Bianchi Reparto Corse SL Lite
02-23-24, 08:03 AM
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Bianchi Reparto Corse SL Lite
is it worth it to sand down the bike and repaint it to the mercatone colorway, for context i found a bike on fb marketplace and the bike looks pretty solid the bike doesnt seem to have any paint peeling off but it looks pretty dust but the groupset has a bit of rust on it
and how doable is it to paint and apply the decals on the bike myself
the bike is 450 usd without shipping
and how doable is it to paint and apply the decals on the bike myself
the bike is 450 usd without shipping
02-23-24, 08:08 AM
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is it worth it to sand down the bike and repaint it to the mercatone colorway, for context i found a bike on fb marketplace and the bike looks pretty solid the bike doesnt seem to have any paint peeling off but it looks pretty dust but the groupset has a bit of rust on it
and how doable is it to paint and apply the decals on the bike myself
and how doable is it to paint and apply the decals on the bike myself
02-23-24, 08:26 AM
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I haven't seen the bike. Condition is important. Does it need a lot of work? You mentioned rust. Most bike parts are aluminum or other non-rusting material. How old is the bike? Does it fit you?
02-23-24, 08:42 AM
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Thread moved from C&V to C&V Appraisals.
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02-23-24, 08:46 AM
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oh yup sorry bout that, yup the bike frame fits me i believe and i gotta send a few more messages before i can post images and the bike is from 2000 according to the seller
02-23-24, 09:03 AM
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So it's an aluminum frame with 105? Older road bikes have declined a bit in value, so since this thread has been moved, I'll let the more-experienced folks respond about if it's worth it. If it's in good condition I'd be inclined to say yes.
02-23-24, 09:20 AM
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02-23-24, 09:29 AM
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Looks like a nice bike from what I've seen on-line.
02-23-24, 04:59 PM
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is it worth it to sand down the bike and repaint it to the mercatone colorway, for context i found a bike on fb marketplace and the bike looks pretty solid the bike doesnt seem to have any paint peeling off but it looks pretty dust but the groupset has a bit of rust on it
and how doable is it to paint and apply the decals on the bike myself
the bike is 450 usd without shipping
and how doable is it to paint and apply the decals on the bike myself
the bike is 450 usd without shipping
This is the only CHroMo Lite Bianchi I see on marketplace. What area are you in? It's not ever a complete bike and he wants $950 for it.
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02-23-24, 11:02 PM
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Usually repainting a bike on a whim is a terrible idea, unless the finish is so bad, any paintwork would be an improvement, or the bike has a high $$ value and the paintwork will assist with a restoration or be for sentimental reasons.
A good paintjob is not cheap. Think $600-$1000. Maybe more? It's a lot of work, and pretty specialized to paint a bike well.
If the frame is just dusty, I don't see any reason to paint. Often times it also kills resale value, so if you ever intend to sell in the future, something to keep in mind.
Oh, and let's see it!
A good paintjob is not cheap. Think $600-$1000. Maybe more? It's a lot of work, and pretty specialized to paint a bike well.
If the frame is just dusty, I don't see any reason to paint. Often times it also kills resale value, so if you ever intend to sell in the future, something to keep in mind.
Oh, and let's see it!
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02-24-24, 08:02 AM
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OH yeah do the "Brifters" (brake/shifters) work? https://www.bikeforums.net/g/picture/32786434
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02-25-24, 12:16 AM
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im not sure about that part but if i do get the bike im probably gonna buy a new shifter and brakes cuz i just prefer downtube shifters
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02-25-24, 12:28 AM
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Tue Celeste paint on Bianchis is notorious for developing crackling over time.
I don't seem to notice such going on, but it might be only visible at certain light conditions on this bike.
Having crackling on the paint could be ok, as long as the paont us not also flaking off, but anticipate it only to get worse as the buke is exposed to the environment and UV light....
I don't seem to notice such going on, but it might be only visible at certain light conditions on this bike.
Having crackling on the paint could be ok, as long as the paont us not also flaking off, but anticipate it only to get worse as the buke is exposed to the environment and UV light....
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02-25-24, 05:59 AM
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Tue Celeste paint on Bianchis is notorious for developing crackling over time.
I don't seem to notice such going on, but it might be only visible at certain light conditions on this bike.
Having crackling on the paint could be ok, as long as the paont us not also flaking off, but anticipate it only to get worse as the buke is exposed to the environment and UV light....
I don't seem to notice such going on, but it might be only visible at certain light conditions on this bike.
Having crackling on the paint could be ok, as long as the paont us not also flaking off, but anticipate it only to get worse as the buke is exposed to the environment and UV light....
