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Broke my Fixed cup, what to do?

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Broke my Fixed cup, what to do?

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Old 09-07-15 | 02:46 PM
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Broke my Fixed cup, what to do?

I'm a beginner bike mechanic. I commute around on an old Raleigh Super Record. I noticed the crank bearings didn't feel good, and I have never opened them. (For all I know they've never been opened.) So today I opened up the bottom bracket to re-grease the bearings. Of course I had to use the Sheldon method to get the fixed cup off, but it looks like a loose bearing got caught up in it, and now there's a divot in my fixed cup.

What should I do? Can I buy a new fixed cup? Replace the whole assembly with a sealed bearing?

Thanks,
Jim
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Old 09-07-15 | 02:50 PM
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Spindles and cups are getting hard to find. By and large, there are sealed square taper bottom brackets that work very well with most square taper cranks and are a lot easier to install and remove.
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Old 09-07-15 | 02:58 PM
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Welcome to BF ! What yr is your Raleigh ?
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Old 09-07-15 | 02:58 PM
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I'm not sure if your Raleigh Super Record would have used a proprietary (Raleigh 26 tpi) threading on your bottom bracket. Someone who is more expert than I should come along shortly.

Do you happen to know the threading on this bottom bracket? Standard vs Raleigh?
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Old 09-07-15 | 03:01 PM
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Take you old bottom bracket to a local bicycle shop and ask for a cartridge replacement. They should (hopefully, will) ensure that you get the right thread size and spindle length. You might need a special tool to install the bottom bracket, if it is the modern cartridge one. If that is the case, buy the tool, ask to borrow the tool, or get the shop to install the bottom bracket. They should not charge much, since the old one is already removed.
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Old 09-07-15 | 03:19 PM
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1. I have no idea what year my Railegh is. I've always kind of wondered. I'm guessing early 80s. The Serial number is N1E0215 if that tells you anything. I got it at a garage sale for $25 almost 10 years ago, so I've probably put at least 10K miles on it.

2. I don't know if the threading is standard or not. I also took apart my Bianchi Mixte from a similar era. The Bianchi had a slightly smaller bottom bracket with 3 notches from the lock nut, which seemed more standard as my Park Tool spanner was able to fit the 3 notches side. The Railegh lock nut was slightly larger, and had 4 notches, so I had to use the single notch side of the spanner.
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Old 09-07-15 | 03:21 PM
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A picture or two of three of the parts and the bike are worth a 1000 words or so they say.
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Old 09-07-15 | 03:27 PM
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Sure, what would you like pictures of? The bottom bracket? The serial number? The threading and lock nut?
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Old 09-07-15 | 03:32 PM
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Bikes: 1982 Trek 613, 1988 Panasonic MC 2500, 1981 Schwinn Super Sport, 1975 Raleigh Super Course MKII, 1985 Miyata 210

Pics of the whole bike will help date it to determine what type of threading the bottom bracket uses. If it uses Raleigh's proprietary threading, replacement will be more difficult.
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Old 09-07-15 | 03:34 PM
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I normally don't remove the fixed cup when servicing a conventional type bottom bracket. But I guess it's good that you did in this case. If I were you, and you're interested in the bike as a rider, and not a collector, I'd probably go ahead and install a sealed cartridge bottom bracket, since the existing bottom bracket appears to be toast (if it turns out that the frame is threaded standard and not Raleigh).
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Old 09-07-15 | 04:07 PM
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OK, Here's every picture I thought anyone would care about: Raleigh - Album on Imgur
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Old 09-07-15 | 04:09 PM
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A Super Record would make it an early 1980s intro-level 10 speed with standard British threading. Any fixed cup will do. I'd just pop back in a fixed cup and reassemble the bottom bracket with new grease. Change the ball bearings, too, given that you just smashed one.

Double check your serial number. The codes are here: Raleigh Serial Numbers & Charts

Edit: Should be a 1981 model 'The Headbadge' - Vintage bicycle information
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Old 09-07-15 | 04:10 PM
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FWIW, I can send you a bottom bracket sans spindle for shipping, if that's the way you want to go. You'll need to clean it up.
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Old 09-07-15 | 04:15 PM
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Thanks that's great info, and your offer is very kind. (I assume "bottom bracket sans spindle" just means the fixed, adjustable cup, and bearing cages?) Let me get back to you as I have to take my kids somewhere now.
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Old 09-07-15 | 04:26 PM
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Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.

