The which Bianchi is this game....
#1
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The which Bianchi is this game....
Sorry - multiple threads on this - am trawling through them - but not finding anything clear - so thought I would be a pain in the rump and start a new one....
Picked up a Bianchi Brava in celeste - which seems to be in reasonable condition from an older gentleman who seemed to know his things bicycle things (more than me
)
Serial number is 682492 - I'm pretty certain that this serial number means that it's one of the Taiwan made models - based on previous comments about the serial number format - despite the "Made in Italy" sticker
And as per comments in other threads, "Taiwan / Italy, pffft, who cares"
My questions are:-
Anyone got any clues on approximate age?
Brakes are Modolo America - is that something like original, or has someone upgraded...?
Forks are Bianchi Formula Columbus - seem to be original, but...?
Saddle - SelleRoyal Mach, I presume that is non-standard - seat post is standard (has the cutouts in it)
I'm gradually falling in love with this bike - and I haven't even ridden it yet, damn these bikes are like a mobile work of art
Thank you all for any information
Picked up a Bianchi Brava in celeste - which seems to be in reasonable condition from an older gentleman who seemed to know his things bicycle things (more than me
) Serial number is 682492 - I'm pretty certain that this serial number means that it's one of the Taiwan made models - based on previous comments about the serial number format - despite the "Made in Italy" sticker
And as per comments in other threads, "Taiwan / Italy, pffft, who cares"My questions are:-
Anyone got any clues on approximate age?
Brakes are Modolo America - is that something like original, or has someone upgraded...?
Forks are Bianchi Formula Columbus - seem to be original, but...?
Saddle - SelleRoyal Mach, I presume that is non-standard - seat post is standard (has the cutouts in it)
I'm gradually falling in love with this bike - and I haven't even ridden it yet, damn these bikes are like a mobile work of art

Thank you all for any information
#3
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2004
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Pending photos, the serial number, Bianchi Formula tubing and Modolo America brakeset would almost certainly indicate a 1986 Brava. 1986 was the first first year for the Bianchi Formula tubesets, though the specs indicate Formula II tretubi with Aelle forks. The components were SunTour Sprint derailleurs with Modolo America brakes and Ofmega crankset, hubs and pedals. The spec saddle was a Selle Royal Mundialita. The lead character in the serial number probably represents the year of manufacture, making it either a 1986 model or a 1987 model manufactured in late 1986. However, the 1987 model was full Shimano New 105, so a 1986 model remains the best candidate.
#5
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,397
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From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Welcome to the wonderful world of vintage Bianchis. Edoardo Bianchi (Edward White) made some great stuff.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#7
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So this is the beast in question...

Had a quick ride last night and the gears slip - below I've added a picture of the rear crank set - before I drag myself off to the wrench(er) - does it look like anything dreadful...?

Thank you ever so much everyone - its nice to find a welcoming forum on the dreaded interwebs.... (particularly when one is in the process of learning)....
Had a quick ride last night and the gears slip - below I've added a picture of the rear crank set - before I drag myself off to the wrench(er) - does it look like anything dreadful...?
Thank you ever so much everyone - its nice to find a welcoming forum on the dreaded interwebs.... (particularly when one is in the process of learning)....
#8
Still learning

Joined: May 2012
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From: North of Canada, Adirondacks
Bikes: Still a garage full
Slip? Defaulting to smallest cog in back? If so, tighten the screw at the shifter so it doesn't slip.
The adjustable handlebar stem, has to go, so fugly.
The adjustable handlebar stem, has to go, so fugly.
#11
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2004
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Seeing the pics corroborates my earlier 1986 model appraisal, though it has been updated with a circa 1988 Chorus rear derailleur with the adjustable parallelogram angle, an adjustable stem, new saddle and ATB pedals. I've never seen a fender routed over the brake caliper! I think that may top the stem.
Regarding the slipping gears, the tension screw on the levers, as suggested by oddjob2, if the first thing I'd look at. A misaligned hanger, as suggested in the previous post is another possibility. It could also be stiff chain link, worn or sticking freewheel pawls, or a combination of new chain with an old freewheel (or vice versa). The worst scenario would be a cracked frame which can excessive flex and resultant ghost shifting.
Regarding the slipping gears, the tension screw on the levers, as suggested by oddjob2, if the first thing I'd look at. A misaligned hanger, as suggested in the previous post is another possibility. It could also be stiff chain link, worn or sticking freewheel pawls, or a combination of new chain with an old freewheel (or vice versa). The worst scenario would be a cracked frame which can excessive flex and resultant ghost shifting.
#12
Bianchi Goddess


Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
Is it, as OJ (not the murderer) ask dropping to the smallest cog or is a worn chain slipping over worn cogs?
Be very careful removing those Ofmnega cranks. I stripped the threads on my drive arm. The BB spindle bis as funky size so hopefully it is in good share
Be very careful removing those Ofmnega cranks. I stripped the threads on my drive arm. The BB spindle bis as funky size so hopefully it is in good share
#13
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It been to the local wrench, who sorted out the bent derailleur - its better, but is still slipping around in the middle gears.....
It behaves itself in top and bottom (so to speak) - so me thinks that points to:-
1) Take the chain off and soak it / replace it
2) Try and find a replacement rear set - any advice / links much appreciated, as the wrench said "can't get them, John" (but in Swedish)
3) Get silly and replace the whole hub with a more up to date 6 gear setup (but then we are into spending money) and presumably that's going to be fun finding one that doesn't need me to change the wheel / wheels as well...?
Its rideable, just needs some persuasion to settle down and stop slipping between gears - considering my power riding skills (not) - its liveable with.
I had forgotten just how much more complex it is, changing gear with the selectors on the up-tube - gives one a new respect for the olden days.... (wobble, grab for gears, wobble etc <= me) and they did it at speed as well...
I am very grateful for all the help - I wish I could provide some help in return....
It behaves itself in top and bottom (so to speak) - so me thinks that points to:-
1) Take the chain off and soak it / replace it
2) Try and find a replacement rear set - any advice / links much appreciated, as the wrench said "can't get them, John" (but in Swedish)
3) Get silly and replace the whole hub with a more up to date 6 gear setup (but then we are into spending money) and presumably that's going to be fun finding one that doesn't need me to change the wheel / wheels as well...?
Its rideable, just needs some persuasion to settle down and stop slipping between gears - considering my power riding skills (not) - its liveable with.
I had forgotten just how much more complex it is, changing gear with the selectors on the up-tube - gives one a new respect for the olden days.... (wobble, grab for gears, wobble etc <= me) and they did it at speed as well...
I am very grateful for all the help - I wish I could provide some help in return....
Last edited by Oddnewfi; 03-29-16 at 03:23 AM.
#14
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2004
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Current symptoms suggest a wear issue, either the middle cogs are relatively unworn but the chain is worn, or the middle cogs are worn and the chain is relatively new. I suggest you read the chain and cog wear article of Sheldon Brown's site to try to determine which situation you have.
Chain Maintenance
In a lot of cases it is possible to simply flip over the worn cogs to extend their use. This assumes the cog does not have an integral spacer and is not a profiled HyperGlide style with built in ramps. At worst you will have to buy a new freewheel and/or chain. This is an inevitable and routine situation. Depending on amount of use, riding condition and maintenance intervals, it is possible to wear out a chain well within a year and cogs in 2-3 years. I suggest you invest in a chain wear indicator and remover for your chosen brand of freewheel. Given typical labour rates at an LBS, they will have paid for themselves after one or two uses.
Chain Maintenance
In a lot of cases it is possible to simply flip over the worn cogs to extend their use. This assumes the cog does not have an integral spacer and is not a profiled HyperGlide style with built in ramps. At worst you will have to buy a new freewheel and/or chain. This is an inevitable and routine situation. Depending on amount of use, riding condition and maintenance intervals, it is possible to wear out a chain well within a year and cogs in 2-3 years. I suggest you invest in a chain wear indicator and remover for your chosen brand of freewheel. Given typical labour rates at an LBS, they will have paid for themselves after one or two uses.
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