Overgeared - chain ring advice?
12-07-17 | 04:37 PM
#28
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From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Sugino also makes modern ramped and pinned chainrings in the 110 BCD size. Modern rings on a C&V crank can make a sweet setup:
12-07-17 | 05:01 PM
#29
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From: Pacific Northwest
Bikes: ‘87 Marinoni SLX Sports Tourer, ‘79 Miyata 912 by Gugificazione
This doesn’t have to be difficult.
Some one else has already noted that the crankset does NOT have to be removed, which is quite correct. It’s pretty easy to wiggle the smaller chain ring over the spider with the rings off. Chances are good that the only tool needed is a 5mm Allen wrench, plus whatever size is needed to lower the front derailleur and readjust it’s cable. The existing chainring bolts are probably fine.
And I concur that a 46 or 48/34 combination would be excellent. Ramped and pinned rings are NOT needed. We lived without them just fine for decades. A mega-range freewheel would also work, but that could create complications with the rear derailleur.
Big/big combination + 1” minimum (2 links) is my standard chain length sizing. I never worry about small/small. I’ll bet the existing chain length could be used as-is, judging from the photo in Post #1 if the OP doesn’t have a chain tool.
Some one else has already noted that the crankset does NOT have to be removed, which is quite correct. It’s pretty easy to wiggle the smaller chain ring over the spider with the rings off. Chances are good that the only tool needed is a 5mm Allen wrench, plus whatever size is needed to lower the front derailleur and readjust it’s cable. The existing chainring bolts are probably fine.
And I concur that a 46 or 48/34 combination would be excellent. Ramped and pinned rings are NOT needed. We lived without them just fine for decades. A mega-range freewheel would also work, but that could create complications with the rear derailleur.
Big/big combination + 1” minimum (2 links) is my standard chain length sizing. I never worry about small/small. I’ll bet the existing chain length could be used as-is, judging from the photo in Post #1 if the OP doesn’t have a chain tool.
Last edited by Dfrost; 12-07-17 at 05:05 PM.
12-07-17 | 05:19 PM
#30
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From: Memphis, TN
Bikes: 1982 Trek 613, 1988 Panasonic MC 2500, 1981 Schwinn Super Sport, 1975 Raleigh Super Course MKII, 1985 Miyata 210
I almost never keep the 52 chainring on the double cranksets I use, the gearing just isn’t practical for someone that isn’t trying to go fast all the time. I agree with everyone else on a 46-48/34 set up.
12-07-17 | 06:11 PM
#31
weapons-grade bolognium
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From: Across the street from Chicago
Bikes: Battaglin Cromor, Ciocc Designer 84, Schwinn Superior 1981
I've found that 48t is a sweet spot for flatland/not fast biking.
For me, it seems to work better than a 50t when there is a headwind.
For me, it seems to work better than a 50t when there is a headwind.
12-07-17 | 07:11 PM
#32
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Bikes: 1964 Legnano Roma Olympiade, 1973 Raleigh Super Course, 1978 Raleigh Super Course, 1978 Peugeot PR10, 2002 Specialized Allez, 2007 Specialized Roubaix, 2013 Culprit Croz Blade
I'm running a 34t 6 speed Megarange on my Raleigh Super Course. It mates up nicely with my Sugino AT triple, with 50,40,32 chain wheels. It's also 110 bcd on the big ring. Youll need a long cage RD for the 34t, I use a Suntour VGT Luxe. I can easily do big/big on thus setup, but usually don't. Funny thing, I feel I need more gear, so I just bought a 52 to replace my 50. Haven't got it swapped yet. We're in the LA fire area, so no cycling for a few days. Good luck with yours.
Last edited by Slightspeed; 12-07-17 at 10:45 PM.
12-07-17 | 09:46 PM
#33
nice bike. I like the 34/48 chainring suggestions.
I use Mike Sherman's Gear Calculator. Click "Bookmark Gear Set" at the bottom, and the URL changes to that setup, so you can recall it later. All the charts change on the fly as you change cadence, cogs, or chainrings.
I mostly use the "Speed Over RPM range" chart, and "Speed at X rpm" chart near the bottom of the page.
~~~~~
Your current 42/52 and 14-28 cassette: calculator link
Big chainring in black, small chainring in red.
Typical cadences for riders doing a moderate effort or more is often around 85-100 rpm, and an easy effort can drop into the 75-85 range.
Changing to 34/48 with your 14-28:
This looks better, you still can spin efficiently down to 7-8 mph when you get those headwinds.