02-25-24, 06:50 AM
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stockin That bike is pretty straight forward, and since you're not painting you won't need to remove the bottom bracket (BB) or headset (HS) you don't need that many specialized tools.
The most important thing is a good quality set of allen wrenches, Bohndous and Allen are great brands, and you don't really need the type with the "ball" on the end but it helps with bottle cages.
A quality set of cable cutters like these Park are a must to cleanly cut your cables.
Other than these good quality screwdrivers and wrenches are handy. I'm not sure what kind of wrenches you might need for those hubs though.
The most important thing is a good quality set of allen wrenches, Bohndous and Allen are great brands, and you don't really need the type with the "ball" on the end but it helps with bottle cages.
A quality set of cable cutters like these Park are a must to cleanly cut your cables.
Other than these good quality screwdrivers and wrenches are handy. I'm not sure what kind of wrenches you might need for those hubs though.
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02-25-24, 07:23 AM
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oh alright thank you! could i still get some of the names of those specialised tools just cuz id just like to buy everything in one go so if i do need it in the future id be nice having it around. thanks!
02-25-24, 11:57 AM
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I think you can start with a prepackaged tool box, but then you'll need to add on to those tools that came with the box. Also--those tool boxes (like the Bikehand YC-721) where the tools fit into specific molded places in the box, aren't very useful when you start really getting into this stuff. You'll eventually throw that "box" away and store your tools on a bench, or in a conventional tool box of some kind. As your tool kit grows, here are a few of my suggestions from a few threads back. Some of these tools are included in the Bikehand YC-721:
--Set of metric open/box end wrenches up to 17mm;
--12" adjustable ("Crescent") wrench;
--Ball-peen hammer;
--Metal shop ruler (to measure chain stretch, etc.);
--Needle-nose pliers (to grab the cable when adjusting derailleur cable tension);
--JIS (Japanese) Phillips head screwdriver, probably No. 2 will cover you in most instances;
--Hex/Allen Tri-wrench in 4, 5, 6 mm;
--Socket Tri-wrench in 8, 9, 10 mm;
--Torx Tri-wrench (I have one but don't use it, because I don't have any Torx fasteners);
--Pedal Wrench (I have an older (Verma?) model that has both 15mm and 1/2" at either end);
--Set of good quality cone wrenches (I use Park);
--High-quality spoke wrench to fit your spoke nipples. Park makes these. Get the kind that looks like a hot-air-balloon with rubber grip. Don't cheap out on this tool!;
--Headset wrench specific to your headset if you use one. Park makes these as well;
--Chain Whip;
--Cassette lockring tool depending on cassette manufacturer (This will be used in conjunction with your chain whip and adjustable wrench);
--Bottom-bracket tools, depending on what you're using and the era;
--Fourth hand (Hozan makes an excellent one);
--Quality bike-cable-specific cable cutters (I use a discontinued Shimano version but the newer Park one seems quite capable);
--Metric Allen key set (the "L" shaped ones);
--Chain Tool (type depending on what you use--rivets, quick links, etc.);
--Tools specific to your bike--I need an extra long 6mm Allen key for my stem and a 8mm Allen for my cranks. I also have a specific tool for my chainring bolts and crank dust caps, and one to adjust my pedal bearings;
--Good quality oil (your choice; I use Tri-Flow);
--Good quality grease (your choice; I use Shimano Special Grease. Phil is good too);
--Good quality floor pump including good-quality chuck for your particular valves (I use a Silca Pista Plus with Hiro chuck for Presta valves);
--Tire valve core tool (I think these would be used if you are tubeless and need to remove the valve core);
--Decent floor stand if your bike can be lifted into one;
Fun tools but completely unnecessary: Angle gauge; digital bike (expensive) or luggage (cheap) scale.
This list is what I can think of off the top of my head, but should be a good start for most home shops. YMMV. There are of course very specialized tools like dropout alignment tools, headset cup and race removers/installers, etc. These can be pricy and not used very often, but many can be fabricated at home. I may add to this list as I think of things.
