Is upgrading a nice old frame "bad?"
#26
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Yes performance probs. the frame is awesome. And I won't be f---ing it up. The only change will be spreading to 130mm. It's my main bike. jist ordered 105 10spd STI and compact double cranks. New wheels and cassette next.
#27
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It depends. If you want a "good" bike then upgrading makes perfect sense. Reynolds 531 never really built a good bike to begin with. That tube set has been around since the 1930s. Its forgiving of frame building mistakes and poorly aligned and lugged tubes can be bent and forced into shape on the jig.
The good stuff is Reynolds 753, 853, 921, 931, and 953. The problem is most frame builders are hacks and can't work with the good stuff. Most US frame builders couldn't manage to pass certification to build 753 bikes. A Reynolds 753 bike will weigh about 1.5 lbs less than a 531 bike and be incomparably stiffer and have more heavenly ride qualities due to the thin wall steel tubing. Its not the flexy boat anchor 531 that can be bent to correct for frame building sloppiness. You can't even cold set a 753 bike. Its that stiff and strong. Which is why most people have never heard of it. The average "master frame builder" is anything but, and most "steel is real" bike builders use steel for reasons of how easy it is to fabricate with steel and how cheap it is, not because the tubing they use builds the best bikes.
So if all you know is 531, then yes upgrade. Find a grown-up frame builder and learn that the false narrative that 531 is the good stuff is just self-validating hooey. If you can't let yourself discover the performance paradigm of a vintage Klein, a vintage or modern Cannondale, or anything modern carbon, then at least graduate to a performance steel bike with the good Reynolds tube sets. Reynolds 531 was a "good" tube set in 1935, not really since.
Think 753 and up, but be prepared to discover your favorite frame builder may not be capable of building with good steel.
Reynolds Technology
The good stuff is Reynolds 753, 853, 921, 931, and 953. The problem is most frame builders are hacks and can't work with the good stuff. Most US frame builders couldn't manage to pass certification to build 753 bikes. A Reynolds 753 bike will weigh about 1.5 lbs less than a 531 bike and be incomparably stiffer and have more heavenly ride qualities due to the thin wall steel tubing. Its not the flexy boat anchor 531 that can be bent to correct for frame building sloppiness. You can't even cold set a 753 bike. Its that stiff and strong. Which is why most people have never heard of it. The average "master frame builder" is anything but, and most "steel is real" bike builders use steel for reasons of how easy it is to fabricate with steel and how cheap it is, not because the tubing they use builds the best bikes.
So if all you know is 531, then yes upgrade. Find a grown-up frame builder and learn that the false narrative that 531 is the good stuff is just self-validating hooey. If you can't let yourself discover the performance paradigm of a vintage Klein, a vintage or modern Cannondale, or anything modern carbon, then at least graduate to a performance steel bike with the good Reynolds tube sets. Reynolds 531 was a "good" tube set in 1935, not really since.
Think 753 and up, but be prepared to discover your favorite frame builder may not be capable of building with good steel.
Reynolds Technology
#28
Senior Member
Von Stively, If updating will enhance the riding experience of a particular bike, then it's never a bad thing. Taking care of some maintenance issues and also modifying the bike to your current desires is just killing two birds with one stone. Have fun with the wrenching and riding.
Brad
Brad
#29
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I ride a 1979 trek 710 full 531 bike. It's time to replace some drivetrain parts as they are old. Been riding it over a decade now.
I'm thinking of spreading the frame and doing a full upgrade. STI, new cranks, brakes, wheels. Even new shallow drop bars.
My question isn't one of value. The frame kicks ass and I can't afford a new frame set like this. I just like the bike and working on bikes and I think this thing would be nice upgraded.
My question for you classic minded guys is am I committing some sort of historic crime? I wrestle with selling this bike intact to a person who likes classics and getting something like a Soma ES almost weekly.
I'm thinking of spreading the frame and doing a full upgrade. STI, new cranks, brakes, wheels. Even new shallow drop bars.
My question isn't one of value. The frame kicks ass and I can't afford a new frame set like this. I just like the bike and working on bikes and I think this thing would be nice upgraded.
My question for you classic minded guys is am I committing some sort of historic crime? I wrestle with selling this bike intact to a person who likes classics and getting something like a Soma ES almost weekly.
Is it "bad" or an "historic crime"? No.
You said you don't have the money for a new frame but your list of changes are going to cost serious money - new cranks, new brakes; frame spreading, indexed shifting, new STI levers,... I understand, ... I think.
So, basically, you no longer like the bike you have.
Why not clean it up and sell it as-is to someone who would appreciate it for what it is. Add the proceeds to your "upgrade" budget and buy something different - used but with the newer technology you seem to be after.
