Upgrading a 1985 Diamondback Apex
#1
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Upgrading a 1985 Diamondback Apex
Noob here with a load of questions about an older bike.
Ive been riding a short commute to work that is mostly flat so I haven't done much in the way of upgrades. But now my commute is going to triple and include a massive couple of hill climbs. I'm looking to drop weight if possible. Other than the wheels anyone know if its possible to replace the front fork and handle bars on this beast? Ive had trouble finding tech specs on this model. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your time.
Ive been riding a short commute to work that is mostly flat so I haven't done much in the way of upgrades. But now my commute is going to triple and include a massive couple of hill climbs. I'm looking to drop weight if possible. Other than the wheels anyone know if its possible to replace the front fork and handle bars on this beast? Ive had trouble finding tech specs on this model. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your time.
#2
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,584
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From: Scranton, PA, USA
Bikes: '77 Centurion "Pro Tour"; '67 Carlton "The Flyer"; 1984 Ross MTB (stored at parents' house)
I'd determine if it's even worthwhile before I determined whether or not it's feasible. It's going to be some flavor of 1" threaded headset, I'd think, with 26" wheels and cantilever brake bosses. So you'd need a headset that fits into the headtube, and has the same fork crown race diameter as the new fork, with the right steerer length, along with whatever other stuff you'd like to change.
Pull everything off and weigh it to figure out how much weight you can save. I remember being surprised that the steel bullmoose handlebars on my early Ross weren't really all that heavy, worked fine and looked really good. Maybe a new stem and handlebars would work out okay for you, or a stem adapter, stem and handlebars.
Pull everything off and weigh it to figure out how much weight you can save. I remember being surprised that the steel bullmoose handlebars on my early Ross weren't really all that heavy, worked fine and looked really good. Maybe a new stem and handlebars would work out okay for you, or a stem adapter, stem and handlebars.
#3
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From: Norman, Oklahoma
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I have a Diamond BAck Fleetstreak from that era ---- its a fun bike
I don't think its financially prudent to try to sink a lot of money into the beast --- It already has a triple chainring drivetrain , which is a huge help on the hills ---- for making it more commuter friendly , I would install some semi-slick tires to minimize rolling resistance , then call it a day
Spending too much money trying to make it lighter or faster is a bit like installing hot rod parts in a Bronco or a Jeep --- at the end of the day, its still a Bronco, know what I mean?
The best upgrade for a commiter would be to keep your eye out for a secondhand touring bike, or a road bike with some tire clearance for racks, fenders and the like -- maybe an old Cannondale or Trek touring machine, Specialized Sequoia , there are a bunch of Miyata touring models - etc.
I don't think its financially prudent to try to sink a lot of money into the beast --- It already has a triple chainring drivetrain , which is a huge help on the hills ---- for making it more commuter friendly , I would install some semi-slick tires to minimize rolling resistance , then call it a day
Spending too much money trying to make it lighter or faster is a bit like installing hot rod parts in a Bronco or a Jeep --- at the end of the day, its still a Bronco, know what I mean?
The best upgrade for a commiter would be to keep your eye out for a secondhand touring bike, or a road bike with some tire clearance for racks, fenders and the like -- maybe an old Cannondale or Trek touring machine, Specialized Sequoia , there are a bunch of Miyata touring models - etc.
#4
Extraordinary Magnitude


Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 14,080
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From: Waukesha WI
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
I have a Diamond BAck Fleetstreak from that era ---- its a fun bike
I don't think its financially prudent to try to sink a lot of money into the beast --- It already has a triple chainring drivetrain , which is a huge help on the hills ---- for making it more commuter friendly , I would install some semi-slick tires to minimize rolling resistance , then call it a day
Spending too much money trying to make it lighter or faster is a bit like installing hot rod parts in a Bronco or a Jeep --- at the end of the day, its still a Bronco, know what I mean?
The best upgrade for a commiter would be to keep your eye out for a secondhand touring bike, or a road bike with some tire clearance for racks, fenders and the like -- maybe an old Cannondale or Trek touring machine, Specialized Sequoia , there are a bunch of Miyata touring models - etc.
I don't think its financially prudent to try to sink a lot of money into the beast --- It already has a triple chainring drivetrain , which is a huge help on the hills ---- for making it more commuter friendly , I would install some semi-slick tires to minimize rolling resistance , then call it a day
Spending too much money trying to make it lighter or faster is a bit like installing hot rod parts in a Bronco or a Jeep --- at the end of the day, its still a Bronco, know what I mean?
The best upgrade for a commiter would be to keep your eye out for a secondhand touring bike, or a road bike with some tire clearance for racks, fenders and the like -- maybe an old Cannondale or Trek touring machine, Specialized Sequoia , there are a bunch of Miyata touring models - etc.
Some non-knobby tires like some Panaracer Pasela 26 x 1.75 would be excellent on that bike and make a huge difference riding distance.
For whatever money you're going to throw at relieving the weight off a bike that has a 30# fighting weight- it's just better served getting a bike that's meant to be a little lighter.
That's not to say you can't swap out parts and play with components, if just for the fun of it. The Apex was pretty much top of the line, right? Not a lot of room to "upgrade."
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
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#5
Sunshine
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 18,699
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From: Des Moines, IA
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Noob here with a load of questions about an older bike.
Ive been riding a short commute to work that is mostly flat so I haven't done much in the way of upgrades. But now my commute is going to triple and include a massive couple of hill climbs. I'm looking to drop weight if possible. Other than the wheels anyone know if its possible to replace the front fork and handle bars on this beast? Ive had trouble finding tech specs on this model. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your time.
Ive been riding a short commute to work that is mostly flat so I haven't done much in the way of upgrades. But now my commute is going to triple and include a massive couple of hill climbs. I'm looking to drop weight if possible. Other than the wheels anyone know if its possible to replace the front fork and handle bars on this beast? Ive had trouble finding tech specs on this model. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your time.
Wheelset, as mentioned, will give you a ton of weight savings as that weight is rotational and therefore amplified.
The fork is beefy for sure. Most replacemebt forks for 26" canti bikes are going to be similar. By most, i kean all that i am aware of.
#6
Bikes are okay, I guess.



Joined: Jan 2015
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From: Richmond, Virginia
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT, Jeunet mixte
If it's like this one the advice you've received already is pretty good. Slick or street-friendly tires would be a big improvement. If you like the riding position that's positive but you could add bar ends to vary the riding position and get you leaning a little farther forward. You might even want to consider a drop bar conversion but unless you already have the parts and the knowledge that will run into some bucks. If you're serious about commuting you'll probably want fenders and a rear rack.
Last edited by thumpism; 11-05-16 at 06:23 PM.
#7
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 4,628
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From: Ontario, Canada
Bikes: iele Latina, Miele Suprema, Miele Uno LS, Miele Miele Beta, MMTB, Bianchi Model Unknown, Fiori Venezia, Fiori Napoli, VeloSport Adamas AX
Noob here with a load of questions about an older bike.
Ive been riding a short commute to work that is mostly flat so I haven't done much in the way of upgrades. But now my commute is going to triple and include a massive couple of hill climbs. I'm looking to drop weight if possible. Other than the wheels anyone know if its possible to replace the front fork and handle bars on this beast? Ive had trouble finding tech specs on this model. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your time.
Ive been riding a short commute to work that is mostly flat so I haven't done much in the way of upgrades. But now my commute is going to triple and include a massive couple of hill climbs. I'm looking to drop weight if possible. Other than the wheels anyone know if its possible to replace the front fork and handle bars on this beast? Ive had trouble finding tech specs on this model. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your time.
Here's one of my MTBs with the bar-ends inboard of the shifter bark lever.
MTB On The Trail 01b by Miele Man, on Flickr
MTB On The Trail 01a by Miele Man, on FlickrBtw, the move from 2"+ tires and tubes to 1.5" or 1.25" slick or semi-slick makes a huge difference itself.
Cheers
#8
Extraordinary Magnitude


Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 14,080
Likes: 2,134
From: Waukesha WI
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
Good call- when I was commuting on my 26" wheeled bikes- I preferred the 26 x 1.25 tires. Now I prefer the 1.75" tires.
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#9
vintage motor


Joined: Sep 2008
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Bikes: 48 Automoto, 49 Stallard, 50 Rotrax, 62 Jack Taylor, 67 Atala, 68 Lejeune, 72-74-75 Motobecanes, 73 RIH, 71 Zieleman, 74 Raleigh, 78 Windsor, 83 Messina (Villata), 84 Brazzo (Losa), 85 Davidson, 90 Diamondback, 92 Kestrel
+1 on slick street tires.
Drop bars will put you in a much more efficient riding position for longer distances.
Don't spend any more money than that on that bike. It's a nice bike but you'll never turn it into a lightweight road bike. If your street surfaces are good enough to use narrower tires you could get some type of road bike, which will have a lighter and faster frame.
Drop bars will put you in a much more efficient riding position for longer distances.
Don't spend any more money than that on that bike. It's a nice bike but you'll never turn it into a lightweight road bike. If your street surfaces are good enough to use narrower tires you could get some type of road bike, which will have a lighter and faster frame.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 6,280
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From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 78 Masi Criterium, 68 PX10, 2016 Mercian King of Mercia, Rivendell Clem Smith Jr
Noob here with a load of questions about an older bike.
Ive been riding a short commute to work that is mostly flat so I haven't done much in the way of upgrades. But now my commute is going to triple and include a massive couple of hill climbs. I'm looking to drop weight if possible. Other than the wheels anyone know if its possible to replace the front fork and handle bars on this beast? Ive had trouble finding tech specs on this model. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your time.
Ive been riding a short commute to work that is mostly flat so I haven't done much in the way of upgrades. But now my commute is going to triple and include a massive couple of hill climbs. I'm looking to drop weight if possible. Other than the wheels anyone know if its possible to replace the front fork and handle bars on this beast? Ive had trouble finding tech specs on this model. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your time.
First thing would be new light street tires. Something ~1.5" and no knobs. Tires are way better now than 1985, and if it has knobbies on it now, half the battle is already won. The lower rolling resistance will in practice make much more difference than a couple pounds here and there.
If you want to spend more, new lighter wheels wouldn't be a horrible idea.
Absolutely forget swapping the fork. Bad idea. You might save a few ounces at a large cost. You will have a ton of headaches.
You could swap the stem and bars. A standard quill road type stem will fit. You may want to check out some of the 3 speed type bars in aluminum from SOMA, Velo Orange, and others. It's non moving weight and bars aren't that heavy, but I guess it would save a bit.
Oh, and by the way, congrats on your cool bike. I spent months looking for a silly long wheelbase 80s MTB in my size (big) before finally giving up. There's a bit of a cult around them, believe it or not.
#11
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Thanks to everyone for all the advice. Looks like ill be on the hunt for some new wheels and tires and call it a day. It has a rear rack already but it will need a new bag, head and rear lamp. I was planning on pulling apart the lower bracket and giving it some fresh grease.
#12
https://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...hmentid=408360
is that it? nice bike.
get some 1.5in forte tires from performance. these Forté Metro ST Tire
then see if you want new wheels. I suspect new wheels wont make near the difference as new tires will
is that it? nice bike.
get some 1.5in forte tires from performance. these Forté Metro ST Tire
then see if you want new wheels. I suspect new wheels wont make near the difference as new tires will
#14
Bikes are okay, I guess.



Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 8,006
Likes: 3,773
From: Richmond, Virginia
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT, Jeunet mixte
If the existing wheels are straight and round, it might be considered a foolish expenditure (maybe even wasteful?) to replace them. You can buy a lot of nice gear for what new wheels will cost. Just sayin' that unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket...
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