I picked this up from CL for 50 bucks. It needs a little bit of love in the bike stand, but I don't think any money. Both pedals are broken but I have a bunch of those laying around. Low end parts, but the frame and fork are both Chromo and the paint is in great shape! Shimano 100gs, which I think puts it from 1990-1992 if I am not mistaken.

I have a weakness for Peugeots

Since I'm already dealing with junk components (I meam they would be fine for cruising around town), seriously thinking about making it into a drop bar conversion...

Every one of the Canadian-made Peugeots I've seen has good workmanship and quality paint on them. I've upgraded a few of them with better parts and they are great bicycles... I would totally drop-bar that bike if don't dig flatbars.

The color is popular again.

I have owned a couple of Canadian made Peugeot mountain bicycles but most of my Canadian Made Peugeots is road bicycle focused. I have found the workmanship to out shine that of the French made machines, for what ever that is worth. That said, the French Peugeots have greater collectible value, in my opinion. This is the one of the Canadian made mountain bicycles that came my way a few years ago...

The bike's name sounds like a health insurance plan!

My two bits: be careful of dismissing it. I echo what Randy said. Some of the Canadian Peugeot production was excellent. The Canadian government set up an initiative to build bicycles in Manitoba where industry was needed — especially for the First Nations/aboriginal people.

I happen to know from experience that when Canada sets up a training program, some of the very best instruction comes forward. Look at any dozen French made Peugeot and compare the Canadian bike. Well, you probably won't. Just take what Randy says. The French bike may fetch more on a flip, but the Canadian bike may have been brazed and aligned with more skill.

I have a Canadian Peugeot frame. The tubing is truly triple-butted Ishiwata CrMo. Tap it and it rings like chimes! Ishiwata is now extinct. The factory in Fukushima, Japan was bought out, but the new owners retained the bulk of the same machinery and most of the Ishiwata employees. Today, that same company produces the tubing that is the standard steel that is used to build the sanctioned Japanese keirin bikes that race all over Japan by licensed professionals. Kasei tubing is the direct descendant if Ishiwata. Your frame may be merely "Hi-Ten" pipe — but even that can be useful for something. Just be careful what you are dealing with.

Mmmmmm Peugeot



Made in Canada Eh

Thanks all! I definitely feel the frame is pretty solid. All CroMo. Just low end components, which again...as long as they work will be fine for cruising around. All I have had time to do so far is clean it and spray the shifters with GT85. That got them working quite nicely. Both derailleurs need adjusting, as do the brakes. It needs new pedals and beyond that nothing needs to be done to ride it.

Looking at some close ups, maybe I won't go drop bars. I find the existing stem kind of cool, with Peugeot on it. I forgot that was there. A good friend already said I can dig around in his parts bin if I want to bother giving it some better components.

I don't know what Cadre DBS Frame means.

[MENTION=84826]randyjawa[/MENTION] - mytenspeed is your site? Neat! I have spent a few happy hours poking around there before.

well, I find cycling good for the health!

DBS Frame Technology, probably Double Butted System, a patented name.

THE CANADIAN MADE PEUGEOT

https://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpe..._Peugeot_1.htm

Depending on the time and place, the relative cost of frames and components does fluctuate, and the OP's bike reflects a higher-than normal emphasis on frame-to-component quality imo.
Not that any all-Shimano drivetrain won't work superbly when fresh like this one!

As far as making a road bike out of a mountain bike, remember that a drop bar adds a lot of reach, which usually requires a much-shorter stem extension to restore neutral handling.
So a good candidate for a drop bar conversion should be one that is perhaps too big for the rider as a mountain bike, and a much-shorter stem will then net a proper (for good handling) offset from the steerer centerline while at the same time netting a reasonable reach forward from the bottom bracket.
Judging from the saddle height shown, I suspect that the stem length needed to get fitted using drop bars may be too long for good handling.
It will still depend somewhat on the proportions of the rider, but MTB's with their 71-degree headtube angle will handle best with a much shorter stem than will a normal road bike, so the frame needs to be big enough to compensate.
The taller headtube of a larger MTB frame will typically also be an asset WRT a drop bar conversion.

This sizing advice also applies to road bikes like Schwinn Varsity/Continental models, given that they have about a 70-degree headtube angle.
Cyclocross frames also usually have 71-degree headtube angles, so similarly need to be fitted so that the rider achieves their proper fit using a shorter stem than on a road bike.