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What have you been wrenching on lately?

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What have you been wrenching on lately?

Old 11-03-20, 02:42 PM
  #3701  
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Originally Posted by jim dandy
Got around to shooting some photos of the Cannondale I just finished ...
Here goes ...
JD

[snip]

2001 Cannondale Caad4 R600
I am super confused. Shimano never made a hidden bolt crank, did they? Looks like a Sugino XD,
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Old 11-03-20, 02:52 PM
  #3702  
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Originally Posted by JaccoW
Standard 32mm wrench. They go for about €16 at the local DIY/hardware store here. They seem to scale up in size.

Not sure where you could get them in the US?
Likely a 1-1/4" wrench will also work (equivalent to 31.75mm), although it might fit tightly on some marques of BB tool. Usually this much slop is built into the system. 0.25mm too tight is not a lot. I've done this with car stuff, because large sockets and wrenches are always cheaper in inch sizes here, and often I think they are the same exact forgings as their metric counterparts from the same manufacturer.
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Old 11-03-20, 03:58 PM
  #3703  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc
Just bought one off Amazon...about that price. If I can't get the cup out with that, I give up.

And of course, as I speak, another seized project...this time a Dura Ace 7 speed freewheel on a Dura Ace hub.
Here's what to try if that doesn't work, it will use that wrench for the cheater.

A piece of pipe works better and can of course be longer.

This setup is going the wrong way but is the same in reverse.

It has never failed, hurt, ruined any tools, frames, paint, parts, pieces or flesh, ever.




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Old 11-03-20, 07:27 PM
  #3704  
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I actually broke the ears off of a park 32mm wrench trying to leverage the Shimano cartridge tool...oops. They are not meant to be wrenches of that sort. I have a Shimano cartridge unit tool that is bolted onto the spindle (non drive side) and cup which shouldn’t put extra friction since they are one unit...so the cup and cartridge should be disinstalled counter clockwise together. The only thing I can think of is that it is further squishing the two together but it is only snugged to reduce play.

i might install some wheels to get a better hold on the frame.

Originally Posted by merziac
Here's what to try if that doesn't work, it will use that wrench for the cheater.

A piece of pipe works better and can of course be longer.

This setup is going the wrong way but is the same in reverse.

It has never failed, hurt, ruined any tools, frames, paint, parts, pieces or flesh, ever.




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Old 11-04-20, 07:06 PM
  #3705  
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Prepping a to offer a frameset and attached components for sale.
got a spiffy used Brooks in the mail today from jethin
and my trail bike kept dropping the chain where my pie plate should be. Nuts.
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Old 11-05-20, 06:13 AM
  #3706  
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Took the day off yesterday and built myself one of these...



...to squeeze into my shed...
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Old 11-09-20, 01:13 AM
  #3707  
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Of the two available cage spring tension positions, I have always used the lower one for every Nuovo Record rear derailleur I've used. But, for whatever reason, it wasn't working properly on my latest build, this '72 Torpado. When I abruptly stop pedaling on a small rear cog, the chain would go slack and rub the front derailleur, a noise made much worse when hitting a bump at the same time -- often the reason for the pause in pedaling in the first place. I'm hoping the higher tension position will keep the chain tight. Pretty easy job, with the most difficult part being the removal of all cable slack, which, for me, is just trial and error.


...
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Old 11-09-20, 10:32 PM
  #3708  
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa
Of the two available cage spring tension positions, I have always used the lower one for every Nuovo Record rear derailleur I've used. But, for whatever reason, it wasn't working properly on my latest build, this '72 Torpado. When I abruptly stop pedaling on a small rear cog, the chain would go slack and rub the front derailleur, a noise made much worse when hitting a bump at the same time -- often the reason for the pause in pedaling in the first place. I'm hoping the higher tension position will keep the chain tight. Pretty easy job, with the most difficult part being the removal of all cable slack, which, for me, is just trial and error.


...
I always attributed that chain sag effect to a freewheel or cassette not spinning freely enough when you stop pedaling. Never thought of it as a symptom of spring tension. Interesting! Riding home in the semi-dark tonight, I was thinkin’ on it: never thought about how the drive side bearings in a cassette hub have to spin faster all of the sudden when you stop pedaling. A little off topic, but deep thoughts, ya know.
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Old 11-11-20, 06:01 AM
  #3709  
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Frame block to remove some dents. I will be trying this again some time with a better construction (2 well fitting blocks instead of trying to saw it in half) and a sligtly smaller drill but the effect is visible.




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Old 11-11-20, 07:22 AM
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Recently acquired this 1965 Moulton bike. Completely disassembled, every nut and bolt and part cleaned. Powdercoated the frame a cream colour, new tires, new Sturmey archer crankset, new 5 speed sturmey archer 5 speed hub, new sealed BB, new cables, new brooks saddle, newer flat bars and stem, original wheels and brakes.
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Old 11-11-20, 08:21 AM
  #3711  
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Finally working on the 1984 Trek 760 bought in 2014 as an incomplete project with franken build. Ratty frame condition in terms of finish. Started a thread on it. https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...d-finally.html

Current, toay, state.
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Old 11-13-20, 04:09 PM
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Ta-da...


Just got the freebie girl’s Raleigh ct-200’s Altus c-10 shifter working as designed...just needed access, a spritz of wd-40, and an old dental pick to get that itty bitt pawl moving freely...
My new to me Park Tool extreme range clamp put the bike right where it needed to be in my all of a sudden crowded shop...three MTBs with their arms stretched out!





