Very nice grab. I had one of these pop through my door. Very nice bike even though not full 531. The white enamel rustolium paint they sell in the little pint size cans at Home Depot is a perfect match for touch ups.

If you remove the seat post, you may find it to be engraved with its manufacturer and size.
Like this original Strong seat post from my Peugeot.

Awesome, thanks much, will pull it and check this weekend when I tear it down and start to clean it up.

Thanks much for the tip on the paint. It's certainly seen better days, but I need to thoroughly clean and polish it first to see what it may look like this weekend.

Thanks for the great info! I think I"m going to stick with the Suntour group and just change out the brake levers. Will see how it's shaping up after teardown and cleaning this weekend. I will remove the tubulars and see what shakes out.

I've been using YellowJersey.org Servizio Corsa tubulars for 5 years. (black or tan wall)
They are okay, best of all is the price 3 for $50. (+ shipping & 1 tube of glue does 2 wheels.)

Yellow Jersey has a good tutorial on how to glue & mount the tubular tire.
Just send Andrew (the owner) an e-mail with your order & he can send you a PayPal request for payment; he ships fast.

Way back when I had experience gluing tubs. Was successful but it was a pain. I recently installed some Tufo tubs & used their tape. A friend has also used their tape & rides long & hard & was no problems. Easy & clean, no glue on the sidewalls or rims.

Thanks for the source and the pic, love the gum wall look of your tires. Luckily, these old tires peeled right off, almost fell off the rim. I'll need to clean up some old glue residue but not much. I have some solvent that I've used for this task on my modern road road wheels with tubulars.

No doubt, the tape is the way to go! I've got one pair of modern Zipp 404 tubulars and installed my Tufo's with tape.

So the fork or frame isn’t bent?

I used to use a solvent- Park Tool Citrus Chainbrite- to clean the glue from the rims.
Then, I got to thinking- there has got to be an easier, less messy, way.

An electric drill with a wire brush attachment does an incredibly good job, and quickly, too.
Caution: wear heavy gloves, eye protection- if the spinning wire brush catches your hand it can hurt.
I clamp the wheel rim between styrofoam pieces in a vice- and just have at it. Very satisfying.
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Yes, rim tape is good and easy- but it is expensive.

It is not pleasant dealing with the rim cement, as has been noted.
But, just a half a tube, equally doled out on the clean rim, between the spoke/nipple eyelets, let it set for 10 minutes, then, starting at the valve stem pull the tire over the rim without getting glue on anything.
After the first time it is pretty easy.

A day ahead, before mounting tubular onto rim---Hint:

Warm the tubular tire in an oven for two minutes at 100 degrees Fahrenheit, then stretch it onto the rim a day before you want to mount it. Pump air into the tire, let sit overnight.
Have some cardboard under your work area to catch glue drips, saves trying to clean up a mess.

Took it down today and cleaned the frame really well. Paint has seen better days, oh well, it will polish up nice as an original rider. I sourced some Mafac brake levers and Simplex down tube shifters today, on the way. Old sew ups peeled right off, need to spend time cleaning and detailing rims and hubs.

My crank puller is too small for the Stronglight - two LBS couldn't help either. Any thoughts here? I cleaned the crank but it needs to come off to do it right and I need to service the BB.

Is this a 49D crankset? I don't see any markings and don't think I will without pulling them. The pattern on the side of the crank suggests 49 series. Thanks guys!

No bends anywhere, frame or fork

Awesome, you have certainly figured this one out!

Nice. The crankset is indeed a Stronglight 49D, here's a scan from VeloBase: VeloBase.com - Component: Stronglight 49D (Marque Deposee)

I've never removed a 49D, but my understanding is that you need a Stronglight crank puller, which I have for my Stronglight 93 crankset, special threading that nothing else works on. I can loan you one, just PM me your address. Otherwise, they run close to $50 on average. There's one on ebay for about $37, free shipping.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stein-crank...EAAOSwRTVacRd4

Testors enamel paint sets are available from Amazon, just google 'testors'.
The white is a pretty fair match for touch-up; the black and gold, as well.
Much better than looking at bare metal scratches. Roughly $20. a kit.

P1800?

[MENTION=454939]indycycling[/MENTION] Do not try to use the standard crank puller. You will strip the threads of the crank. You need to buy or borrow a unique to Stronglight 23.35 puller.

Thanks for all the help guys!

Good eye, it's a P1800 ES wagon

Awesome, thanks for ID on the crank with the link and the offer on the tool. PM coming!

You're welcome. Pm sent on the puller heading your way tomorrow.

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1973 is the first year Verot's 49D received allen chainwheel bolts so if chainset original to cycle it could not be earlier.

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Just a random comment.....

Peugeot used that fork crown on some PX-10's. Why? Who knows. But I concur with everyone else.. it's a PR10

jj1091 - thanks so much for sending me your crank extractor. 5 minutes, the 49D is off the bike. I will overhaul the bottom bracket tomorrow. Picked up some decent Mafac brake levers and a great set of Simplex downtube shifters here on the Forum.

This weekend around riding, will put some elbow grease into all these parts and get the bike back together again.

Flat white rustoleum is the perfect match for that paint. The PR 10 I picked up had more than its share of scratches and I was very impressed by the match with this paint.

Yeah the crank puller is a pain. Looking forward to seeing the bike built up.