Incredibly Simple Brake Cable Question
#1
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2017
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From: Columbia, MO
Incredibly Simple Brake Cable Question
I have to replace a brake cable (it's fraying) on my 1979 Varsity and figured that I might as well replace the second one while I am at it. I don't really know what I'm doing (as will become painfully evident by the upcoming question) and was hoping that someone with more experience than myself could let me know if I'm on the right track.
Will this cable work for my bike since it says that it is universal?
https://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...-universal.com
(It's listed as "XLC Brake Cable, Individual, 1.5mm x 2700mm, Universal.")
And since my right cable is only 1200 mm long, is it safe to assume that this product will be suitable for both my right and left side?
Thanks for your help and patience!
Will this cable work for my bike since it says that it is universal?
https://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...-universal.com
(It's listed as "XLC Brake Cable, Individual, 1.5mm x 2700mm, Universal.")
And since my right cable is only 1200 mm long, is it safe to assume that this product will be suitable for both my right and left side?
Thanks for your help and patience!
#3
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Simple answer.
What matters is the type of end, and adequate length.
Here's a picture of common cable ends
.
You need either type B or C.
B is typical or drop bars, and C on upright handlebar brake levers, but rather than guess, just look at what you have.
You can also buy kits which include the housing, and I suggest you do so, because the housings tend to have shorter life than the inner wires.
Simple question, simple answer, have fun
What matters is the type of end, and adequate length.
Here's a picture of common cable ends
.

You need either type B or C.
B is typical or drop bars, and C on upright handlebar brake levers, but rather than guess, just look at what you have.
You can also buy kits which include the housing, and I suggest you do so, because the housings tend to have shorter life than the inner wires.
Simple question, simple answer, have fun
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#5
https://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...00mm-universal
Is this the one you linked to?
If so, that is for one brake only and its for flat bar brake levers, like mountain bike brake levers.
Is this the one you linked to?
If so, that is for one brake only and its for flat bar brake levers, like mountain bike brake levers.
#6
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 19
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From: Columbia, MO
Thank you so much for the responses! That was the correct link Hardrock23, so thanks for the heads up. I would have definitely bought the wrong thing.
It looks like I need a E4B end. So I would be good to go with two of the cable in the link below? Also, I have new housing, I just need the cable!
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Brake-...les&th=1&psc=1
Thanks again!!
It looks like I need a E4B end. So I would be good to go with two of the cable in the link below? Also, I have new housing, I just need the cable!
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Brake-...les&th=1&psc=1
Thanks again!!
#7
Thank you so much for the responses! That was the correct link Hardrock23, so thanks for the heads up. I would have definitely bought the wrong thing.
It looks like I need a E4B end. So I would be good to go with two of the cable in the link below? Also, I have new housing, I just need the cable!
www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Brake-Cable-1855mm-Galvanized/dp/B000AO5KLU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1499006949&sr=8-6&keywords=brake%2Bcables&th=1&psc=1
Thanks again!!
It looks like I need a E4B end. So I would be good to go with two of the cable in the link below? Also, I have new housing, I just need the cable!
www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Brake-Cable-1855mm-Galvanized/dp/B000AO5KLU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1499006949&sr=8-6&keywords=brake%2Bcables&th=1&psc=1
Thanks again!!
#8
Still learning

Joined: May 2012
Posts: 11,529
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From: North of Canada, Adirondacks
Bikes: Still a garage full
If you are replacing cables, do the housing too.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bell-Spor...&wl13=&veh=sem
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bell-Spor...&wl13=&veh=sem
#9
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
As noted, that will be OK, but you'll likely need to replacing the housing, and while you're at it, will probably want to do both.
This one may be a better package deal for you.
This one may be a better package deal for you.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#11
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
I missed that, but whenever I post on any thread, I assume readers sort through all the information and use what applies, and disregard the rest. IMO too much info is far better than omitting what may turn out to be important.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#13
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, MO
Thanks again for the help from everyone! This has been a steep learning curve so I can't tell you how grateful I am!
I actually just replaced the shifter cables and housing since one of the cable ends crumbled soon after I got the bike. The housing ended up not matching the brake housing, which caused my anal retentive side to want to replace the brake cable housing. This was when I noticed the brake cable was fraying and led to my original question. Anyway. I should be good to go now (fingers crossed) now, thanks to the help from all!!
I actually just replaced the shifter cables and housing since one of the cable ends crumbled soon after I got the bike. The housing ended up not matching the brake housing, which caused my anal retentive side to want to replace the brake cable housing. This was when I noticed the brake cable was fraying and led to my original question. Anyway. I should be good to go now (fingers crossed) now, thanks to the help from all!!
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