1987 Fuji palisade
03-29-12, 07:54 PM
#76
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Now that you have the parts, when do you plan to start the restore?
03-29-12, 09:18 PM
#78
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Shaun, you got a nice bike. I think you paid a good price for what you got. I own a spoke wrench that I got for $3. Even Wal Mart have them. I trued many wheels with that cheap tool and I think its fine. If everything works on your bike replace the tires and the cables and ride it. I have a few old bikes that don't even have bar tape or that the bar tape is floating around. It can wait. I'd say that the bottom bracket can be done a little later. Ride it a little get use to it and when you have more money take it to the LBS to have it done.
Please don't try to use a set of long nose pliers to do your spokes. I've done that mistake and paid for it.
I personally like the shifter the way they are on your bike rather than the down tube. I wouldn't worry about that for now.
The others are right tho. A well maintained bike will last forever. I have a cheap bike that I have maintain and commuted thousands of km per year with and it's still as good as new.
Just enjoy your bike, it's a nice one. I'd be proud of having one like that.
Please don't try to use a set of long nose pliers to do your spokes. I've done that mistake and paid for it.
I personally like the shifter the way they are on your bike rather than the down tube. I wouldn't worry about that for now.
The others are right tho. A well maintained bike will last forever. I have a cheap bike that I have maintain and commuted thousands of km per year with and it's still as good as new.
Just enjoy your bike, it's a nice one. I'd be proud of having one like that.
03-29-12, 11:10 PM
#79
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A bike shop in my area is offering a tune-up special for $50 that would address all your issues. Perhaps there's one in your area as well?
I feel achingly bad for the situation you're in. Spring is here, time to ride.
I feel achingly bad for the situation you're in. Spring is here, time to ride.
03-30-12, 08:32 AM
#80
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For cryin' out loud, google some "How-To" stuff online ... see the links I posted earlier ... tutorial videos, online instruction manuals, etc. Wheel alignment OK? Brakes work? Then oil it up and try riding it very slowly, in a very safe place devoid of automobile traffic. Not asking you to be another Evil Knievel here. Forget about tools and "bike flipping" for now, and get that bike rideable. It shouldn't really need much. If you start messing around with it too much, you will ruin it at this point. Do the simple basics, and isolate individual repairs and focus on them in a knowledgeable (read up/watch the tutorials) way.
Another solution to the problem...
Another solution to the problem...
03-30-12, 08:51 AM
#81
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For cryin' out loud, google some "How-To" stuff online ... see the links I posted earlier ... tutorial videos, online instruction manuals, etc. Wheel alignment OK? Brakes work? Then oil it up and try riding it very slowly, in a very safe place devoid of automobile traffic. Not asking you to be another Evil Knievel here. Forget about tools and "bike flipping" for now, and get that bike rideable. It shouldn't really need much. If you start messing around with it too much, you will ruin it at this point. Do the simple basics, and isolate individual repairs and focus on them in a knowledgeable (read up/watch the tutorials) way.
03-30-12, 09:23 AM
#82
Senior Member
Hey, I went this morning, My friend said it was in excellent condition. Needs new cables, bar tape, tires and brake pads as expected. Haggled down the price to 150 dollars from his asking price of 225. Fits me well and im happy with my purchase, now i just need some helping choosing the components to fix it up with. I would like to spend 75 more to fix it.
Last edited by knobd; 03-30-12 at 10:08 AM.
03-30-12, 11:13 AM
#83
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I think you made a good move assuming you can handle some wrenching yourself. I was lucky enough to get an '88 Fuji Sagres SP last year for free from a relative. I put some bucks into it to bring it up to snuff and almost 1500 miles later I couldn't be happier with it. Rides smooth and is pretty quick despite being almost 27 lbs. My bike is a notch up from entry level but is still on the lower half of the scale overall. Good luck with it.
03-30-12, 03:40 PM
#84
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WELL i was working on the bike and all of a sudden i find myself with my rear hub apart and all the bearings out, and cleaned the grease out. It kind of just happened, i was like hmm i wonder if i can get the hubs apart. So now i have all the bearings in a bag. I should just regrease and reassemble right? And how on arth do i remove the freewheel to clean it, is got tons f caked on grease and is really grimy and needs to be cleaned. any help is appreciated. ps i did reasearch before coming here.
03-30-12, 05:44 PM
#85
Constant tinkerer
To remove the freewheel you will need the proper freewheel remover (<$10) and a large wrench or preferably bench vise.
Did you even read the hub overhaul article I posted? https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/hubs.html
All the information is there.
All the information is there.
03-30-12, 05:58 PM
#86
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I did actually read that, However i am unaware if i should use wd 40 or not?. On the freewheel too?
