Chrome restoration
09-08-15 | 03:01 AM
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2014
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From: Capestang, France
Bikes: Lots of French, some British and a couple of Italian
Chrome restoration
I posted this in the thread with the Carré/Caffi, but it seems to have sunk. Has anyone tried rattlecan chrome to restore (at least visually) really bad old chrome? I know about the aluminium foil method, but the frame needs something more hardcore than that. As ever, opinions welcome!
09-08-15 | 03:29 AM
#2
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
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From: Capestang, France
Bikes: Lots of French, some British and a couple of Italian
09-08-15 | 04:55 AM
#3
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From: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
Doesn't blow my kilt up. Imitating chrome plating always looks phony, in my opinion. Of course, if the chrome is really shot, give it a try - what does one have to loose, by doing so. But if the chrome isn't really shot, you might not want to make it worse by preparing for and then painting the impacted area.
Just an opinion.
Just an opinion.
__________________
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
09-08-15 | 05:59 AM
#4
Get off my lawn!
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 6,035
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From: The Garden State
Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman
There is only one solution for wasted chrome......new chrome plate
I'd be concerned no so much for the visual but for the rust the could be underneath the Chrome. I've had ends done for just about $100.
I'd be concerned no so much for the visual but for the rust the could be underneath the Chrome. I've had ends done for just about $100.
Last edited by Velognome; 09-08-15 at 06:04 AM.
09-08-15 | 10:55 AM
#5
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From: Port Angeles, WA
Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 09-08-15 at 10:59 AM.
09-08-15 | 03:40 PM
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 781
From: Saint Paul, Minnesota
Bikes: '08 Look 585, '07 Kuota Kebel, '80s Alan Peitsch
Have you considered powder coating? There is a guy I have used for powder coating a few frames. He charges $60 for frame and fork if I deliver the frame stripped. There are some chrome powders that look pretty good and will last longer than rattle can.
09-09-15 | 11:45 AM
#8
Thrifty Bill
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,642
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From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
I'm in the midst of a frame rust campaign right now. I've got frame #3 in the bath, and have 3 more to go. First two were both full chrome bikes. On one, the chrome is gone (along with the rust) in the BB area. Been thinking about touching up the area with chrome model paint. Sure, it will look like touch up,but the area is mostly obscured by the FD and crankset, and I will disclose fully to the next owner. If I leave it unprotected, rust will return (bare metal).
09-09-15 | 01:47 PM
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Saint Paul, Minnesota
Bikes: '08 Look 585, '07 Kuota Kebel, '80s Alan Peitsch
I found a nail polish that works fairly well that you could try on the BB shell. It is OPI (brand) Push and Shove. You put down a clear base and then the chrome top coat. I have used it on a stem, brifters and a fork to touch up areas where it is discolored. I found it at TJ Maxx for $3.99.
I'm in the midst of a frame rust campaign right now. I've got frame #3 in the bath, and have 3 more to go. First two were both full chrome bikes. On one, the chrome is gone (along with the rust) in the BB area. Been thinking about touching up the area with chrome model paint. Sure, it will look like touch up,but the area is mostly obscured by the FD and crankset, and I will disclose fully to the next owner. If I leave it unprotected, rust will return (bare metal).
09-09-15 | 02:00 PM
#10
Fat Guy on a Little Bike
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 15,946
Likes: 371
From: Philadelphia, PA
Bikes: Two wheeled ones
Doesn't blow my kilt up. Imitating chrome plating always looks phony, in my opinion. Of course, if the chrome is really shot, give it a try - what does one have to loose, by doing so. But if the chrome isn't really shot, you might not want to make it worse by preparing for and then painting the impacted area.
Just an opinion.
Just an opinion.
The older I get the less I like chrome.
09-10-15 | 07:38 PM
#11
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: TORONTO , ONT , CA
Bikes: '86 AMBROSI / C RECORD. PINARELLO MONTELLO / FRAME, FORK.
According to Jay Leno . . .
Spray-On Chrome - Jay Leno?s Garage | Tune.pk
Bear in mind, that the parent metal is being covered by a "coating of paint" and depending upon as to how thick they (2) they are,
will depend upon how "perfect" the cleaning/pre-buffing has been. Better to have a smooth, uniform surface so that there are no
"dimples" or other untowards with the finished product.
Regards,
J T
Spray-On Chrome - Jay Leno?s Garage | Tune.pk
Bear in mind, that the parent metal is being covered by a "coating of paint" and depending upon as to how thick they (2) they are,
will depend upon how "perfect" the cleaning/pre-buffing has been. Better to have a smooth, uniform surface so that there are no
"dimples" or other untowards with the finished product.
Regards,
J T
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