Why not replace the worn part with period-correct replacements and ride it as it was designed?
#31
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I have no idea what a Soma is, so here's what I think. Buy the new bike, I think it will make you feel better / faster(? I hope). I hate that feeling when I go and spend a bunch of money and the gain is little and wish I coulda, shoulda. Now as far as spread the drop outs is concern, its no big deal. Im a building contractor, I always tell my clients, do the remodel or build the custom house for yourself, not remodel for the folks you will sell the house to. I don't like to see hacked up road frames, but its your bike, do as you see fit even if it means painting a perfectly good frame. I am painting one of my old one with my company name on it. That name will be better and worth more to me then any famous frame builder out there. I raced on lots of steel bike in the past many years, but the new ones seem to always ride better, feel faster then the older ones ( i like to think) for some strange reasons. Hey, that's just me thinking out loud, so the most important is me, and that goes for you too. As far as the mystery frame is concern, let em figure it out. A Trek ( I had a couple myself) is a Chevy, its never going to achieve Ferrari status, speed aside.
Last edited by look171; 10-19-15 at 12:15 AM.
#32
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Is it "bad" or an "historic crime"? No.
You said you don't have the money for a new frame but your list of changes are going to cost serious money - new cranks, new brakes; frame spreading, indexed shifting, new STI levers,... I understand, ... I think.
So, basically, you no longer like the bike you have.
Why not clean it up and sell it as-is to someone who would appreciate it for what it is. Add the proceeds to your "upgrade" budget and buy something different - used but with the newer technology you seem to be after.
Why not replace the worn part with period-correct replacements and ride it as it was designed?
You said you don't have the money for a new frame but your list of changes are going to cost serious money - new cranks, new brakes; frame spreading, indexed shifting, new STI levers,... I understand, ... I think.
So, basically, you no longer like the bike you have.
Why not clean it up and sell it as-is to someone who would appreciate it for what it is. Add the proceeds to your "upgrade" budget and buy something different - used but with the newer technology you seem to be after.
Why not replace the worn part with period-correct replacements and ride it as it was designed?
#33
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It's your bike. Do what you want.
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The corollary to this is upgrading to modern stuff. If you follow the thread I started recently that summarizes my conversion of a 700c Katakura Silk to 650b, you'll also notice that most of the components were switched over to modern stuff - if the objective, as it was in my case, is to be sensitive to the aesthetic of the bike while improving the usability of it, it's very do-able.
The point being, do what you need to do to make the bike a rider for you - not me, or anyone else. We've got our own toys to play with and will be happy to regale you with opinions, but those opinions won't make your bike one little bit better for you.
#36
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Outside of something like a 50s Ephgrave, an early Ritchey, a 60s De Rosa, or a Rene Herse, upgrade away.
#37
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While I tend to be an "originalist"...i.e. I want my bikes as original as possible...I am coming to understand having a variety! If the bike is truly collectible in some way/shape/form, then I tend to be originalist. I also tend to be a period correct type person on non-collectibles...i.e. my Tommasini Super Prestige has approximately period correct Campy (that is the other thing...I like culturally correct as well...no Shimano on Italian bikes!).
Other than that...it is more a build as you see fit...I am even coming to see that some of my bikes may need non-period correct.
But...seriously consider it before you make non-reversible changes. Anything that involves cutting braze on's off or etc...please don't...
As for repainting...it is only original paint once...but...there are times/bikes where changing the paint is ok...
So...sum it up...your bike...your way...
Other than that...it is more a build as you see fit...I am even coming to see that some of my bikes may need non-period correct.
But...seriously consider it before you make non-reversible changes. Anything that involves cutting braze on's off or etc...please don't...
As for repainting...it is only original paint once...but...there are times/bikes where changing the paint is ok...
So...sum it up...your bike...your way...
#38
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I guess I view it like this - if you bought a De Rosa in 1974 and destroyed a rim in 1987, would you have hunted for an original rim? I don't think so - you'd use a better rim from 1987. It's nice to restore them to period correct as a hobby, but I don't think its a crime not to - especially when so many modern consumables are so much better! There are exceptions, but not very many. I wouldn't cold set anything overly nice.
#39
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It depends. If you want a "good" bike then upgrading makes perfect sense. Reynolds 531 never really built a good bike to begin with. That tube set has been around since the 1930s. Its forgiving of frame building mistakes and poorly aligned and lugged tubes can be bent and forced into shape on the jig.
