The Compass "Maes" bar:
https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/co...54-handlebars/




This is a side view of my B132 Bars on my Schwinn Voyageur SP:




The Nitto B177 have that bend backwards right at the turn from the tops to the ramps. The Nitto B132 raises up as it goes into the ramps, and the ramps and lower portion of the drops are pretty parallel, but they're flared out some.

B132:


As Chas mentioned- I think it makes the most sense to measure bars at the hoods- The B177 at 44 will feel much wider than say, a B132 at 44 because the drops don't flare out as much.

I do like the B177, I do like the B132- I wish the B132 was wider at the hoods. I think I'm going to try for the Maes bars- I like that look, but I'd like to know how wide they are between the hoods. However the B132, B135, B136, B176 and B177 are the Nitto bars I seem to have the most interest in.

And a cockpit view of the B177 on my Trek 620:

I feel like the flats and drops are more parallel on the 132 and 135 than on the 177. Do others agree? I have each of these in use and really like the rando bars; have not ridden the Noodles as much yet. Between the 132 and 135 I prefer the latter, although I'd be hard pressed to say what the difference is. Anyone know? Other than "3" which is obvious.

Thanks @The Golden Boy
Also found the V.O. Grand Cru Course bars are nice and flat with parallel drops, flared, and long drops, etc. and they look pretty nice too...
Thinking seriously about them...



According to a review on amazon I was reading:

Yes- I agree-

I seem to not have any decent side pix of my Trek 620 with the B177s on there.

A bit more info for the mix. The shape/curves of that B132 are also very similar to the '80s Sakae Ringyo Randonneur bars I salvaged off a Schwinn sumptin-r-another and now have on my Ersatz Gran Prix. Tops rise a bit from the clamp and the ramps are parallel with the drops - the drops flare out a inch or so. Comfortable and plenty of room to move my hands around, shifting positions frequently to prevent numbing. However I also have Sakae Ringyo Road Champions on two other bikes. I like the Randonneur bar but its is not better, just different.

My Ersatz f/f was once a Gitane so it has a "22.0" steerer tube - actually closer to 22.1mm ID. I wanted to use a 22.2 stem so I got out the sand paper. I was pleased at how little time it took to fit that stem. I sanded the section below my intended insertion point so what still shows above the nut looks just fine. I used an old piece of strip sander belt (about 1" wide) to work the stem then used 220 grit to finish. Of course the stem was not actually round, a bit oval, as expected, so I sanded a bit then fit the stem into the steerer. Pulled it back out and sanded the rub marks, which were the 'high spots' - much like fitting a new shovel handle to an old shovel head. Sand, sand, test fit and turn, pull it out and sand the rub marks. Repeat. It may have taken 15 to 20 minutes all together and that stem now is custom fit to my steerer. Works just great.

Oh, one other thought . I also do not race nor ride hard nor 'crank the handlebars' BUT life deals out surprises. When you least expect it you'll hit a buckle in the pavement/trail from a tree root, or a frost heave, or a rail track or a curb (even at the dip for wheel chairs) or a pot hole or have to cross cobble stones or washboard. Those significant shocks, even at low speed, can trigger the stem or bar failures others have mentioned above. Riding 'slowly' with a bunch of old duffers like me does not ensure you'll not have a problem. Think carefully.

I love my Noodles. They are what I use on pretty much everything. I'm a big boy, so I use 46's or 48's, but I see no reason why they would not be great across the entire range of sizes. Go for it. If you don't like them, you can get most of your cost back selling them.

After reading all this stem and bar advice, I'm now scared to death to ride the bike. It seems imperative to take out the Pivo stem from the LeJeune. I have to find out if it has the dreaded expansing crack leading inexorably toward the other saw cut. Which, of course,will, if not thwarted by drilling the small hole in the lengthening crack to stop its progress and therefore saving me the large dental bills.....lol

As I have continued to refurbish/rehab my old LeJeune TDF, I have mentioned several anecdotes referring to the young LBS guy who shows absolute disdain for c/v bikes. I have come to believe his disdain is really ignorance of the genre and how to work on them.

Most recent story is about installing full brake hoods to replace original Mafac 1/2 hoods. I purchased full gum RUSTINES from Velo orange. They'll go pretty well the Brooks b17 and attendant tool bag. Didn't want to spend the exorbitant amount on NOS. they'll be fine. So, went to the lbs guy again to give him another chance. Asked about putting new bar tape on since I was redoing the hoods. Also asked whether I could cover the original white tape that is already there and still quite usable. His comment was that since it is obviously something more like electrician's tape rather than bar tape, he would remove it and replace it with all new tape. My tape is original as is evidenced by pix of [MENTION=208016]seypat[/MENTION] original 1973 LeJeune TDF......I know he's wrong, but I just said, "OK, thanks a lot." I also asked if I could replace the hoods without removing the brake cables. He said no, I would have to remove the brake unit and release the harness in the back and pull slack, rehhood, and then retighten everything back up. Is he correct, or is there a way to loosen up front and leave rear settings alone. Seems like something I should be able to do while on my "learning curve" about bike maintenance.......any help is greatly appreciated as always.....

thanks guys

That could be true. Maybe you should try another shop if that's an option. When is was a teen in the 80s working at a LBS, I was always stoked when some cool old 60's Bianchi or Hetchins or whatever rolled in.

Mafac Racers don't have slots in the piece that hold the cable end in the lever, so your LBS is right, they'll need to pull the cables. Probably time to inspect them and freshen up the grease anyway. It's pretty trivial to put them back exactly like they were. Don't worry about it.

The Rustines hoods are nice. Real rubber just like the originals plus they're not all dried out and crusty. I wouldn't be surprised if they subcontracted the original Mafac hoods anyway. I can't imagine there's that many rubber molding companies in france that specialize in bike stuff.

I am not an expert on those particular levers, but generally speaking I regret that I have to agree with the young dufus. Your best chance of getting new hoods on without tearing them is by way of removing the lever from the bar and coaxing the hood on from the back. Wet it first and keep a spray bottle handy.

I would really encourage you to learn to do at least this level of work yourself. It doesn't require much mechanical aptitude, mostly just patience and care.

Actually if by "brake unit" your mechanic is saying that you must remove the lever, that is totally wrong. It's really completely unnecessary. If they were 40 year old stock, I might do that as a precaution, but with the new ones there's no point. I am very experienced, btw.

I just put a set of full hood Rustines on my Mafacs last week, and they go on easy. I would recommend some soapy water, which will make them slip right on.

The Noodle has some sweep to the tops. I think Randonneur shape bars have a more significant sweep.

I believe that sweep is more comfortable than straight because it aligns with the joints in your wrists, elbows and shoulders better. It's quite pronounced on mountain bikes - I've gone from 0 deg BITD to between 8 and 11 degrees now.