The small chainring is good up to about 15-16 mph (without cross chaining the 34-14)
And the big chainring has a more usable range, from around 14 mph on up.
Go even lower!
I'd even consider a 30/44, if you rarely have long, shallow downhills or strong tailwinds. That will reduce your top speed to around 23-24 mph instead of 27 mph, and let you use the big chainring down to near 13 mph instead of 14 mph. Edit--I'm liking this option for your situation, flat terrain and difficulty with low cadences.
~~~~
For comparison, my 11-speed with a custom 14-32 and 34/50. I ride with some fairly fast group rides, and climb some pretty steep hills with this. So I like your similar setup. (11 speed has closer shifts, to get the exact cadence I want.)
I use Mike Sherman's Gear Calculator. Click "Bookmark Gear Set" at the bottom, and the URL changes to that setup, so you can recall it later. All the charts change on the fly as you change cadence, cogs, or chainrings.
I mostly use the "Speed Over RPM range" chart, and "Speed at X rpm" chart near the bottom of the page.
~~~~~
Your current 42/52 and 14-28 cassette: calculator link
Big chainring in black, small chainring in red.
Typical cadences for riders doing a moderate effort or more is often around 85-100 rpm, and an easy effort can drop into the 75-85 range.
Changing to 34/48 with your 14-28:
This looks better, you still can spin efficiently down to 7-8 mph when you get those headwinds.
The small chainring is good up to about 15-16 mph (without cross chaining the 34-14)
And the big chainring has a more usable range, from around 14 mph on up.
Go even lower!
I'd even consider a 30/44, if you rarely have long, shallow downhills or strong tailwinds. That will reduce your top speed to around 23-24 mph instead of 27 mph, and let you use the big chainring down to near 13 mph instead of 14 mph. Edit--I'm liking this option for your situation, flat terrain and difficulty with low cadences.
~~~~
For comparison, my 11-speed with a custom 14-32 and 34/50. I ride with some fairly fast group rides, and climb some pretty steep hills with this. So I like your similar setup. (11 speed has closer shifts, to get the exact cadence I want.)
Last edited by rm -rf; 12-07-17 at 10:17 PM.
12-07-17 | 10:06 PM
#34
Sorry if I was not clear about what I'm trying to accomplish.
You are correct that Fort Wayne area is pretty flat. My daily commute has about a 300 ft total gain, at 13 miles in length. There are a few hills that are pretty challenging without a headwind, and dropping it down into 42/28 I still can't spin faster than 60 rpm. Below about 60, I start to have serious issues with my left knee. Cancer took the adductor muscles from my left leg about 5 years ago, and while this muscle group isn't primarily used for power, it places significant limitations on my strength/flexibility/control.
After doing this ride every weekday for 3 months and 1800+ miles, I have realized that 52/42 and 14-28 is too steep for ME, not necessarily too steep for anybody else, or for recreational riders, or the target demographic of manufacturers during the bike boom.
Also, while this area is pretty flat it can get pretty windy, especially in the winter months. My commute is 90% through the farmland to the north and east of the city. In the winter, when the crops are harvested and the leaves off the trees, the winds are quite a bit stronger than in the city. Further, the prevailing winds here are from the southwest, and I work directly northeast from home, so nearly every ride home is a headwind.
The first 6 weeks or so saw some pretty impressive improvements in my stamina/strength/flexibility/cardio/overall fitness, but this has since entered a "plateau" and the improvements are much smaller now, and this is to be expected I think.
Installing another freewheel with a 34T granny gets me ONE more usable gear. Installing smaller chain rings in the front lowers the gear range of the entire drivetrain and may afford me SEVERAL more usable gears.
Does this make sense?
It may have made more sense for me to have posted this in Commuting, but as my bike is vintage I thought perhaps someone may have had direct experience with this sort of problem. Sorry if I am barking up the wrong tree.
You are correct that Fort Wayne area is pretty flat. My daily commute has about a 300 ft total gain, at 13 miles in length. There are a few hills that are pretty challenging without a headwind, and dropping it down into 42/28 I still can't spin faster than 60 rpm. Below about 60, I start to have serious issues with my left knee. Cancer took the adductor muscles from my left leg about 5 years ago, and while this muscle group isn't primarily used for power, it places significant limitations on my strength/flexibility/control.
After doing this ride every weekday for 3 months and 1800+ miles, I have realized that 52/42 and 14-28 is too steep for ME, not necessarily too steep for anybody else, or for recreational riders, or the target demographic of manufacturers during the bike boom.
