How to protect derailleur hanger when shipping frame?
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Evanston, IL
Bikes: many
How to protect derailleur hanger when shipping frame?
How do you protect a derailleur hanger when shipping a frame? Searching Google was not really any help. The only thing I found was "remove your derailleur hanger when shipping a frame." That's fine for modern frames, but not so useful for older frames.
I should point out that I know about protecting the rear triangle and fork. I generally throw in a cheap axle secured with nuts, possibly a quick release if necessary. I'm interested in protecting the hanger itself.
Thx...
I should point out that I know about protecting the rear triangle and fork. I generally throw in a cheap axle secured with nuts, possibly a quick release if necessary. I'm interested in protecting the hanger itself.
Thx...
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#5
my recollection, aided by a picture here or two, is that I added a few layers of corrugated cardboard under the dropout and chainstay for protection....

I also glued layers of corrugated cardboard into the corners of the box as reinforcement.
This Raleigh International was being shipped to Jason Nunemaker (on the I-bob list). You can ask him about how excessive the packaging was.
Steve in Peoria
I also glued layers of corrugated cardboard into the corners of the box as reinforcement.
This Raleigh International was being shipped to Jason Nunemaker (on the I-bob list). You can ask him about how excessive the packaging was.

Steve in Peoria
#6
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From: Hurricane Alley , Florida
Bikes: Treks (USA), Schwinn Paramount, Schwinn letour,Raleigh Team Professional, Gazelle GoldLine Racing, 2 Super Mondias, Carlton Professional.
I cut a piece of wood for both fork and rear. Use screws and big washers. The frame gets wrapped in A/C foam insulation and a second layer on the head tube, seat tube opening and bottom bracket.
#7
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From: Evanston, IL
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Thanks for the responses. Being the impatient type, I went ahead and experimented. Here's what that region looks like. I'll probably throw a little bit of pipe insulation around it to discourage it from seeking an exit through the bottom of the box.
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#8
I'd suggest adding material under the chainstay to prevent anything from ever touching the hanger.
Steve from downstate
#9
A few BF members can account for how I pack. I use a box-in-box method.
Basically, a process: Find a pair of boxes that fit inside the bike box. Add strategic slits in each, slide the head tube into one box, slide the rear dropouts into the other so the bike is forced into a good position with both ends safely off the ground and away from the outside of the box. If necessary, add additional boxes under those boxes for elevation. Then drop a foam block under the BB shell, and boxes or foam around the bike as necessary for added support. I normally put foam around the tubes and fork blades, then zip-tie the fork to the DT with the blades positioned around the ST, and if I have a plastic retainer, I'll drop it between the front dropouts, but usually find that's unnecessary, frankly. If you're really concerned, you can tape a 1x2 or 2x4 between the rear dropouts after you insert them into the box.
I've (knock on wood) never had a problem with frame damage. Even with the best, most professional bike packing I've received frames/bikes with damage using methods similar to those posted on YouTube and even here at the forum.
Basically, a process: Find a pair of boxes that fit inside the bike box. Add strategic slits in each, slide the head tube into one box, slide the rear dropouts into the other so the bike is forced into a good position with both ends safely off the ground and away from the outside of the box. If necessary, add additional boxes under those boxes for elevation. Then drop a foam block under the BB shell, and boxes or foam around the bike as necessary for added support. I normally put foam around the tubes and fork blades, then zip-tie the fork to the DT with the blades positioned around the ST, and if I have a plastic retainer, I'll drop it between the front dropouts, but usually find that's unnecessary, frankly. If you're really concerned, you can tape a 1x2 or 2x4 between the rear dropouts after you insert them into the box.
I've (knock on wood) never had a problem with frame damage. Even with the best, most professional bike packing I've received frames/bikes with damage using methods similar to those posted on YouTube and even here at the forum.
#10
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Port Angeles, WA
Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.
Block o' styrofoam. Just gouge at it with a big knife or screwdriver to slot some holes for both dropouts and jam them in there. If you're clever, you have pre-cut the block to match the inner width of the shipping box.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●





