C&V Inspired: I made a frame
08-09-16 | 05:50 AM
#26
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 956
Likes: 40
From: Holland
Bikes: 2007 Nagasawa with C-Record, 1992 Duell with Croce D'aune/Chorus, three Gazelles, M5 recumbent
It was a lot of fun to build my own frame, I learned a lot. Because it was the first time I did brazing, I did not build a fork.
I did made a mistake with the geometry, but the bike is rideable.
Here is the bare frame:
And build up with Shimano 105 and a rattle can paint job.
I did made a mistake with the geometry, but the bike is rideable.
Here is the bare frame:
And build up with Shimano 105 and a rattle can paint job.
08-11-16 | 07:29 PM
#28
Abuse Magnet
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,881
Likes: 188
From: Colorado
Bikes: '91 Mtn Tek Vertical, '74 Raleigh Sports, '72 Raleigh Twenty, '84 Univega Gran Turismo, '09 Surly Karate Monkey, '92 Burley Rock-n-Roll, '86 Miyata 310, '76 Raleigh Shopper
That's a beautiful bike.
08-24-16 | 06:49 PM
#29
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,898
Likes: 229
From: Bronx, NYC
Bikes: '19 Fuji Gran Fondo 1.5, '72 Peugeot PX10, '71ish Gitane Super Corsa, '78 Fuji Newest, '89 Fuji Ace, '94 Cannondale R600, early '70s LeJeune Pro project
[MENTION=159546]smallpox champ[/MENTION] I have a question for you. I am also going to use the Stronglight compact crank on a build very shortly and I wanted to confirm the BB spindle length that you used. I read that 110mm is the measurement but I am not certain.
08-24-16 | 09:23 PM
#30
I AM AI
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,289
Likes: 1,171
From: Tucson, AZ
Bikes: 2008 S-Works Roubaix SL, 1979 Raleigh Comp GS, 1978 Schwinn Volare
That is effing awesome. And I agree with the previous poster who suggested no paint, just clearcoat. But whatever route you go, there was never a more appropriate time for this emoji:
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
08-25-16 | 01:00 AM
#31
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
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Bikes: '84 specialized expedition, '87 specialized sirrus, '84 specialized stumpjumper sport
[MENTION=384048]greg3rd48[/MENTION] I used 107mm, as recommended on the manufacturer website: Stronglight - impact compact
I'm not a stickler about chainline, it shifts well, but the q-factor is a little on the high side, like most modern Sugino cranks from what I've read.
I'm not a stickler about chainline, it shifts well, but the q-factor is a little on the high side, like most modern Sugino cranks from what I've read.
08-25-16 | 09:35 AM
#32
Bike Butcher of Portland
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 12,487
Likes: 8,057
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: It's complicated.
From what I hear, durable clear coat does not exist. I've asked about clearcoat to a few local framebuilders, a couple of wet painters, and a powder coater. I'm not a paint engineer, perhaps someone else can comment on this. If one existed, I'm sure we'd see several examples on the interwebs.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
08-25-16 | 10:43 AM
#33
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Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 6,280
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From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 78 Masi Criterium, 68 PX10, 2016 Mercian King of Mercia, Rivendell Clem Smith Jr
I think that is right. I know a couple framebuilders that have tried clear coat only several times, and the frames always started rusting before too long. They all had to be repainted.
I guess if a rough looking bike is important to your personal sense of aesthetics, and you don't mind that it will eventually rust through and die, it doesn't matter. I once considered rescuing an old frame from the San Francisco bay that was covered in barnacles. Now that would have been funny to ride, if a bit unsafe.
I guess if a rough looking bike is important to your personal sense of aesthetics, and you don't mind that it will eventually rust through and die, it doesn't matter. I once considered rescuing an old frame from the San Francisco bay that was covered in barnacles. Now that would have been funny to ride, if a bit unsafe.
08-26-16 | 01:36 PM
#36
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 754
From: Kingdom of Hawai'i
Bikes: Peugeot, Legnano, Fuji, Zunow, De Rosa, Miyata, Bianchi, Pinarello, Specialized, Bridgestone, Cinelli, Merckx
Inspiring.
For years I hoped to get to the point where I am now WRT working on bikes. Next stop is where you are.
Thanks for sharing.
For years I hoped to get to the point where I am now WRT working on bikes. Next stop is where you are.
Thanks for sharing.
08-26-16 | 02:25 PM
#37
I AM AI
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,289
Likes: 1,171
From: Tucson, AZ
Bikes: 2008 S-Works Roubaix SL, 1979 Raleigh Comp GS, 1978 Schwinn Volare
[MENTION=381793]gugie[/MENTION], [MENTION=424205]Salamandrine[/MENTION] Well that's a bummer. But you've enriched the knowledge of several people at least. 
__________________
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
08-26-16 | 03:19 PM
#38
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,898
Likes: 229
From: Bronx, NYC
Bikes: '19 Fuji Gran Fondo 1.5, '72 Peugeot PX10, '71ish Gitane Super Corsa, '78 Fuji Newest, '89 Fuji Ace, '94 Cannondale R600, early '70s LeJeune Pro project
@greg3rd48 I used 107mm, as recommended on the manufacturer website: Stronglight - impact compact
I'm not a stickler about chainline, it shifts well, but the q-factor is a little on the high side, like most modern Sugino cranks from what I've read.
