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identify a Raleigh?

Old 04-27-05, 03:42 PM
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mattmatthew
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identify a Raleigh?

hey i posed this question to the Classic Rendezvous list awhile back. wondering if anyone else has additional insights?

i have a raleigh, that's completely chrome.
the headbadge says "Raleigh Cycle Company of America", fastened by 3 rivets.
the headtube lugs have "RALEIGH" stamped into it.
shifting cables are routed under the BB via a plastic cable guide.
the rear dropouts and the seat stays are also stamped "RALEIGH".
the dropouts have drilled holes for racks/fenders.
rear brake cable guides and shifter bosses are brazed on.
water bottle cage holes are predrilled on the down tube.
brakes are long reach style, although it's hard to say whether any of the components are original.
the serial no. is 3KN0797 although it could also be SKN0797.
the previous owner said it was a Grand Prix, although he wasn't sure.
a few posters on the CR list thought it was a Huffy-made Raleigh.

any guesses on model? year? what the serial no. means?

aloha,
matt
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Old 04-27-05, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mattmatthew
hey i posed this question to the Classic Rendezvous list awhile back. wondering if anyone else has additional insights?

i have a raleigh, that's completely chrome.
the headbadge says "Raleigh Cycle Company of America", fastened by 3 rivets.
the headtube lugs have "RALEIGH" stamped into it.
shifting cables are routed under the BB via a plastic cable guide.
the rear dropouts and the seat stays are also stamped "RALEIGH".
the dropouts have drilled holes for racks/fenders.
rear brake cable guides and shifter bosses are brazed on.
water bottle cage holes are predrilled on the down tube.
brakes are long reach style, although it's hard to say whether any of the components are original.
the serial no. is 3KN0797 although it could also be SKN0797.
the previous owner said it was a Grand Prix, although he wasn't sure.
a few posters on the CR list thought it was a Huffy-made Raleigh.

any guesses on model? year? what the serial no. means?

aloha,
matt

Matt, Neither of my serial number sources sheds any light on your mystery bike. What da kine rear dropout? What is the spacing? Are there adjustment screw holes? Is there a derailleur hanger mounting hole? I'm presuming this is a road bike. How heavy is it? Does a magnet stick to it? What style fork? How do the stays attach to the head lugs? It does have head lugs, doesn't it? How long does it take you to ride from Waikiki to Hawaii Kai on it? A picture would be most helpful, but if you can't get one posted, you'll have to put up with pesky questions.

Sounds like a pretty nice frame from you initial description.
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Old 04-27-05, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by USAZorro
Matt, Neither of my serial number sources sheds any light on your mystery bike. What da kine rear dropout? What is the spacing? Are there adjustment screw holes? Is there a derailleur hanger mounting hole? I'm presuming this is a road bike. How heavy is it? Does a magnet stick to it? What style fork? How do the stays attach to the head lugs? It does have head lugs, doesn't it? How long does it take you to ride from Waikiki to Hawaii Kai on it? A picture would be most helpful, but if you can't get one posted, you'll have to put up with pesky questions.

Sounds like a pretty nice frame from you initial description.
let's see if i can hit all these questions.
1. rear dropouts are stamped 'RALEIGH', as to what 'kine', who knows? they are horizontal, and they don't look anything like the dropouts on my masi gc, so i'm guessing they're not campy.
2. i believe the spacing is 126mm, 6-spd.
3. there are adjustment screw holes. as to whether the screws themselves are original, who can say.
4. there is a derailleur hanger, yes.
5. road bike indeed.
6. weight: don't have a scale. and the fork's not original, which is kinda heavy. tange. whole thing feels, hmm about 5-6 lbs or so. though i'm probably wrong.
7. don't have a magnet, either. i know it's steel. just don't know what kind.
8. fork not original.
9. the chainstays attach by way of insertion to a BB lug. the seatstays attach to the back of the seat tube lug.
10. it's completely lugged.
11. no idea, that's not my normal route.
12. pesky questions are A-OK.
13. pictures: (all i got, sorry)



aloha,
matt
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Old 04-27-05, 10:20 PM
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Look at the bottom of page 2. I believe you may have the right information from your friend. http://bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalog...ighAmerica.pdf
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Old 04-27-05, 10:46 PM
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ick, so tiny. did they come in all-chrome versions? wish the catalog listed the specs and options... so whats the deal with the serial no? it doesn't match anything on retro raleighs or other sites...

aloha,
matt
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Old 04-28-05, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by mattmatthew
ick, so tiny. did they come in all-chrome versions? wish the catalog listed the specs and options... so whats the deal with the serial no? it doesn't match anything on retro raleighs or other sites...

aloha,
matt
You can select the size at the bottom left of the window. When it is larger, I think you'll see a very close resemblence. I know that some models of bicycles that have a substantial amounts of chrome, do have it under the paint as well. I have a 1973 Fuji "The Finest" that is chromed under the painted areas. As for serial numbers - I'm certain there must be some documentation for it somewhere - but I suspect that your bike is newer than the serial schemes those sites have concerned themselves with. Sorry I can't tell you the exact year, but I'm quite certain it is from the '80's.
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Old 04-28-05, 08:07 AM
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domo arigato mr. roboto.

matt
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Old 04-28-05, 08:22 AM
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The date of manufacture is stamped on the bb spindle.
You have a early 80's Raleigh (grand prix?) that has been ridden hard and put away wet.
They were made briefly in the states to meet demand from the 70's bike boom. The bike boom was over by then and the manufacturing was moved to malaysia.

Google search Raleigh history. There is a whole report on line that chronicles the history of the company.

If you are curious about value we sell those bikes for $100-125 overhauled and in good working condition.
Yard sale versions sell anywhere from $15 - 40 around here.