Also, while this area is pretty flat it can get pretty windy, especially in the winter months. My commute is 90% through the farmland to the north and east of the city. In the winter, when the crops are harvested and the leaves off the trees, the winds are quite a bit stronger than in the city. Further, the prevailing winds here are from the southwest, and I work directly northeast from home, so nearly every ride home is a headwind.
The first 6 weeks or so saw some pretty impressive improvements in my stamina/strength/flexibility/cardio/overall fitness, but this has since entered a "plateau" and the improvements are much smaller now, and this is to be expected I think.
Installing another freewheel with a 34T granny gets me ONE more usable gear. Installing smaller chain rings in the front lowers the gear range of the entire drivetrain and may afford me SEVERAL more usable gears.
Does this make sense?
It may have made more sense for me to have posted this in Commuting, but as my bike is vintage I thought perhaps someone may have had direct experience with this sort of problem. Sorry if I am barking up the wrong tree.
And I liked your comment "In Indiana, we only have climbs. They failed to install descents on the back sides of our hills." Heh.
You can play with the calculator, and might even consider something like a 30/44. Better to have "one more shift" that you rarely need, instead of running out of gears regularly.
Chainring shifting
I'm not sure how your front derailleur would handle a big chainring tooth difference. Will a 30/44 work okay? I'm guessing it will be okay.
Last edited by rm -rf; 12-07-17 at 10:19 PM.
12-08-17 | 01:49 PM
#35
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Joined: Dec 2006
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Another benefit of going to a smaller chainring is you will tend to use combinations that will give a better chainline. When I use a 52 or 53 ring it seems all the rear cogs I want to use are at the wrong side of the cluster.
The only other thing I would mention is if there is a particular gear or range that you tend to ride in most of the time (eg for me that would be gear inches in the low 70's) play around with the gear calculator to make sure you have one or more gears in that range, with a good chainline. Sometimes you might find what seems to be a good setup based on the total range, and then realize that there is nothing in your sweet spot, or that the gear you'd really like to ride in is the one that has you cross-chained from the small ring to the small cog.
12-08-17 | 02:09 PM
#36
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Williston FL
Bikes: 1988 Panasonic, 1989 Fuji, Schwinn Beach Cruiser
My old Panasonic began life as a 5 speed freewheel. I converted to a 7 speed 11-28 freewheel, and have a 50/34 up front. Considering my lack of performance on even a measly hill I do wish I had gone with an 11-34 instead.
If I were you, my first step would be to change your crank gears or go onto the triple in the front and then use a mega gear in the rear. Don’t forget a new chain, even in good shape the old one would bee too short. For less than a bill you would end up where you want.
If I were you, my first step would be to change your crank gears or go onto the triple in the front and then use a mega gear in the rear. Don’t forget a new chain, even in good shape the old one would bee too short. For less than a bill you would end up where you want.
12-08-17 | 03:19 PM
#37
Thread Starter
Virgo
Joined: Oct 2014
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From: KFWA
Bikes: A touring bike and a hybrid
I am a little overwhelmed at the responses here - thank you all so much!
I'll have to spend some time this weekend poring over all the sage advice here. You guys are awesome.
I'll have to spend some time this weekend poring over all the sage advice here. You guys are awesome.
12-08-17 | 04:38 PM
#38
ambulatory senior
Joined: Dec 2016
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From: Peoria Il
Bikes: Austro Daimler modified by Gugie! Raleigh Professional and lots of other bikes.
12-08-17 | 07:16 PM
#39
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Joined: Nov 2014
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From: Saratoga calif.
Bikes: 2 ezip electric bikes, trek 800 antelope, nishiki international, 1948 schwin new world, phillippe french boutique bike
Here is what I did on my 1980 Nishiki International.
Replaced the double chain ring with a 24-36-48 triple
Replaced the front derailleur with a triple . This is necessary as the triple has a deeper profile which makes pushing the chain up 12 teeth at a time easier.
Replaced the 14-28 six speed freewheel with a 14-24 close ratio 6 speed unit.
Set up this way you can climb a wall in low low and there are 3 distinct gear ranges for climbing, level or slight incline , and down hill. On another bike I switched the chainrings for a 48 and 36 with a 14-30 tooth freewheel and that works too.
If you count the teeth on the 7 speed mega range freewheel you will find that 14-24 are pretty closely spaced, about the same as the 14-24 close ratio on the Nishiki.
On the Nishiki it is a joy to change gears with friction thumbies and upright bars. Just a flick of the thumb and you are in the next gear - practically effortless.