Also, i need conew wrenches to put it back together? or no? and the freewheel is really in my way of the bearings, so i want to take it off. You guys keep saying, this tool is <10 dollars, but 10 tools can add up.
Also, i need conew wrenches to put it back together? or no? and the freewheel is really in my way of the bearings, so i want to take it off. You guys keep saying, this tool is <10 dollars, but 10 tools can add up.
03-30-12, 06:07 PM
#87
Constant tinkerer
Yeah, WD40 is fine to clean out the freewheel. Then drip some medium weight oil in there to lubricate.
You can clean and lube the hub bearings without removing the freewheel but you can't do as good of a job and it's really best to remove it. You absolutely cannot remove a freewheel (without destroying it) without the proper freewheel remover tool.
Yes, you definitely need one cone wrench to properly adjust your hubs. It is impossible to get the locknuts tight otherwise. I know it sucks buying a bunch of tools right away but most of them last a lifetime and once you use them a couple times they pay for themselves rather than paying a shop to do the work for you. Sometimes a tool will pay for itself after the first use.
You can clean and lube the hub bearings without removing the freewheel but you can't do as good of a job and it's really best to remove it. You absolutely cannot remove a freewheel (without destroying it) without the proper freewheel remover tool.
Yes, you definitely need one cone wrench to properly adjust your hubs. It is impossible to get the locknuts tight otherwise. I know it sucks buying a bunch of tools right away but most of them last a lifetime and once you use them a couple times they pay for themselves rather than paying a shop to do the work for you. Sometimes a tool will pay for itself after the first use.
03-30-12, 06:26 PM
#88
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Hey shaun413, did you want to just get a bike to ride or did you want a restoration project?
03-31-12, 03:35 PM
#91
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I know we're all rooting for this thread to crack 100, but you should probably take your action here.
03-31-12, 05:20 PM
#92
Constant tinkerer
03-31-12, 05:35 PM
#94
Constant tinkerer
Really? The same questions over and over again? This is hopeless. READ!!! It's all here, I promise:
https://sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
When you get stuck and have SPECIFIC QUESTIONS come back for help. We would be, and have been, more than happy to help. But to ask how to regrease your hubs when there are entire articles written about it is pointless.
https://sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
When you get stuck and have SPECIFIC QUESTIONS come back for help. We would be, and have been, more than happy to help. But to ask how to regrease your hubs when there are entire articles written about it is pointless.
04-01-12, 06:50 AM
#95
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Really? The same questions over and over again? This is hopeless. READ!!! It's all here, I promise:
https://sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
When you get stuck and have SPECIFIC QUESTIONS come back for help. We would be, and have been, more than happy to help. But to ask how to regrease your hubs when there are entire articles written about it is pointless.
https://sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
When you get stuck and have SPECIFIC QUESTIONS come back for help. We would be, and have been, more than happy to help. But to ask how to regrease your hubs when there are entire articles written about it is pointless.
04-01-12, 10:47 AM
#96
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I'm sorry to say but you will hit more frustrations if you keep trying to disassemble the whole bike. Clean what you can and ride it. If you can't do the repair or do not have the tools bring it to someone who can look after it. If you are not to go do millions of miles on it just ride it. There's things that don't need to be done right away like repacking every little bearing component and replacing everything except the frame.
For my free wheels and rear hubs I usually use a small flat scewdriver,a cotton rag, wd40 and some degreaser. I just work my way gently between the cogs. I also use a butter knife.
For my free wheels and rear hubs I usually use a small flat scewdriver,a cotton rag, wd40 and some degreaser. I just work my way gently between the cogs. I also use a butter knife.
04-02-12, 02:49 PM
#97
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I'm sorry to say but you will hit more frustrations if you keep trying to disassemble the whole bike. Clean what you can and ride it. If you can't do the repair or do not have the tools bring it to someone who can look after it. If you are not to go do millions of miles on it just ride it. There's things that don't need to be done right away like repacking every little bearing component and replacing everything except the frame.
For my free wheels and rear hubs I usually use a small flat scewdriver,a cotton rag, wd40 and some degreaser. I just work my way gently between the cogs. I also use a butter knife.
For my free wheels and rear hubs I usually use a small flat scewdriver,a cotton rag, wd40 and some degreaser. I just work my way gently between the cogs. I also use a butter knife.
08-17-20, 08:05 PM
#98
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Hello Shaun413 as a senior member to this forum. I wanted you to know that I have just gladly paid $325.00 for a complete mechanical overhaul and up grade to my 1986 Palisade Fuji. After ridding it tonight I can honestly say the cost was well worth the cost for the shear joy and pleasure of again taking my “bike” out for a ride. It now feels like a new bike and handles with such ease and let me tell you how wonderful the braking system now works. Yes, the bike is worth it! Enjoy the ride.
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