Enjoy
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Old 04-28-05, 08:44 AM
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Powers, I think your advice on the spindles applies mainly to the old Phillips spindles for cottered cranks. On something newer like the Raleigh in question it's easier to get a date from the stem, or crank arms.
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Old 04-28-05, 09:11 AM
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I'm going to say it is a 1983 Raleigh gran prix. It looks almost exactly like my '84 GP which I bought new and still ride. Mine has suntour ARX deraillers, diacomp side pull brakes with hidden cables, my serial # which I just looked at recently to license is 4KDxxx. My frame has a sticker saying raleigh SL555 double butted cro-moly main tubes. My frame is all chrome with the paint over it. I would have to look I think araya 700C rims. Your handlebars are not original but you probably knew that. I believe it has a raleigh branded SR crankset. 6 speed rear freewheel. You may also find an extra mounting lug on the tube opposite the shifters. this mounted a "flick" stand which swings out to keep the front wheel rigid to stand it up easier. When I get home tonite I'll take a look at mine. Any other questions about stuff I should look at. If your looking at parting this bike out I need one of the small knobs for the small screws that set the axle depth on the rear dropouts.
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Old 04-28-05, 11:45 AM
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I believe it has a raleigh branded SR crankset.

Most of one, anyway. Wha' happen' to the outer chainring?
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Old 04-28-05, 01:58 PM
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heh. no parting necessary. yeah the bike came out with a lot of suntour arx, although i think by the time this picture was taken, i had changed out a number of the parts that came on the bike, due to the fact that a car whacked the rear of my bike and more or less destroyed the rear derailleur... bike came with an SR (suntour?) crank stamped 'Raleigh'. the bike currently runs a nuovo record crank and an outer chainring, which i removed, since i'ved lived on mountains my whole life i never really had a need for it.

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Old 04-28-05, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mattmatthew
since i'ved lived on mountains my whole life i never really had a need for it.

matt
Yeah, I live in an urban area and my big chainring doesn't see a lot of use either. Makes a nice pantleg guard though.
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Old 04-29-05, 07:42 AM
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7. don't have a magnet, either. i know it's steel. just don't know what kind.

Here is the label from my '84. I took some other pics if your interested.
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Old 04-29-05, 02:26 PM
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That Raleigh looks like a "Racing USA" - These only ever sold in the US during the early to mid 80's. This looks very similar: http://www.retroraleighs.com/racing-usa.html and here; http://www.shoal.net.au/~mmueller/

- I hope this sheds light on this mystery Raleigh
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Old 04-29-05, 07:20 PM
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dedhed, i'd like to see more pics, if you please. :-)

retrosteel, i think the others are right, it's a grand prix. the racing usa is a full race bike; it doesn't have the fender/rack eyelets on the rear dropouts...

incidentally, i'm repainting the frame. some questions, what's the best way to remove and reinstall the headbadge? there's 3 rivets. are they a certain kind of rivet? also, the BB cable guide has a bolt through it fastening it to the bottom of the bike. is this a rivet also? how do i remove this guy?

aloha,
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Old 04-29-05, 07:54 PM
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Mine has the Racing USA decal on it but also says gran prix by the seat, it definately isn't a factory racer. i think I paid about $250 for it in 1984 brand new. I looked at the headbadge and cable guide. Head badge appears to be either drive rivets which are semi threaded rivets you pound in and are often used to hold ID plates on machinery. These can sometimes be twisted CCW and pulled out if you can get a hold of them and replacements are readily available. Or they could possibly be studs on the tube that are peened down. A possible solution would be to carefully grind of the head and see if you can remove them. Another option would be grind off, remove badge, leave a stud sticking up, and use something like JB weld to recreate the head. Or you could tape it up good and using a NEW razor blade or exacto knife carefully trim the tape. I've also seen petroleum jelly carefully applied as a mask and then wiped off. Or just leave the head tube chrome. On the cable guide, boy I can't really tell you what that is, sure looks like some sort of rivet or stud. that I would just tape off to mask it since it's on the bottom where you can't see it, unless of course you spend a lot of time upside down. I took about a dozen pics but unfortunately they're on the server at work and I can't access them until next week. You can contact me at
r e s ta rt 414 at e art h l i nk d o t net and I could mail them right to you.
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Old 06-15-05, 03:45 PM
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Raleigh Gran Prix Racing USA No. 4DN0031.

Soon to be rebuilt as a nicely-appointed 48/16/18 fixed/free singlespeed. After some cleanup, of course (and overhauling the frozen BB).

http://redraleigh.blogspot.com/

Guess I know (sort of) what year it is now.
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Old 08-03-10, 09:24 PM
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Let's bring this one back to the front page.

I just purchased a Raleigh Grand Prix from a local used bike shop. It is in very good condition with only a light coat of dust/grime and minimal surface corrosion spots. The only thing I am having trouble with is identifying the year of manufacture. Researching the serail number did not help much and all of the images I have looked at do not match my bike's paint job at all... Any help you may provide would be greatly appreciated.

I would like to strip all the components off and re-build it with the highest end components available in the year it was produced. It's going to be my "show/event" bike, so I'm taking my time in getting it just right. Will most likely fit it with a nice Brooks racing saddle, Phil Wood BB and Hubs while upgrading only the drive train to what was available at the time. Adding some crafty clipped pedals and period bar tape.

Not a bad deal for a $40 investment...



















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Old 08-03-10, 09:36 PM
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Wow....zombie thread.

Tell ya the truth, build new wheels and maybe change the crankset. That bike already has the absolute best working, most wonderfully engineered parts that were available in the year it was made, bar none.

You can send me the drivetrain and shifters if you don't want them!

I might change to a pair of aero levers, they were available in the early-mid 80's.
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