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Miyata one thousand

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Old 06-11-15 | 12:04 PM
  #26  
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From: Rural Western Wisconsin

Bikes: Down to 4 vintage touring machines

Originally Posted by captbixley
I really didn't appreciate what I had - but now I agree that I should retain the touring character of down tube bars. Would it make sense to install an adapter tube and an angled (17 degree) stem so that the down tube bars would be up and back some. I feel comfortable riding more up right but then my fingertips just reach the top of the handle bar. Sometimes my hands are on the hoods, but rarely down on the bottoms.

What about moving the shifters to the handle bars? Friction shifters? Index shifters - does than mean a new derailleur?
Thanks again for all the input.
I recently acquired the same year Miyata 1000 as yours captbixley with original components and you indeed have one of the best touring bikes ever produced. I have owned a Specialized Expedition which is often considered a close match to the Miyata that I built up from the frame for 20 years. I have no complaints with the Expedition but after the third ride on the Miyata I find I am falling in love with it. The ride is so stable and comfortable and even with front and rear racks mounted on it the ride is surprisingly peppy and reminds me much of how a much lighter Trek 500 that I used to own rode.

I am glad to see you are leaning toward keeping yours with the original drop bar look. Mine has a tall stem and I think it is the height of the bars that really make it feel so good. I think I will also look at moving the shifting to the bars.

Good luck with what changes you wind up making and I'm glad you are getting back up on that beauty. Welcome to the forum! There is also a Yahoo user group specific to Miyata/Specialized bikes. It hasn't been too active lately but there are some excellent photo albums that may give you some inspiration.
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Old 06-11-15 | 03:47 PM
  #27  
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From: Seattle

Bikes: Miyata 1000

I just ordered 180mm adapter from velo orange and a 60mm 40 degree stem - I will keep my existing bars at least for the time being. I rode yesterday no problem - I am in Seattle and live near the Burke-Gilman trail. Was a train track at one time so no challenging grades. I appreciate all the feedback and it would seem I have plenty of company in the senior division. I will continue to follow and post.
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Old 06-11-15 | 06:55 PM
  #28  
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Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT

Originally Posted by captbixley
I just ordered 180mm adapter from velo orange and a 60mm 40 degree stem - I will keep my existing bars at least for the time being. I rode yesterday no problem - I am in Seattle and live near the Burke-Gilman trail. Was a train track at one time so no challenging grades. I appreciate all the feedback and it would seem I have plenty of company in the senior division. I will continue to follow and post.

If your bars are bent- I think you need new bars- I had a set of bars bent in shipping in a manner very similar to yours. I got new bars. Generally speaking, older bikes have narrower bars to begin with- and I think wider bars (around 44cm) are more comfortable- And I'm not a big guy.

Before you get your new stem and stuff unpacked- I like to have the bars relatively high- at saddle height or a little over. I got a Nitto Dirt Drop stem- and I got the tall one because I knew that I wanted some height. Even slammed as far in as it would go- it was WAY too tall. So I got a used Specialized branded Nitto Dirt Drop stem- it puts the bars in the exact right place. However, I don't really like the look of the rising stem. It's also not comfortable to walk the bike by holding on to the stem. When I get around to it, I'm going to get a Technomic- I'm going to figure out what my rise and reach should be and get THAT.






Regarding shifting from the bars... This has always been an issue- lots of different attempts of solutions- IMO nothing is "perfect." I like the Suntour Command Shifters- they're the "butterfly" shifters that mount inboard of the brake levers. There's BarEnd shifters that are little toggles at the ends of the bars. There's stem shifters. There's "brifters" the brake levers integrated with the shifters. There's also things like mounting downtube shifters on "Paul thumbies," there's Kelly Take Offs that mount inboard of the brake levers. There's also "Retroshift."

IMO, the economical and stylistic choice for drop bars would be the bar end shifters. That's the way "they" did it back in the day.

However....

As much as I don't think any sort of flat bars should go on a tourer of that caliber- I think it's more important that you're comfortable riding your bike. There are lots of classy looking solutions to shifting at your fingertips with flat bars. If it were me- and I couldn't use drop bars, I would choose the Trekking bars (the butterfly bars pictured before). After that I'd go for a nice set of the Nitto Bullmoose bars. Both of those are unique. The Trekking bars give you DOZENS of hand positions. The Bullmooses realistically give you 2 usable positions- although some people say they can grip the center and other weird things- Otherwise, some bar end extensions would work nice, but look really goofy. Shifting is so easy from the bars- IMO the Suntour ratcheting ATB thumbshifters are among the greatest shifters of all time.

More than any stylistic choice- be comfortable and safe.

Best wishes!
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Old 06-17-15 | 05:59 PM
  #29  
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From: Seattle

Bikes: Miyata 1000

new handlebar arrangement


I installed adaptor tube and 40 degree stem. Handlebars are now more comfortable for me. I will put some miles on it and evaluate.
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