Chrome Bottecchia Professional(?) - Nuovo Record - Worth $100? or nothing?
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Chrome Bottecchia Professional(?) - Nuovo Record - Worth $100? or nothing?
Hi guys,
My neighbor that sold me his pretty clean 86 Schwinn Paramount the other day also has this old Bottecchia in his garage. It's a full chrome that has some rust on it. No telling how bad the rust actually is without getting in and trying to see how it cleans up. Anyways, It has a nice Campy set that might clean up, or might not. The cogs on the RD are cracked.
What do you guys think? Could she be made anything out of or should I just let it go. He want's $100 for it.
I was wondering if it would be worth trying to take off the RD and the Crankset to put on my Paramount (which has a triompe/Victory RD).
My neighbor that sold me his pretty clean 86 Schwinn Paramount the other day also has this old Bottecchia in his garage. It's a full chrome that has some rust on it. No telling how bad the rust actually is without getting in and trying to see how it cleans up. Anyways, It has a nice Campy set that might clean up, or might not. The cogs on the RD are cracked.
What do you guys think? Could she be made anything out of or should I just let it go. He want's $100 for it.
I was wondering if it would be worth trying to take off the RD and the Crankset to put on my Paramount (which has a triompe/Victory RD).
Last edited by kburks1230; 01-01-18 at 08:02 AM.
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Wow. Such a shame to allow that bike to get into that condition. If it was me, I'd walk away. Maybe I would make a $20 pity offering.
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Suspect fork to be non-original.
OEM would have had a forged crown rather than this welded one.
If you get it/already have it check the Schwinn Approved GB stem. There is a possibility that it is an .833" mounted with a shim. (or maybe that Tange replacement fork has an .833 steerer and that is why it is there...)
Lettuce guess, owner lived by the sea.
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Suspect fork to be non-original.
OEM would have had a forged crown rather than this welded one.
If you get it/already have it check the Schwinn Approved GB stem. There is a possibility that it is an .833" mounted with a shim. (or maybe that Tange replacement fork has an .833 steerer and that is why it is there...)
Lettuce guess, owner lived by the sea.
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Shame. I like a bit of patina, but to me that looks too far gone to not get a full stripdown and respray to salvage. If the frame wasn't in such bad condition (esp around the BB and chainstays), you could quickly strip it down, replace the BB & headset, and end up spending $500 on new wheels (and everything else) and have a sweet bike.
I don't know if that frame is worth the effort. Maybe if it was 20 bucks and you wanted practice on it, so when you do find something worth restoring, it's not your first time?
I don't know if that frame is worth the effort. Maybe if it was 20 bucks and you wanted practice on it, so when you do find something worth restoring, it's not your first time?
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Suspect fork to be non-original.
OEM would have had a forged crown rather than this welded one.
If you get it/already have it check the Schwinn Approved GB stem. There is a possibility that it is an .833" mounted with a shim. (or maybe that Tange replacement fork has an .833 steerer and that is why it is there...)
Lettuce guess, owner lived by the sea.
-----
Suspect fork to be non-original.
OEM would have had a forged crown rather than this welded one.
If you get it/already have it check the Schwinn Approved GB stem. There is a possibility that it is an .833" mounted with a shim. (or maybe that Tange replacement fork has an .833 steerer and that is why it is there...)
Lettuce guess, owner lived by the sea.
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Yeah, we live in coastal West Palm Beach, FL.
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As ever, when a replacement fork is present it is good to scrutinize the main triangle for deformation.
Frame constructed with SP so there is likely adequate "meat" there still. Examine carefully tube interiors with strong light after oxalic bathing.
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As ever, when a replacement fork is present it is good to scrutinize the main triangle for deformation.
Frame constructed with SP so there is likely adequate "meat" there still. Examine carefully tube interiors with strong light after oxalic bathing.
-----
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#9
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Down here all of the clubs ride on A1A along the beach. If you drive A1A in a car you will notice a salt misted haze that forms on your windshield from the air that carries the salt mist. Also, since we are relatively close to saltwater the air is a bit more salty here. Its a shame. I could have had another bike to fiddle with. Im so curious what this frame would look like after an OA bath. Who knows, Could be some chrome left under there. I dont want to pay $100 to find out though.
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The fork was replaced for a (bad) reason, not 'an upgrade'. That's the tipping point. Remember, you only need one rust spot area to have weathered thru or compromised a set of dropouts to render the frame useless, unless you can braze, align + paint - or are willing to incur expense. Projects tend to drag at my house.
Better use of $100 is to help an existing bike ride better. Nice tires???
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#12
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Probably worth $100. How are the wheels? Straight and flat spot free?
Several years ago I bought a Klein Quantum that was used as a year round commuter. Frame had an aluminum efflorescence thing happening. All parts were worn and corroded. Paid $200 for it. Ended up using parts off of it for many bikes. Traded the wheels for another frame. Sold a few parts. That Bottecchia may be beyond saving as a whole bike but could be worth it for a part out and parts donor.
Several years ago I bought a Klein Quantum that was used as a year round commuter. Frame had an aluminum efflorescence thing happening. All parts were worn and corroded. Paid $200 for it. Ended up using parts off of it for many bikes. Traded the wheels for another frame. Sold a few parts. That Bottecchia may be beyond saving as a whole bike but could be worth it for a part out and parts donor.
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Down here all of the clubs ride on A1A along the beach. If you drive A1A in a car you will notice a salt misted haze that forms on your windshield from the air that carries the salt mist. Also, since we are relatively close to saltwater the air is a bit more salty here. Its a shame. I could have had another bike to fiddle with. Im so curious what this frame would look like after an OA bath. Who knows, Could be some chrome left under there. I dont want to pay $100 to find out though.
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Please don't confuse ebay "asking" prices with "selling" prices. Many sellers never get their ask price. some are far from it. Value is determined once an item actually SELLS. Its easy enough to check SOLD prices.
Last edited by wrk101; 01-02-18 at 07:55 AM.
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A good example of why you should never removes the paint from a chromed bike.
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#15
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If I wanted to spend $1000+ on getting this bike back to snuff with new paint I might do it. Otherwise everything on there is trashed. Some of the aluminum parts can be salvaged. Is the large chainring broken?
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Would possibly be a cool wall hanger for someone with a kitschy café or clubhouse. or hanging from the rafters in some artist's loft
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It looks like it would be very, very difficult to salvage anything from that mess. Very unfortunate - it was a nice bike once
Personally, I'd give $50 just to take it off the seller's hands - to see if I could get the pedals, seatpost and stem to actually come off!
And yes, the big ring has cracked at the inner web. I wonder how one accomplishes that?
DD
Personally, I'd give $50 just to take it off the seller's hands - to see if I could get the pedals, seatpost and stem to actually come off!
And yes, the big ring has cracked at the inner web. I wonder how one accomplishes that?
DD
Last edited by Drillium Dude; 01-13-18 at 01:03 PM.
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Bummer...Sad looking pedals too.
Rear derailleur might work after some scrubbing & lube.
Rear derailleur might work after some scrubbing & lube.
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