I'm not a stickler about chainline, it shifts well, but the q-factor is a little on the high side, like most modern Sugino cranks from what I've read.
11-28-19 | 09:11 AM
#39
1/2 as far in 2x the time
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,744
Likes: 289
From: Northern Bergen County, NJ
Bikes: Yes, Please.
Thanks all.
[MENTION=139746]sloar[/MENTION] I did not use a jig, just surface plate, blocks, and pinned lugs.
[MENTION=348240]Bad Lag[/MENTION], gugie is right, it's 56% silver for the lugs, and 45% for the braze-on's, which is slightly more yellow.
[MENTION=304131]realsteel[/MENTION] I used a basic "light" tube set from here: ROAD TUBESET 8/5/8 TT AND DT :: TUBE SETS :: Nova Cycles Supply Inc.
With 16mm stays and round chainstays. The complete frame is 1920g, and the fork 700g.
[MENTION=381793]gugie[/MENTION] I did it with the guidance of the wealth of information available online from generous people. Many pdf manuals, image galleries, youtube videos, and forum posts. After some coaching with the torch, the rest was research and practice, cutting tubes with a hacksaw and files, and figuring out what tool should be the next purchase. Originally I practiced fillet brazing, wanting to make a fast fat 26er, but after practicing with silver decided to make a traditional frame first. This frame used a surface plate and tube blocks to line up the main triangle. The lugs were bent and fit, then drilled and pinned while the tubes were clamped down to the plate, and the joint brazed on the work stand. The rear triangle was hung over the edge of the plate and a dummy axle held like so:
The fork needed a makeshift jig which resulted in it being slightly off spec, my next purchase will be aluminum extrusion to make a proper fork jig.
[MENTION=139746]sloar[/MENTION] I did not use a jig, just surface plate, blocks, and pinned lugs.
[MENTION=348240]Bad Lag[/MENTION], gugie is right, it's 56% silver for the lugs, and 45% for the braze-on's, which is slightly more yellow.
[MENTION=304131]realsteel[/MENTION] I used a basic "light" tube set from here: ROAD TUBESET 8/5/8 TT AND DT :: TUBE SETS :: Nova Cycles Supply Inc.
With 16mm stays and round chainstays. The complete frame is 1920g, and the fork 700g.
[MENTION=381793]gugie[/MENTION] I did it with the guidance of the wealth of information available online from generous people. Many pdf manuals, image galleries, youtube videos, and forum posts. After some coaching with the torch, the rest was research and practice, cutting tubes with a hacksaw and files, and figuring out what tool should be the next purchase. Originally I practiced fillet brazing, wanting to make a fast fat 26er, but after practicing with silver decided to make a traditional frame first. This frame used a surface plate and tube blocks to line up the main triangle. The lugs were bent and fit, then drilled and pinned while the tubes were clamped down to the plate, and the joint brazed on the work stand. The rear triangle was hung over the edge of the plate and a dummy axle held like so:
The fork needed a makeshift jig which resulted in it being slightly off spec, my next purchase will be aluminum extrusion to make a proper fork jig.
11-28-19 | 11:28 AM
#40
Sunshine
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 18,744
Likes: 10,299
From: Des Moines, IA
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
1.25" tubing that has .058 walls and 1.125" tubing that has .035 walls.
The .058 tubing is about as thick as a lug and the .035 tubing is basically the thickness of typical 8/5/8 tubing.
11-28-19 | 11:30 AM
#41
Mr. Anachronism
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,110
Likes: 293
From: Somewhere west of Tobie's
Bikes: fillet-brazed Chicago Schwinns, and some other stuff
[MENTION=159546]smallpox champ[/MENTION] , did you ever paint this?
I would guess that epoxy clear would work for preserving the metal after careful prep.
It would likely yellow in time, but many would just see that as patina.
I would guess that epoxy clear would work for preserving the metal after careful prep.
It would likely yellow in time, but many would just see that as patina.
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"My only true wisdom is in knowing I have none" -Socrates
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11-28-19 | 11:17 PM
#42
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 154
Likes: 61
Bikes: '84 specialized expedition, '87 specialized sirrus, '84 specialized stumpjumper sport
C&V inspired custom lightweight 650b
I thought about clear but it's rusted up by this point and not necessarily in a uniform, attractive way. I'll strip it and take it to the local powder coater when I have enough time.
12-03-19 | 03:49 AM
#43
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 17,196
Likes: 761
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
12-03-19 | 12:06 PM
#44
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 2,091
Likes: 350
I think that is right. I know a couple framebuilders that have tried clear coat only several times, and the frames always started rusting before too long. They all had to be repainted.
I guess if a rough looking bike is important to your personal sense of aesthetics, and you don't mind that it will eventually rust through and die, it doesn't matter. I once considered rescuing an old frame from the San Francisco bay that was covered in barnacles. Now that would have been funny to ride, if a bit unsafe.
I guess if a rough looking bike is important to your personal sense of aesthetics, and you don't mind that it will eventually rust through and die, it doesn't matter. I once considered rescuing an old frame from the San Francisco bay that was covered in barnacles. Now that would have been funny to ride, if a bit unsafe.
Very impressive effort. Does not look like a first frame at all.
12-04-19 | 12:59 PM
#45
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 6,280
Likes: 612
From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 78 Masi Criterium, 68 PX10, 2016 Mercian King of Mercia, Rivendell Clem Smith Jr
OUT OF THE BLACK
Sorry for the digression from topic...
