?

the original tires alone weight 740grams each.

once the stem is flipped upside down, the 7.2 is a completely different bike.

thanks for all that info, really puts things into better perspective.

think theres any benefit from the wheels below over original Bontrager at-750's....even if they weighed the same? Im considering these at the moment....

And I mentioned wheel not tire weight. I agree completely about running light weight casinged tires. Trek chose tires that are pretty rugged and flat resistant because of the anticipated buyer's view.

I'll add that I've had dozens of customers who start thinking like you are. They have a recreational bike and begin to "upgrade" it bit by bit. In time they have spent as much as the kind of bike they really wanted yet only have one bike and a pile of parts with little value. I usually suggest they get that second bike and at least end up with two bikes, both working well. At the least there's a back up bike and at best the old bike can be sold off to help offset the new bike's cost.

BTW the Trek 7.2 is our most popular bike we sell. I know it well. Andy.

In general, OEM wheelsets are pretty crappy. Even on bikes that cost a lot. I'd be looking more at aftermarket wheels if you want to upgrade. Finding weights on stuff like this is often difficult. If you really want to be sure before you buy, bring a gram scale with you. It's a little awkward to do in front of a seller but whatever.

Also keep in mind, I'm fairly certain your FX is spaced at 135mm in the rear. OEM road racing wheels are spaced at 130mm and you will need to make sure you can get them re-spaced to 135 before buying. Shimano cassette hubs are nice for this because they are loose-ball bearing so you can just add a 5mm washer to the left side and re-dish. Cartridge bearing hubs are often not as flexible.

Completely agree. If you want to make your FX nicer that's one thing but don't try to turn it into a road racing bike because it'll never be one without a major overhaul including drop bars. If that's what you're after keep the FX for what it was intended and get a road bike. The FX is a great commuter.

IMO- people expect too much when comparing wheels. There's plenty of difference in how well wheels hold up, largely reflecting quality of build, but much smaller differences in how they ride after you discount the placibo effect, or subconscious validation of a purchase decision. Weight does make some difference, especially in front wheels where light wheels always feel "snappier" because they don't resist steering inputs as much, but then again tires tend to weigh as much or more than rims, so any benefit is reduced by half.

Im ny almost 50 years of riding, I don't remember ever replacing a working wheel. When one dies from a crash (none of mine ever lived long enough to die a natural death), I rebuild consistent with my general philosophy of light rims, and more light spokes, rather than heavier rim and fewer spokes.

i just took the bike apart to get an idea of weight for specific pieces.

seatpost, seat and forks are what needs to be lightened. Tires with stronger sidewalls as well, as i think this is where most the perceived flex is coming from, not the wheels.

That's where you start to loose weight. Those have to be the heaviest 700-35 tires I've heard of. You should easily be able to cut that weight by 300 grams/tire.

"Stronger" likely means heavier and will still "flex".
What air pressure are the tires rated for and what do you use.
Higher pressure should reduce "flex".

yep these things are bricks :

Bontrager: H2 700C (Model #11523)

i have the 700x35c

changing to the vittoria's ive been looking at will knock off almost 1000 grams (2 lbs)

the tires are rated at 95 psi max, i have 80 psi in them...ride is harsh above this.

the Bontrager H2 hard case lite tires are only 60 TPI...the ones im looking at are 320 tpi.

thanks for reminding me about the 135, i measured and youre right.

wheels are an investment which can be transferred to another bike so it s an investment im willing to make, because it can be transferred. But after taking the bike apart im going to have to weigh them though, if they arent too much over 1600 grams im going to leave them....i thought they were the heavy part for the 7.2, but i think its more the tires than anything.

losing around a pound per wheel in tire weight is ridiculous, getting something with less rolling resistance im sure is going to help as well as going to either 25 or 28.

i think after everything is done its going to be around 4-5 pounds lighter. I have a lead on some carbon forks currently on a modified 7.2, im going to get that bike swap forks and sell it.

Higher thread count means "more supple".
"Strength" is somewhat nebulous as long as they are "strong enough".

You don't want "flex" and you don't want "harsh".
Good luck with that!

How much do you weigh?

I didn't realize there were WW hybrid owners... I guess it happens, it just never occurred to me that they could exist.

wow...lot of snobs on this forum.

im outta here.

Good riddance. Don't let the door.........

You can't point out one instance of snobbery.
People tried to help you.
They gave excellent advice, pointing you in a better direction. Apparently it burst your pre conceived bubble.
I'm sorry I wasted my time on an ingrate!

Tip: if you can't handle flack, The Internet is not for you.

+1 or more.