Replaced the double chain ring with a 24-36-48 triple
Replaced the front derailleur with a triple . This is necessary as the triple has a deeper profile which makes pushing the chain up 12 teeth at a time easier.
Replaced the 14-28 six speed freewheel with a 14-24 close ratio 6 speed unit.
Set up this way you can climb a wall in low low and there are 3 distinct gear ranges for climbing, level or slight incline , and down hill. On another bike I switched the chainrings for a 48 and 36 with a 14-30 tooth freewheel and that works too.
If you count the teeth on the 7 speed mega range freewheel you will find that 14-24 are pretty closely spaced, about the same as the 14-24 close ratio on the Nishiki.
On the Nishiki it is a joy to change gears with friction thumbies and upright bars. Just a flick of the thumb and you are in the next gear - practically effortless.
12-08-17 | 07:35 PM
#40
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From: NW Ohio
Bikes: 1984 Miyata 310, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 1987 Ross Mt. Hood, 1988 Schwinn LeTour, 1988 Trek 400T, 1981 Fuji S12-1977 Univega Grand Rally, S LTD, 1973 Sears Free Spirit 531, 197? FW Evans
LOL
I've NEVER spun out the 52. I can't - no descents long or steep enough around here, and my bum leg is the other significant factor.
Maybe I could do 42/38 and do half-step gearing. ;-) That might be original! 'Cept I might be banished to Alt Bike Culture for such an unconventional mod.
In Indiana, we only have climbs. They failed to install descents on the back sides of our hills. You get used to it after a while though.
Seriously, though, good suggestion. I'll play with the numbers and see what it looks like.
I've NEVER spun out the 52. I can't - no descents long or steep enough around here, and my bum leg is the other significant factor.
Maybe I could do 42/38 and do half-step gearing. ;-) That might be original! 'Cept I might be banished to Alt Bike Culture for such an unconventional mod.
In Indiana, we only have climbs. They failed to install descents on the back sides of our hills. You get used to it after a while though.
Seriously, though, good suggestion. I'll play with the numbers and see what it looks like.
12-13-17 | 11:05 AM
#41
Thread Starter
Virgo
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,279
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From: KFWA
Bikes: A touring bike and a hybrid
Yeah, I grew up in Harlan, left when I became an adult and gained a little sense. Why and how I ended up working here later in life is a little bit of a mystery and I sometimes question my own wisdom in that decision making. It is good to be employed though and my pay is pretty good and good benefits etc. If it weren't for this job I'd find something in town, maybe half the distance from home. The complete lack of any facilities whatsoever on my route is challenging sometimes. I changed my route slightly last week and now pass a power substation with a couple porta-toilets on the chip and seal part of my route, I may utilize one someday.
I usually pass the buggies but on windy days I've thought about asking ones that pass me if I can grab on to the back for a break. I'm actually from an Amish family though I never was myself.
12-13-17 | 11:19 AM
#42
Thread Starter
Virgo
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,279
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From: KFWA
Bikes: A touring bike and a hybrid
Update for any who may be interested: My brother who rides for recreation only has loaned me his MTB for the winter. It has a 42-32-22 triple and a 7 speed freewheel, something like 12-32. This is my 3rd day riding it and I'm pretty sure I'm just going to stick to this bike for the remainder of the winter. I NEVER run out of gears, the knobbies are a little slow, etc., but for my commute I think an MTB is going to be superior to any of the road bikes I own/have owned. Better field of vision, good center of gravity, very stable, and I can laugh as I ride over everything I used to have to go around and laugh up the hills that I used to have to grind up painfully. Much easier to fit studded tires as well as there was not enough room on the Raleigh. I hadn't ridden a mountain bike since I was a kid. It's great. So far it hasn't cost me more than 10 extra minutes over the road bike which TO ME is nothing on a hour long commute. No change of comfort level although the geometry is taking a bit to get used to (legs just a little sore after my ride, but just a little). It's a Murray junker and not mine so I won't be posting pics but I now have some serious consideration to do over the winter about what kind of bike I primarily want to use. I just always figured I should be using a road bike since they're fast and efficient, etc. I'm such a NOOB sometimes.
Thanks again everybody for the suggestions.
Edit: Also, I just sort of naturally fall into a 100-110 rpm cadence on this bike which I don't understand, but I like very much. I am getting a little warmer and sweating more but the workout is nice and my knees are very happy.
Thanks again everybody for the suggestions.
Edit: Also, I just sort of naturally fall into a 100-110 rpm cadence on this bike which I don't understand, but I like very much. I am getting a little warmer and sweating more but the workout is nice and my knees are very happy.
