Filing dk fury dropouts?
#1
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 4
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Filing dk fury dropouts?
Alright i've read all the other dk fury posts, and i didnt see anyone talking about the 3/8 rear axle. I have owned my fury for about a year and have replaced almost all the really cheap stock components, but now i have gotten to the wheels which are makeing it extremely hard to pedal (thought it was just out of tru and hitting the brakes), but thats not the case. The hubs are just horrible the bearing races are chiped and even a few chunks have broken off. So my question is can i file that extra 1/8" off the bottom of the dropout to get a larger 14mm axle to fit. I'm only like 125lb (and not into raceing comps, i ride for pleasure), but isnt it really the top of the dropout that is going to take the stress when landing? really i just want my rear wheel to be reliable so i want it to be a strong street wheel & hub. I know this is strongly disencouaged. but i dont want race components. So please help me out! Thanks
#2
I rule with a mighty leg
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,571
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From: Smithtown, NY
Bikes: Fit Pro custom
First off, welcome to the forums! On a more serious note, please try to type things out and spell things correctly (it would be greatly appreciated).
As for your question: You really shouldn't even be riding street on that thing. Chances are, that frame is going to snap. Buy a new frame (built more for street), and upgrade your wheelset. Riding with a 3/8ths in the back is not a good idea.
As for your question: You really shouldn't even be riding street on that thing. Chances are, that frame is going to snap. Buy a new frame (built more for street), and upgrade your wheelset. Riding with a 3/8ths in the back is not a good idea.
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I am Gunz. Gunz are me.
I am Gunz. Gunz are me.
#3
Long haired freak.
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,281
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From: Still stuck in hell.
Bikes: 2011 SE Old Man Flyer.
It's an Aluminum frame, don't even let a file near it.
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"the bus came by and I got on, that's when it all began...there was Cowboy Neal at the wheel of a bus to never-ever land."
"the bus came by and I got on, that's when it all began...there was Cowboy Neal at the wheel of a bus to never-ever land."
#6
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: May 2007
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as for 6061 aluminum, i have tig welded, formed tubing on a jig, and made gussets with it and all of that requires filing, sanding, and metal finishing. As for my frame snaping, why because its aluminum? dont people case jumps in raceing literally catapulting them off the bike (and usually the bike lives to tell another tale)? well how is that any worse than me flying down the street and hitting a curb with my back wheel, or hopping of a 5' drop. As for buying a new frame, yeah that would be cool, how about a ti reaper? ha no im not going to buy a new frame because then i would still have to buy 2 new wheels and hubs. obviously since i have a 250 complete bike i cant blow 300 on a frame and then another 300 on wheels. not everyone can ride a fit frame right now
Last edited by bigbrotherus99; 05-09-07 at 11:42 AM.
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
From: St. Paul, MN
OK - if all you are doing is hitting an occasional curb, why do you NEED a 14mm axle? Just get a new 3/8 wheel. If you NEED a 14mm axle, then you're probably planning on riding in a manner that an AL Race frame isn't best for.
If you INSIST on filing your drops, you need to remove an equal amt from the bottom & the top of the dropout to make it 14mm. Otherwise you'll subtly change the geometry/handling of your bike. Slotted 14mm is a better option.
-Bill
If you INSIST on filing your drops, you need to remove an equal amt from the bottom & the top of the dropout to make it 14mm. Otherwise you'll subtly change the geometry/handling of your bike. Slotted 14mm is a better option.
-Bill





