I'm posting here because I find this group more congenial than the Mechanics subforum, but I'll understand if the mods move this post.

The Record front hub of my new 1983 Tommasini came with dried grease that had oozed out and down the spokes, and was pretty hard. I read and watched Youtubes on the procedure, got some grade 25 7/32" bearings, and found a small jar of the beloved Campy grease in the bike bag that came with the bicycle. Here's a photo from after I'd cleaned the hub and spokes, and before I'd started the rebuild:



I used the ball-point pen test on the cones and races, and they seem in fine shape. I noticed that 9 of the old bearings have a matte finish, while 9 have a fairly shiny finish (but still a little worn compared to the new ones). I didn't keep the 2 sides separate, since I knew I'd be replacing them all, but I'm assuming that all 9 of the matte finish ones all came from one side. Either those 9 bearings were reused, and had more wear, or somehow the pressure/friction wasn't equalized across the two sides. Is that likely? The old grease seemed about equally dirty, but I didn't really compare the two sides.

I have two questions: (1) should I make sure the 'loose side' of the cone/washer/lock nut combo is on the right side of the wheel? I could have sworn I read that somewhere, but can't find it now. On one side the lock nut came off fairly easily. On the other, is was so tight I started to twist/warp the cheap aluminum cone wrench I'm using while I wait for some real cone wrenches to arrive. I didn't loosen that lock nut once I saw how tight it was. I have the hub all together again, with new bearings and creamy smooth vintage Campy grease. I just want to know if it really does matter that the tightly locked cone/lock nut combo is on the left side, with the quick release handle?

I also left the tiniest bit of play in the axle when I tightened down the lock nut. Question (2) is, do I need to make sure there's still a tiny bit of axle movement after the skewer is tightened when the wheel is on the bike, or is this just something to check for when the lock nut is tightened?

A tiny bit of play before tightening the QR is good, as the QR will compress the axle slightly and remove that play.

As you have figure out by now, it's easier to just leave one side locked, and use the other side for adjustment. That makes it easy to keep the same amount of axle sticking out on each side, and easier all around.

If one side has bearings that are matt those probably got dirtier than the shinier side. At this point, it doesn't matter, just put new the ball bearings in all around and don't worry about it. It ain't rocket science.

Yeah, it's best to adjust just a tiny bit loose so that they are perfect when the QR is squeezed. However, they shouldn't be loose or have any play at this point. You get a feel after a while.

If you are unsure it's better to adjust them to just right - no play but as loose as possible - when they are off the bike. Do make sure the cone and locknut that you adjust are properly tightened together.

IMHO wait until you get your steel cone wrenches before doing this, or at least finalizing. Seems like aluminum ones would be useless.

Thanks! It's supposed to rain here for the next few days, so I should be forced to sit on my hands till the wrenches arrive in a few days.

So that suggestion I saw somewhere that the loosened side (the one that wasn't stuck) doesn't necessarily need to go on the right side? Did I hallucinate that?

I would wait for the cone spanners and you can then lock the cones against the nuts with equal strength. There should be no play on the axle (as [MENTION=20548]JohnDThompson[/MENTION] mentioned) but if the rotation feels 'digital' then you've over-tightened the cones. Cone spanners make this easy.

Also, it's common practice to file down the sides of your cone spanners so they slip in more easily:



What is the ball-point pen test, may I ask?

Run a ball-point pen over the bearing surface of the cones and the races, to feel if there is any noticeable pitting. It makes sense to me that it's easier to feel than to see.

And thanks for the tip on sanding the wrenches.

A little late but....Here's a tip. Don't use that Campy grease. It was great stuff. But there is better stuff now. Lube technology has advanced quite a bit since that grease was made.
And that Campy grease is worth more in the tub than in your hub. Sell the tub on ebay and help pay for your build.

Unless none of that matters to you, of course...which is likely.

I thought about that. I have some Phil Wood grease, which I figure is likely much better. I liked the idea of using the old Campy grease on the old Campy hubs, at least for my first go-round with this. When I do the rear hub and BB I'll probably use the Phil Wood. And I'll probably repack the front hub, with the PW grease, in a few months just to see how the bearings have worn. I can probably get $20 or so for the Campy grease, which might pay for a replacement vintage yellow saddle (the yellow turbo saddle on it now is beyond redemption).