The telling photo is the one that says "made in Japan" so it has a standard 1.37 x 24T bottom bracket, not a proprietary one like on the much older Raleighs.

They are common as dirt and can be found in numbers on the big auction site, your local co-op (cheapest way to go), and even many bike shops that still wrench on old bikes. Or you can get a cartridge type bottom bracket that fits the same, but you'll need the special tool (about $10) to get it in.

Edit: or just take up TimmyT's offer He's got what you need.
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Old 09-07-15 | 06:04 PM
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Unless I'm misinterpreting what I'm seeing with my own eyes, I don't even see an issue here. If that's an indentation, it appears to be outside the actual bearing race surface. Is that a loose bearing or a small divot in the pic? Isn't the bearing race on the outside of whatever the anomaly is?

DD
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Old 09-07-15 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
Unless I'm misinterpreting what I'm seeing with my own eyes, I don't even see an issue here. If that's an indentation, it appears to be outside the actual bearing race surface. Is that a loose bearing or a small divot in the pic? Isn't the bearing race on the outside of whatever the anomaly is?

DD
By george DD, I believe you are right...it sure does look like it would be outside the bearing surface...probably won't hurt to replace it...but...you could always put some BB's in there and see if you feel the indentation when turning it...
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Old 09-07-15 | 06:51 PM
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By 1981 I'd suspect your Raleigh would have standard English thread bottom bracket cups, but this particular cup style did also come in Raleigh's proprietary 1-3/8" x 26tpi thread as well:



Any chance you could try threading a known, English thread cup into the shell? If it works, great, you have an English thread bottom bracket, and all is well in the universe. If it doesn't, then you need to explore other options, i.e. sourcing 1-3/8" x 26tpi cups or using a threadless cartridge.
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Old 09-07-15 | 11:27 PM
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TimmyT: Apparently I can't send private messages yet, so if you're willing to send me that bracket, please send me your email I guess.
I double checked the serial number, it really is N1E0215. No site seems to be able to interpret it. I guess that "1" could suggest the bike was made in '81, but the other online information says Raleigh didn't make bikes in Japan until '83...

I'm not the only one with that kind of serial number: https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...erial%20number

DD: I was happy to find you are correct, the divot does not appear to effect the bearings at all. Unfortunately there are some cracks at the damaged area, so I think I should still replace it. The situation isn't quite so desperate though, I can get rolling for now. Thanks!

JohnDThompson: The only other bracket I have around is on a Bianchi Mixte from the early 80s. I'm pretty sure it was also Japanese made. If it fits in I suppose that would verify it's all in English measurements? All the parts on both bikes are SunTour.
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Old 09-08-15 | 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by bikemig
A picture or two of three of the parts and the bike are worth a 1000 words or so they say.
+1. Take a picture of the other side of your fixed cup. It will likely tell us everything we need to know. Many people will probably have something which will work in their parts stashes.
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Old 09-08-15 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jrleek
TimmyT: Apparently I can't send private messages yet, so if you're willing to send me that bracket, please send me your email I guess.
I double checked the serial number, it really is N1E0215. No site seems to be able to interpret it. I guess that "1" could suggest the bike was made in '81, but the other online information says Raleigh didn't make bikes in Japan until '83...

I'm not the only one with that kind of serial number: https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...erial%20number

DD: I was happy to find you are correct, the divot does not appear to effect the bearings at all. Unfortunately there are some cracks at the damaged area, so I think I should still replace it. The situation isn't quite so desperate though, I can get rolling for now. Thanks!

JohnDThompson: The only other bracket I have around is on a Bianchi Mixte from the early 80s. I'm pretty sure it was also Japanese made. If it fits in I suppose that would verify it's all in English measurements? All the parts on both bikes are SunTour.
Good deal. Too bad the cracks will still cause you to replace, but good that you can keep it on the road while you search for the correct replacement part(s)

DD
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Old 09-14-15 | 11:55 AM
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Thanks to TimmyT, I was able to get everything fixed up. Here I am doing the initial test ride.
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Old 09-14-15 | 12:01 PM
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Looks good with the million dollar smile.
I'm glad it worked out.

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