qcpmsame 

I think that those shoes turned out nicely, this could solve my shoe problem I posted on. Not even sure of the model of my Adidas shoes, most likely a 2007 model, but their sole would look similar to the OPs, save the fact mine are the aluminum weave in a matrix, stiff as can be. If I could just solve the issues with the bottom Velcro straps now.

Bill

steelbikeguy

going slightly off topic.... I wonder if the Lyotard Berthet pedals were intended for a touring style slotted cleat? These are a bit before my time, but not much. I've used T.A. nail-on cleats such as the #38 Anquetil model. I've never used or seen their #40 Turino touring model, though. As the illustration below shows, they were not as thick as the metal cleats, and seem like a nice match for the shallow recess of the Berthet pedals.



This image is from the 11th edition of the Cyclo-Pedia catalog, which can be seen on Mark Bulgier's site:
Cyclo-Pedia '74

Steve in Peoria

GordoTrek

and what i really like about this, if the shoe starts to pull apart or degrade in any bit, you should be able to fix them rather quickly. GOOD JOB!

Oldpeddaller

Back in 1972-3 I used Berthet Lyotard pedals with TA (no. 36 in the diagram) slotted cleats (or 'shoe plates' as they were then known), nailed and epoxy glued to the leather soles of my Padova Sport Italian cycling shoes. No issues whatsoever. Wish I could say the same for my modern carbon Look pedals and cleats! Sadly I threw those shoes away years ago

tyler_fred

I thought I would try my hand at this with a pair of old Giro Republic SPD shoes. I wanted to be able to use these shoes with standard toe clips and straps; however, I could not find the Five Ten resole rubber. I improvised with some thinner rubber from Amazon, thinking that I would be pedaling more than walking. I removed the bolt-on walking pads on the fore foot and trimmed down the sole flush using an oscillating tool. Afterwards I sanded the sole and the rubber with coarse sandpaper, and then glued with Shoe Goo. The rubber shoe sole easily pulls the pedal up and backwards to allow the shoe to enter the clip/strap/pedal. Unfortunately I have not ridden with them yet, so I can't attest to their durability.

RobbieTunes

I would love to see how this comes out. I have several toe-clip bikes, no shoes yet that seem to work worth a bean.

cs1

I really like where this thread is going.

79pmooney

I've removed the straps for Lake shoes (they fit my feet super well) and installed grommets. ($15 for everything you need,including laces at Tandy Leather.) I ride Exustar aluminum track cleats on those shoes (3-bolt LOOK compatible). Basically good traditional racing shoes. With laces, I have no issues with the toestraps, even pulled tight for serious fix gear climbing. I do have to tailor the lacing to miss the high bony bulges in my right foot that got severely aggravated by years of using the same shoes with straps.

On another pair of shoes, I had a cobbler build up sole material around the cleat so walking on slippery surfaces isn't treacherous nor do I wear the cleats or damage good floors. Works really well. (Those shoes are my city shoes. Still have straps. I did ride Cycle Oregon fixed to Crater Lake on them. Worked very well except that was the start of my foot/strap issues that sent me to many doctor's visits.

Re: protection at the top of the shoes - traditional laced shoes had none. Just a thin tongue under the laces. I raced them and never saw a need for more. Don't see a need now. But I will not even consider doing a hard ride fixed on my straped shoes. (Aside - I only ride toeclips and straps on my fix gears. Pulling a foot of a pedal at 40+ mph is one of my ongoing nightmares. I've uncleated with toeclips on those descents but those wonderful toestraps keep everything in place. Touch the brakes, slide my foot forward and all is good. I tried clipless fixed with my first pair. Pulled out going ~18mph and crashed hard.)

Edit: RobbieTunes, my cleated shoes are just as good as clipless when I pull the straps tight. (I ride no-float on my clipless so I am loosing nothing there.) In fact, nice leather straps improve the feel when puling up and allow me to ride with slightly looser laces
.
Ben

nomadmax 

THAT is top shelf OP. Well done!!!!

tyler_fred

After a few hundred miles, my modified Giro Republics show no signs of failing, and I find them very easy to walk in too. I only wish that I had modified them sooner.

Salamandrine 

A little late to this, but FWIW I had Lyotard Berthet pedals on my touring bike BITD. They worked fine with slotted cleats. They were designed for cleats -- unlike the modern copies of this pedal. They also are comfortable with regular shoes because of the large surface area.

I used to wear Duegi racing shoes on tour with those pedals, because I was used to them. They had plastic cleats but I'd imagine older style nail on TA metal cleats would be OK too. Running shoes for walking around camp were strapped on under the bungee cords.

63rickert

If toe clips bother your toes use a washer or a stack of washers between clip and pedal. Presumably before you get this far there is a cleat mounted and the shoe is not going to slide further forward and keep interfering with clip.

If the problem is clip against top of shoe first remedy is to bend the clip up. Clips will bend a lot. There is a limit. Clips aren't going to work with bulky thick soled shoes. There is also a limit on huge feet. In the classic era of toe clips size 14 shoes were rare. The system is not designed for you if you have very large feet. It might be possible, you will have to work at it.

Have used multiple sets of #23 Berthet pedals with a variety of cleats. What problem? What does happen with those old pedals is the rivet heads at four corners of the top plate wear down. Once rivet head is gone the pedal comes apart. Short life span on those.

SamSpade1941 

I am always impressed with the level of skill that people in this forum have at modifying and improving existing kit . Some amazingly awesome skill sets.