Last edited by Phamilton; 12-13-17 at 11:24 AM.
12-13-17 | 11:28 AM
#43
aka Tom Reingold
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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
You may want to consider tires with less or no tread. If you're not going through loose surfaces, it makes a huge difference.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
12-13-17 | 12:25 PM
#44
Thread Starter
Virgo
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,279
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From: KFWA
Bikes: A touring bike and a hybrid
As a gift to my brother, I'm going to equip the bike with some decent street tires when I return it. I've already upgraded his pedals and kickstand and tuned/adjusted basically everything. He'll be getting back a much better bike. I want to keep the tires less than $40 - something in my brain objects to spending more on tires than what he did on the entire bike.
I'm actually pretty impressed with this bike for what it is. 3 pc crank, name brand alloys, Shimano drivetrain, V-brakes. I think it might have been one of KMart's better bikes back in it's heyday. Not a keeper for me, but it'll do good for my brother pulling his small kids around in the trailer through the subdivisions near where they live, which is 95% of the riding he does. $40 was an OK deal and I advised him to pick this one out of the half dozen or so he was looking at, the remainder being dual suspension NEXTs or older Huffys with 2x6 shifting, caliper brakes, and 1pc cranks, etc.
Man, I'm chatty today, and going off topic. Thanks for popping in, Tom.
12-13-17 | 12:51 PM
#45
feros ferio
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
As others have noted, the key to accommodating a smaller inner ring with a particular ringset and front derailleur is to reduce the size of the outer ring. What works for me is 49 or 50T with 14T in back, or 45 or 46 with 13 in back -- i.e., something in the mid-90s of gear inches. I do either half-step (45-42/13-26) or 1.5-step (50-42/14-26). The latter is like the very common 1970s 52-40/14-28 10-speed "Alpine" setup mentioned earlier.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
12-13-17 | 01:45 PM
#46
aka Tom Reingold
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 44,240
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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
[MENTION=390976]Phamilton[/MENTION], I got my wife back into cycling by buying an old MTB at a police auction for her. She rode it briefly with the knobby tires and then I put slicks on it, and she loved the change. And she's normally not one to notice differences on bikes, but this was huge. I can't stand knobby tires on pavement.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
12-13-17 | 02:30 PM
#47
Thrifty Bill
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,643
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From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Update for any who may be interested: My brother who rides for recreation only has loaned me his MTB for the winter. It has a 42-32-22 triple and a 7 speed freewheel, something like 12-32. This is my 3rd day riding it and I'm pretty sure I'm just going to stick to this bike for the remainder of the winter. I NEVER run out of gears, the knobbies are a little slow, etc., but for my commute I think an MTB is going to be superior to any of the road bikes I own/have owned.
Thanks again everybody for the suggestions.
Edit: Also, I just sort of naturally fall into a 100-110 rpm cadence on this bike which I don't understand, but I like very much. I am getting a little warmer and sweating more but the workout is nice and my knees are very happy.
Thanks again everybody for the suggestions.
Edit: Also, I just sort of naturally fall into a 100-110 rpm cadence on this bike which I don't understand, but I like very much. I am getting a little warmer and sweating more but the workout is nice and my knees are very happy.
On using a MTB for a commuter, I am a huge fan of that option. Just add your choice of 1.25 to 1.50 wide road oriented tires and you are ready to go. Not only are smooth tires more efficient on pavement, they are much lighter and quieter too.
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Please don't confuse ebay "asking" prices with "selling" prices. Many sellers never get their ask price. some are far from it. Value is determined once an item actually SELLS. Its easy enough to check SOLD prices.
12-13-17 | 05:35 PM
#48
Senior Member
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From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Self-discovery is one of the many unexpected benefits of cycling. Not minding the "chattiness" at all, [MENTION=390976]Phamilton[/MENTION]. 
12-13-17 | 05:53 PM
#49
ambulatory senior
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 6,451
Likes: 4,515
From: Peoria Il
Bikes: Austro Daimler modified by Gugie! Raleigh Professional and lots of other bikes.
good on you for trying another bike. if you can do it on the murray i think the raliegh in a different guise would kick ass!
12-13-17 | 08:45 PM
#50
Thread Starter
Virgo
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,279
Likes: 106
From: KFWA
Bikes: A touring bike and a hybrid
Totally. I've wanted to try SS/FG for a while. I think it would make a lovely candidate for that sort of conversion. It's questionable my knees would ever tolerate using that for my commute but would prob be fun to toot around on in town for short trips.