The good stuff is Reynolds 753, 853, 921, 931, and 953. The problem is most frame builders are hacks and can't work with the good stuff. Most US frame builders couldn't manage to pass certification to build 753 bikes. A Reynolds 753 bike will weigh about 1.5 lbs less than a 531 bike and be incomparably stiffer and have more heavenly ride qualities due to the thin wall steel tubing. Its not the flexy boat anchor 531 that can be bent to correct for frame building sloppiness. You can't even cold set a 753 bike. Its that stiff and strong. Which is why most people have never heard of it. The average "master frame builder" is anything but, and most "steel is real" bike builders use steel for reasons of how easy it is to fabricate with steel and how cheap it is, not because the tubing they use builds the best bikes.
So if all you know is 531, then yes upgrade. Find a grown-up frame builder and learn that the false narrative that 531 is the good stuff is just self-validating hooey. If you can't let yourself discover the performance paradigm of a vintage Klein, a vintage or modern Cannondale, or anything modern carbon, then at least graduate to a performance steel bike with the good Reynolds tube sets. Reynolds 531 was a "good" tube set in 1935, not really since.
Think 753 and up, but be prepared to discover your favorite frame builder may not be capable of building with good steel.
Reynolds Technology
The good stuff is Reynolds 753, 853, 921, 931, and 953. The problem is most frame builders are hacks and can't work with the good stuff. Most US frame builders couldn't manage to pass certification to build 753 bikes. A Reynolds 753 bike will weigh about 1.5 lbs less than a 531 bike and be incomparably stiffer and have more heavenly ride qualities due to the thin wall steel tubing. Its not the flexy boat anchor 531 that can be bent to correct for frame building sloppiness. You can't even cold set a 753 bike. Its that stiff and strong. Which is why most people have never heard of it. The average "master frame builder" is anything but, and most "steel is real" bike builders use steel for reasons of how easy it is to fabricate with steel and how cheap it is, not because the tubing they use builds the best bikes.
So if all you know is 531, then yes upgrade. Find a grown-up frame builder and learn that the false narrative that 531 is the good stuff is just self-validating hooey. If you can't let yourself discover the performance paradigm of a vintage Klein, a vintage or modern Cannondale, or anything modern carbon, then at least graduate to a performance steel bike with the good Reynolds tube sets. Reynolds 531 was a "good" tube set in 1935, not really since.
Think 753 and up, but be prepared to discover your favorite frame builder may not be capable of building with good steel.
Reynolds Technology
Since the OP states that his frame "kicks ass", I would presume he's quite satisfied with it. While it might be true that he could find that one of the framesets you suggested "kicks ass more", it doesn't sound like he's looking to send his current frame out to pasture. Perhaps he has already tried bicycles made of the tubesets you've suggested. Perhaps not. Perhaps you've stirred something in him and he's made a mental note to try it out some day. Perhaps not. In any event, we can (and do) often give opinions, but the convincing is in the riding.
One thing that is worth noting is the huge role that wheels and tires can play in how a bicycle feels. If, some of the "magic" seems to depart after re-imagining your frame's build, that could be the reason why.
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#40
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Someone (not me) posted once that the people who bought and actually rode early 70's Raleigh Internationals immediately changed parts on them. The ones you can find now that are original weren't really ridden. I see posts now and then from people who are "horrified" to see someone make a "frankenbike" out of one today. There's a lot of other vintage bikes in that category.
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#41
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I've based my daily commuter on a 72 Raleigh Super Course. The only thing original besides the frame is the headset (darn 26 tpi)
#42
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Like others, I prefer to keep upgrades relatively period-correct, though upgrades to more modern components can be done responsibly. Anything safety related, I'd recommend. I also tend to stay culturally "correct," though that doesn't mean as much on a Trek, perhaps. I shy away from spreading the rear dropouts but to each their own - it would open up some possibility to you. Someone once recommended I go aero (brake-wise) on a new build, and afterward, I felt the old non-aero Mafacs worked a lot better. Sometimes it takes experiencing both to realize what you want or need. Same with saddles, give me an old one before any new Specialized...
There are a lot of fantastic new bikes out there. Soma makes great bikes. However, 531 steel isn't all that common despite so many of us on C&V that own such bikes. It's still better than the majority of bicycle frames out there, its a fact.
There are a lot of fantastic new bikes out there. Soma makes great bikes. However, 531 steel isn't all that common despite so many of us on C&V that own such bikes. It's still better than the majority of bicycle frames out there, its a fact.
Last edited by Camplex; 10-20-15 at 07:48 AM.
#44
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Here's my upgraded commuter...a lowly 87-ish Peugeot (really not sure of the model) The only original bits are the frame, fork, fenders, rack and kickstand (which one of these days is coming off!). The only thing I have changed since I took these pictures were the saddle and bar tape. Switched to a C 17 and matching Cambium tape. I'm quite happy with it!
