Bike Forums - Trek 710 project

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Quote:

Originally Posted by engineerbob (Post 18612085)

The combination of the metal cable guide and the extreme angle of the cable (due to using a modern FD) resulted in more friction than I considered acceptable. Today, I drilled and tapped the BB shell for an under-shell cable guide.

I agree with going under the BB. Usually I just route the cables through a length of modern indexing lined cable housing like Jagwire and let the cable tension hold it in place. I also have frames where the cable is designed to just run on the bottom of the BB shell, sometimes with a little guide groove machined into the BB shell surface.

Grunge build-up seems to be the main failure mode, just needing periodic cleaning.

BITD the weights of fully DB Brit and Italian frames with full Campy equipment and tubulars was hard to find below 22 # or so. The devil is in the details. One detail is that Trek seems to have used a thicker-wall downtube than most Reynolds customers. Reynolds literature says the DTs could be 8/5/8, 9/6/9, or 10/7/10 at various times and with different variants. Trek, per its literature, says they used 10/7/10 in this time frame. So even with the same build, your Trek is not going to match, say, a Mercian of the same vintage.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmh657 (Post 18472166)

Yep. My '81 716 has a 5700 group on it and no problem putting the rear wheel in. It has no seat tube decal or any trace it was ever there but the paint is quite nice. Go figure. I like running the 32's on it.

http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/z...psd66d95f3.jpg

Wow, that looks almost exactly like my 1978 700-whatever, even in the same frame size! Wish I had the original fork, though...

Mine has 105 cranks, D/A derailleurs, Campy friction downtube shifters, tubulars (2 wheelsets, one is an old Montreal rimset), Brooks narrow saddle, 600 brakes.

Nice touch-up work!

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...1&d=1459372501
What bars are you running?

Quote:

Originally Posted by engineerbob (Post 18612085)

this is a good solution in my opinion. Note that in your previous post the cable is not properly affixed to the derailleur, it should be seated in the small grove which can be seen in the photos.

Well... I hate to say it but now that you're just about done, is that where you're keeping the saddle and stem? Because it looks like this bike is quite a bit undersized for you based on that photo.

If you get crazy and want to sell it, let me know. Unfortunately I don't have any 56cm bikes on hand at the moment. But if you like nice riding bikes, check out RobbieTunes' Ironmans. They aren't made for touring, but could be built up as 650b rides and you could get some pretty fat tires on there. Tange #1 is a pretty sweet ride.

Thought those might be Nitto bars.

JUst make sure you get a good powdercoater because there is amazing work being done today. Forever powdercoating in Olympia Washington does perfect jobs yes I said perfect almost indistinguishable from paint even hand striping. The powdercoat should show the lugs with sharp edges.
I have a 910 and well I am going to wax it and keep the paint as long as possible. But if I had to repaint I would powdercoat for sure. http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...rek-910-a.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by engineerbob (Post 18650564)

I think that you are correct. Although I initially believed a 21" frame was my size, I now would prefer a 22.5" frame. I'll ride it and continue to look for a larger 700-series frame.

It's been a learning experience.

Bob

You may want to even try a 24" size Trek. You have a ton of seatpost showing there. I ride a 22.5" 1982 Trek 614 with the top of my saddle at 72 cm from the center of the BB spindle. The fit is perfect for me. You might want to measure your saddle height and see how that compares. A "fistful of seatpost" suggests a pretty ideal fit on a frame like these old Treks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by engineerbob (Post 18680251)

The 710 was completed two days ago. After a few miles of testing, I taped the bars today.

At the risk of bragging, I really like how this build turned out. The frame is stable on the fast descents I encounter around here, but it also feels responsive. I doubt that anyone would describe the frame as feeling dead.

As has been pointed out, a larger frame would probably be a better fit. The current seat post and stem appear to be extended too far. OK, but it does not feel cramped.

The crank is a Sugino with 26-36-46: even spacing that with a Sora triple FD shifts better than I expected. I’m glad that I routed the cable under the BB.

The cassette is a nine-speed 12-36 Hyperglide controlled by a long-cage Deore RD and DA bar-end shifters. Again, better results than I expected.

The dual-pivot Tektro calipers are strong and quiet. No complaints.

I will be eager to see how the 720 compares. Yes they both have full 531 frames, but it would not surprise me if the 720’s is stiffer due to its intended use as a touring bike.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=515069 http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=515070

My 720 and my 730 are ENTIRELY different.

Where the 730 is much more 'lively' and 'springy' the 720 is much more stable, as much as you can compare them. Compared to my 620, the 720 is more "springy," and it's a bit more of a fair comparison- with pretty much the same geometry.

I find that Trek geometry to be ultimately comfortable, to the point that bikes with shorter top tubes feel 'alien' to me. It takes a while to get adjusted.

If you do run into another Trek frame that fits you- I'll take you up on the offer to buy the frame/fork it! :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by engineerbob (Post 18565779)

Serial number: 002822, which seems to indicate 21" 1981 710.

Bob

Resurrecting an old thread.

I have a 24" 1981 710 serial number 002263. I've had it since it was new and it's repainted a darker blue metal flake.