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1973 Azuki! yeah, yeah...

Old 02-01-14, 04:20 PM
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joe bag o donut
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1973 Azuki! yeah, yeah...

So I saw this bike on CL and she looked great all yellow and stuff. Thanks to this forum and other references, I have determined her to have matching Shimano components from 1972/73. These being Eagle front and Thunder Bird rear derailleurs, 333 W round stem shifters, and period UKAIRIM rims. Dia-Compe brakes levers and not sure of brand cantilever brakes (looks like SJ or SIJ).

Couple questions I haven't nailed down yet are what type of metal would the frame be made of, anyone seen one of these type of spoke protectors, aluminum rims, and what would you pay for her in this condition?

Seatpost has B187 stamped into it.

Thanks!









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Old 02-01-14, 04:49 PM
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Looks pretty low end. Rims are steel. Frame is probably hi-ten. Crankset is either installed wrong or the cotters are completely shot (or likely both). Looks like it was probably re-done by someone who didn't know what they were doing.
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Old 02-01-14, 04:49 PM
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It's likely some form of hi-ten (high tensile) steel, pretty basic stuff.

Worth? To me, somewhere around 50$. On Craigslist, in ready to ride condition, 125/150$ when the students here come back in session, about 100$ otherwise.

+1 on the shot/poorly installed cotter.
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Old 02-01-14, 04:56 PM
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Great! I was close with my uneducated guessing. What determines a "poorly installed" cotter?
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Old 02-01-14, 04:58 PM
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Note how the crank arms don't line up with one another. This is a dead hint the cotter is either loose, shot, or poorly installed. Can't tell which without taking it apart, really.

The cranks should be much more in line:

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Old 02-01-14, 05:04 PM
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That explains the loose crank arm!

Google brought me the forum's advice from 2004. Tried it and the cranks line up with no looseness!

"After adjusting the bottom bracket, if you think you need to tighten the cotter pins, try this method which requires no special tools. Take a hammer and an open-end wrench that will fit the nut on the cotter pin. Firmly tap the non-nutted side of the cotter pin and at the same time tighten the nut when you feel that the nut can turn. Repeat firm tapping until it appears that you are no longer able to tighten the nut any further. A word of caution: do not "reef" on the nut since it will strip out easily. In other words, do not apply excessive force as you tighten the nut." -Tom Pedale
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Old 02-01-14, 05:07 PM
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Looks to have one of the cotter pins installed backwards upside down causing the crank to be at wrong angle. In Current shape only a $50 sort out he crank issues about $125 if the rest of the bike is good.
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Old 02-01-14, 08:11 PM
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Frame is hi-ten at best, might even be gas-pipe though. I seriously doubt I could sell that bike for $100. And if I did I'd feel like I ripped off the person...

My price would be $75 max. Considering the bunged crank, $20 max. I don't see any parts that have value.

Edit: actually, looks like they put new Continental Ultra Sport tires on there. So if you have a 27" wheelset in need of tires you could harvest them. Those are nice tires.
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Old 02-01-14, 09:31 PM
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I don't know why but for whatever reasons I like the shifters - if you decide to part out you may get some coin for them (if I was building something funky with gears I'd totally use them)
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Old 02-01-14, 09:48 PM
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I'm digging the shifters though....
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Old 02-02-14, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by FastJake View Post
Frame is hi-ten at best, might even be gas-pipe though. I seriously doubt I could sell that bike for $100. And if I did I'd feel like I ripped off the person...

My price would be $75 max. Considering the bunged crank, $20 max. I don't see any parts that have value.

Edit: actually, looks like they put new Continental Ultra Sport tires on there. So if you have a 27" wheelset in need of tires you could harvest them. Those are nice tires.
A lot of my value guote is based on the $60 or so of rubber on the wheels.
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