#45
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Hi Folks,
Thought I'd follow up with what wound up happening. Lots of great thoughts posted here. Thanks.
I wound up building a whole new bike. Went with the Soma ES. It's very nice. Fits 32c with room for more! Did a 2x10 compact double, 12-30 in the rear, mostly 105 build. Velocity A23 rims. Very happy with it. Put about 300 miles on it the past month or so. Love the STI.
Wish posting a picture was more intuitive on this site. It's sharp looking too.
Bad thing is now I have garage art. My old trek is now sitting upstairs with no hits on Craigslist.
Thought I'd follow up with what wound up happening. Lots of great thoughts posted here. Thanks.
I wound up building a whole new bike. Went with the Soma ES. It's very nice. Fits 32c with room for more! Did a 2x10 compact double, 12-30 in the rear, mostly 105 build. Velocity A23 rims. Very happy with it. Put about 300 miles on it the past month or so. Love the STI.
Wish posting a picture was more intuitive on this site. It's sharp looking too.
Bad thing is now I have garage art. My old trek is now sitting upstairs with no hits on Craigslist.
#46
Senior Member
I ride a 1979 trek 710 full 531 bike. It's time to replace some drivetrain parts as they are old. Been riding it over a decade now.
I'm thinking of spreading the frame and doing a full upgrade. STI, new cranks, brakes, wheels. Even new shallow drop bars.
My question isn't one of value. The frame kicks ass and I can't afford a new frame set like this. I just like the bike and working on bikes and I think this thing would be nice upgraded.
My question for you classic minded guys is am I committing some sort of historic crime? I wrestle with selling this bike intact to a person who likes classics and getting something like a Soma ES almost weekly.
I'm thinking of spreading the frame and doing a full upgrade. STI, new cranks, brakes, wheels. Even new shallow drop bars.
My question isn't one of value. The frame kicks ass and I can't afford a new frame set like this. I just like the bike and working on bikes and I think this thing would be nice upgraded.
My question for you classic minded guys is am I committing some sort of historic crime? I wrestle with selling this bike intact to a person who likes classics and getting something like a Soma ES almost weekly.
#47
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Hi Folks,
Thought I'd follow up with what wound up happening. Lots of great thoughts posted here. Thanks.
I wound up building a whole new bike. Went with the Soma ES. It's very nice. Fits 32c with room for more! Did a 2x10 compact double, 12-30 in the rear, mostly 105 build. Velocity A23 rims. Very happy with it. Put about 300 miles on it the past month or so. Love the STI.
Wish posting a picture was more intuitive on this site. It's sharp looking too.
Bad thing is now I have garage art. My old trek is now sitting upstairs with no hits on Craigslist.
Thought I'd follow up with what wound up happening. Lots of great thoughts posted here. Thanks.
I wound up building a whole new bike. Went with the Soma ES. It's very nice. Fits 32c with room for more! Did a 2x10 compact double, 12-30 in the rear, mostly 105 build. Velocity A23 rims. Very happy with it. Put about 300 miles on it the past month or so. Love the STI.
Wish posting a picture was more intuitive on this site. It's sharp looking too.
Bad thing is now I have garage art. My old trek is now sitting upstairs with no hits on Craigslist.
I seriously *just* posted about how great the old 531 Trek tourers/sport tourers are.
What's even funnier- in this thread I railed against brazing, chopping and drilling... and in the other thread I said I'd love to find a thrashed one and get stuff brazed on to it.
I hope your new bike makes you as happy as the Trek has made you over the years. Best of luck in selling it, or best of luck in upgrading it to 9 speed Dura Ace (hint hint)
Regarding posting pix... If you've got Photobucket, you can click on the "IMG" link on the right side- it'll automatically copy the link and you can paste that into the thread.
If you're using pix from your computer- click on the little picture icon above the text box in a reply field. Click on "Select Files" and point it at wherever you have the pix stored (your My Pictures folder or desktop or wherever.)
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Last edited by The Golden Boy; 01-10-16 at 02:40 PM.
#48
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#49
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They are really great. As I thought about though I wanted more tire clearance in back. Trek 710 is maxed at 28c. Some say 32c but that would be so close.
I figure the bike will move on to its new person this spring. I've loved it for its " historic" appeal and ride.
I figure the bike will move on to its new person this spring. I've loved it for its " historic" appeal and ride.
#50
Senior Member
I love my Trek 610 sport touring frame. This past week I decided to strip the paint and repaint (the paint is not original). Discovered that a prior owner knocked off the cable guide braze-ons. Now that's a crime! Also noticed that the derailleur hanger was rewelded on.