--Set of metric open/box end wrenches up to 17mm;
--12" adjustable ("Crescent") wrench;
--Ball-peen hammer;
--Metal shop ruler (to measure chain stretch, etc.);
--Needle-nose pliers (to grab the cable when adjusting derailleur cable tension);
--JIS (Japanese) Phillips head screwdriver, probably No. 2 will cover you in most instances;
--Hex/Allen Tri-wrench in 4, 5, 6 mm;
--Socket Tri-wrench in 8, 9, 10 mm;
--Torx Tri-wrench (I have one but don't use it, because I don't have any Torx fasteners);
--Pedal Wrench (I have an older (Verma?) model that has both 15mm and 1/2" at either end);
--Set of good quality cone wrenches (I use Park);
--High-quality spoke wrench to fit your spoke nipples. Park makes these. Get the kind that looks like a hot-air-balloon with rubber grip. Don't cheap out on this tool!;
--Headset wrench specific to your headset if you use one. Park makes these as well;
--Chain Whip;
--Cassette lockring tool depending on cassette manufacturer (This will be used in conjunction with your chain whip and adjustable wrench);
--Bottom-bracket tools, depending on what you're using and the era;
--Fourth hand (Hozan makes an excellent one);
--Quality bike-cable-specific cable cutters (I use a discontinued Shimano version but the newer Park one seems quite capable);
--Metric Allen key set (the "L" shaped ones);
--Chain Tool (type depending on what you use--rivets, quick links, etc.);
--Tools specific to your bike--I need an extra long 6mm Allen key for my stem and a 8mm Allen for my cranks. I also have a specific tool for my chainring bolts and crank dust caps, and one to adjust my pedal bearings;
--Good quality oil (your choice; I use Tri-Flow);
--Good quality grease (your choice; I use Shimano Special Grease. Phil is good too);
--Good quality floor pump including good-quality chuck for your particular valves (I use a Silca Pista Plus with Hiro chuck for Presta valves);
--Tire valve core tool (I think these would be used if you are tubeless and need to remove the valve core);
--Decent floor stand if your bike can be lifted into one;
Fun tools but completely unnecessary: Angle gauge; digital bike (expensive) or luggage (cheap) scale.
This list is what I can think of off the top of my head, but should be a good start for most home shops. YMMV. There are of course very specialized tools like dropout alignment tools, headset cup and race removers/installers, etc. These can be pricy and not used very often, but many can be fabricated at home. I may add to this list as I think of things.
02-25-24, 11:58 AM
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On a bike of the type above, a 5mm and 6mm wrench will probably take care of 90% of the bolts and adjustments you need to do. Beyond that, a 2mm/3mm are good for adjusting brake pivots, 4mm sometimes for smaller allen bolts like water bottle cages and some stems, an 8mm hex wrench for some crank fixing bolts (or, typically a 14mm/15mm socket).
Some good bike-specific tools are (as Bianchigirll posted), a cable cutter, a crank puller, a splined cassette remover, a 'chain whip', a double sided BB cup remover (don't forget a big honkin' adjustable wrench), a pedal wrench (which is a thinner 15mm open end wrench, sometimes found on the other side of chain whips), headset wrenches (30/32mm, 34/36mm) and some cone wrenches for the hubes (typically 15mm and 17mm for the rear, and 13mm and 15mm for the front). This is a very generic list, but decently friendly to bikes from the 80s and 90s. Oh, and a chain breaker. Despite all that, really not that much $$$ outlay. Where the big money is is going be your facing, reaming, pulling, setting and alignment tools. Not necessary for you right now.
Older bikes than those, you may want to think about an 8, 9 and 10mm wrenches. You know those little combo tools? If you are looking to save some money, finding one of those little tools used would get you 1/3 to 1/2 of those tools listed above. Not ideal, but cheap.
Takes care of 95% of my on-the-fly adjustments:
Some good bike-specific tools are (as Bianchigirll posted), a cable cutter, a crank puller, a splined cassette remover, a 'chain whip', a double sided BB cup remover (don't forget a big honkin' adjustable wrench), a pedal wrench (which is a thinner 15mm open end wrench, sometimes found on the other side of chain whips), headset wrenches (30/32mm, 34/36mm) and some cone wrenches for the hubes (typically 15mm and 17mm for the rear, and 13mm and 15mm for the front). This is a very generic list, but decently friendly to bikes from the 80s and 90s. Oh, and a chain breaker. Despite all that, really not that much $$$ outlay. Where the big money is is going be your facing, reaming, pulling, setting and alignment tools. Not necessary for you right now.
Older bikes than those, you may want to think about an 8, 9 and 10mm wrenches. You know those little combo tools? If you are looking to save some money, finding one of those little tools used would get you 1/3 to 1/2 of those tools listed above. Not ideal, but cheap.
Takes care of 95% of my on-the-fly adjustments:
02-26-24, 06:58 PM
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02-26-24, 09:18 PM
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I have taken a look at those but having it shipped to Hong Kong is way too costly as it's gonna be almost another 200 pounds so I'm trying to find some options in Asia as I think that it's going to be a lot cheaper.