And when the Phil Wood grease is used up, I'll probably get some marine bearing grease, which I see frequently recommended here.

The PW grease is certainly good stuff, I haven't purchased any because of the price though. I use the Shimano Premium/Dura Ace grease for all rebuilding of the various cups, cones and ball bearings. Yep, it can be expensive if you don't watch who you buy from, I searched a good bit at Amazon and on ebay, I finally found some of the 100g tubes at a fair price on ebay. The small jars are pricey, watch for the various shops selling it in the tubes or the large containers to get the best price.

Or, just use some of the Marine Grease you mentioned, it should be fine. Park Tool has a fairly decent grease, too, I just favor the Shimano product, personally.

Bill

Loosened side vs fixed side can make a difference on bottom brackets but not on hubs. The axles are completely side indifferent so don't sweat it.
As for grease, I use synthetic grease these days but IMO the major factor in bike hub grease is cleanliness and the ability to withstand the inevitable contamination by dust and moisture that will get by the seals. Periodic cleaning and re-greasing is the best defense here.

That makes sense, since I've been reading mostly about the hubs, and I haven't seen a mention of the fixed side vs. loose side mentioned in any of the well-done write-ups on that subject. I'll keep it in mind when I mess with the BB, which I'll probably do soon. I tend to believe you about the exact type of grease mattering less than the frequency and quality of the maintenance. If I had several bikes that needed this kind of service, and rode a lot in crummy weather, I'd probably be looking for the best cheap grease. It's amazing how I never thought about any of this with the old 10-speeds I had back in the day.

When Servicing Hub bearings and adjusting bearing end play/preload. The Drive side cone and lock nut should be tightened down first. Making sure it is tight, the reason being the drive side has a natural tendency to loosen it self when in movement. The Non drive side will normally want to keep it self tight. So all the adjustment of the end play should always be done on the non drive side lock nut. I use grade 10 bearings, never use anything worse than grade 25 ( The high the value the less concentric the bearing balls will be). I use two types of grease, Dura ace Grease, and Campagnolo Grease. The Campagnolo grease was reintroduced and while ago, a bit pricey but I get it from the Supplier that made it for Campagnolo. Kluber Lubricants made the Grease for Campagnolo.



Same Grease in the Kluber Tube.

https://cnc-specialty-store.com/grea...TZ0aAn_v8P8HAQ

Thank you. In my compulsiveness, I made sure the 'tight' side of the hub remained on the drive side, just in case it's relevant. I didn't see grade 10 bearings available when I bought mine. Do you have a supplier you recommend? And I had no idea the Campy grease had been reintroduced. Good to know.

Loose side vs tight side does make a difference on the rear hub. The driveside (right) cones are hidden under the freewheel, so you want to leave the NDS (left) side as the nuts that are easier to separate.

So here's my 2 cents...


Front hubs... it doesn't make a difference what side you work from. Left, right, drive side, non drive side. if everythings properly tightened its never going to loosen that's why it makes no difference.


Rear hubs... See front hubs. The only reason to work from the non drive side is if the freewheels still mounted. Its simply the only way to do it.


Discolored bearings on one side: The grease wore out or was washed out ot it got contaminated. Nothing more nothing less.


Grease. Anything is better than nothing. Dura ace is simply the best, hands down nothing compares. But its expensive. The next best grease I found is Mobil 1 red in the tub, $15 and it'll last a home mechanic over a decade. Recently I switched over to Lucas 'Red n Tacky' @ $10/tub as my everyday grease. Phil Wood grease sucks. The oils seperate out and it dries and hardens up as well.


Bearing play. Loosen and loosen and loosen until there's play when the QR is clamped down then tighten just a tick until the play barely goes away. You'll be amazed at how much play there can be prior to clamping down. If your tighten everything just right you can make minor adjustments to the cones without breaking loose the lock nuts.


Bearing quality: Dura Ace, Record or any other ground n polished races there's no need to go any better than grade 25 simply because nothing else is grade 25. What's the point of running grade 10 balls on a surface that's NOT grade 10? There isn't. There NO reason to run grade 25 in hubs with NON ground and races either except for inventory and cost purpose. Grade 25 bearings are so flippin' cheap that it makes no sense for me have grade 25 and grade 100 bearings in every size on my work bench.


If any of you are ever in Tampa and want to stop by to see how I do bearings...or anything else your more than welcome.

You are right Phil Wood grease sucks.