Last edited by billnuke1; 11-13-20 at 04:16 PM. Reason: More pics...
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Old 11-13-20, 06:24 PM
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Just starting this CBS\Tony Hoar build, it's a 531 frame.
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Old 11-14-20, 05:27 AM
  #3714  
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Fourth shifter iteration on my buddy Danny's Diamond Back. He's now into riding after buying the bike new in the early '90s and hopes to hit 1,000 miles before the end of the year so I do what I can to keep him going. Original early RapidFire was replaced by GripShift MRX with the non-indexed front but hand problems made front shifting difficult so we switched to indexed MRX on the front. This week he's been saying he can't shift to the big ring and it turned out not to be the bike so I dug out some old XC thumbies and tried the left one in place of the MRX.

Test ride was encouraging so we'll see how this goes. He can use his whole palm to shift if he needs to and I showed him how to tweak the fit if he needs to move the shifter around for better reach. Also installed a new Cateye Padrone wireless computer to replace the old no-name one that's losing its display. He gets to trim off the excess strapping and calibrate it.
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Old 11-14-20, 06:52 AM
  #3715  
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Started a drop-bar conversion with this Stumpjumper. Curious frame rub on the DS chainstay. Its as if the rider had been riding through muck and debris and it had gotten caught in the crank and he just kept riding without removing it. Weird.



I'm going to try to match the paint and spray just that area. Will post results when I do.

Okay here it is. Ace hardware "Banner Red" paint. I cleaned up the area with a scotchbrite pad, and hit it with a nice coat. Looks okay from 10 feet. Its not awesome by any means, but its protected at least.


Upon further examination and reflection, it appears to me that this scarring was the result of some serious chain suck. Biopace rings were installed and they were beat to hell and back.

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Old 11-14-20, 10:13 AM
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A little Red Ryder Rockhopper gets some refreshing.
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Old 11-14-20, 08:50 PM
  #3717  
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Just finished this ParkPre today. First venture into replacing the elastomers in a shock. Very easy job and feels great. Pretty cool early 90's ride.
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Old 11-15-20, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. 66
A little Red Ryder Rockhopper gets some refreshing.
I guess you're firmly in the "saddle forward, nose up" camp. Horses for courses....😅
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Old 11-15-20, 01:12 PM
  #3719  
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I've been working on a Raleigh Competition G.S. from 1980 I found in a basement with a few of the original parts. I had to remove all the paint and that meant several bad rattle can jobs and a couple of quite professional paint jobs, as well as what little was left, after umpteen layers, of the original Raleigh laquer. More on this when I get this a bit more complete.

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Old 11-15-20, 01:38 PM
  #3720  
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Been collecting the little bits....

.....and at night, polishing away the grey on a battered Triomphe crankset ( from @Lascauxcaveman ), tho’ still not finished.

So almost ready to finalize the first build. May need a narrower BB for a double crankset - that’s the wrenching question to be tested with 3 double options. Maybe I need a triple with this 122mm spindle!?!

Here are two of the crank options. A third option is a VeloOrange 46/30 (deeper in the storage so no pic yet).

but first the bike, again.


This is the No Drive Side Picture. To confuse @T-Mar

Neither crank is era appropriate. Campa matches Gran Sport ders + shifters. Thun is German as is the frame/fork. Pictured is GS der option, but Turismo or a Huret Svelto is also possible.

Here is the scratched Triomphe, before beginning the polishing work, which still is not finished.

Either crankset seem on obvious choice???
Let me find a photo of the VeloOrange, for fair comparison

All opinions appreciated.
The brakes are Universal,
levers Galli, Ambrosio stem, 3TTT bars. Huret Svelto or Campa GS.
Tubular wheels will also not be early 60s.

edit to add a picture of the VeloOrange crankset on a previous build.


please pardon mismatched tires.

Last edited by Wildwood; 11-15-20 at 02:14 PM.
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Old 11-15-20, 01:55 PM
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Fixie project for student

One of my kids had his bike stolen and is going through a tough time...so I quickly searched for a replacement to get him...found a challenged repainted tank with decent bones and wheels.

using some polishing compound to turn the matte to semi gloss...then bought an accessory pack and chain at WM... might try to go straight bar for him.


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Old 11-15-20, 08:13 PM
  #3722  
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Volvo P80 subframe bushings. Lucky for me, they have plastic shells, so they're easily cut to remove. Surprisingly, the best way to get them out is with a cordless drill up the side. Strange little buggies, Volvos...
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Old 11-15-20, 09:56 PM
  #3723  
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@Wildwood, I'd continue polishing that messy grey residue from the Triomphe (been there) and put it on the Harding or another bike. The chainrings looks great. A Gran Sport crankset would be my choice for the Rickert. Maybe Rick in Shoreline has one. He's got everything else.
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Old 11-15-20, 10:27 PM
  #3724  
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Just finished setting this up for my dad.



I was going to ride it in stock form, but came to realize that it didn’t do anything better than my late 90’s mtb. The original Araya rims were just not doing it for me in the braking category. So, I took some better wheels, crank, and bb from another estate sale bike I bought over the summer, did a 1x9 setup, and a tall stem, et voila. He’ll put the seat down a little, the bars will be up high, the gearing is real easy; I think he’ll like it.
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Old 11-16-20, 02:14 AM
  #3725  
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Stripped it to the bare frame for a thorough cleaning and flat bar conversion.
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