Px-10?
03-01-18 | 06:09 AM
#51
Mike J
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 9
From: Jacksonville Florida
Bikes: 1975 Peugeot PX-50L, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1974 Peugeot PX-8
jj1091 - thanks so much for sending me your crank extractor. 5 minutes, the 49D is off the bike. I will overhaul the bottom bracket tomorrow. Picked up some decent Mafac brake levers and a great set of Simplex downtube shifters here on the Forum.
This weekend around riding, will put some elbow grease into all these parts and get the bike back together again.
This weekend around riding, will put some elbow grease into all these parts and get the bike back together again.
03-01-18 | 12:57 PM
#52
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 9,808
Likes: 1,777
From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
As to the bb overhaul, I hope that you find pristine bearing races inside! Those 118mm Stronglight spindles are a somewhat precious item.
I don't remove the fixed cup normally, the factory put them in good and tight from all that I have seen over the years and the 8-sided flats are narrow enough to cause normal wrenches to gouge and slip off unless measures are taken to really affix the wrench onto the cup as quite-heavy torque is applied.
I did come up with a solution for removing and installing these octagonal Stronglight cups in the form of a 12-point socket and breaker bar as illustrated below.
It is by sheer luck that this 12-point, 1-1/2" (or 38.1mm) size fits snugly enough on the 8-point fixed cup points. I tried the very-next-smaller 1-7/16" size as well and it did not fit, so this seems like the best we can do using inexpensive, ordinary tools. Note that sockets like this aren't that cheap unless you buy off Ebay or get them at the thrift/pawn stores like I did, plus you'll need a breaker bar or hefty ratchet to use them. I prefer the flex-handled breaker bar because the handle can be swung into the exact plane of the socket's engagement such that there will be zero off-axis torque trying to tilt the socket off of the cup!
This almost 60-year-old bb cup came right out using the tool pictured.
I don't remove the fixed cup normally, the factory put them in good and tight from all that I have seen over the years and the 8-sided flats are narrow enough to cause normal wrenches to gouge and slip off unless measures are taken to really affix the wrench onto the cup as quite-heavy torque is applied.
I did come up with a solution for removing and installing these octagonal Stronglight cups in the form of a 12-point socket and breaker bar as illustrated below.
It is by sheer luck that this 12-point, 1-1/2" (or 38.1mm) size fits snugly enough on the 8-point fixed cup points. I tried the very-next-smaller 1-7/16" size as well and it did not fit, so this seems like the best we can do using inexpensive, ordinary tools. Note that sockets like this aren't that cheap unless you buy off Ebay or get them at the thrift/pawn stores like I did, plus you'll need a breaker bar or hefty ratchet to use them. I prefer the flex-handled breaker bar because the handle can be swung into the exact plane of the socket's engagement such that there will be zero off-axis torque trying to tilt the socket off of the cup!
This almost 60-year-old bb cup came right out using the tool pictured.
03-01-18 | 01:31 PM
#53
It seems like it would be more likely to apply "off-axis torque" with a flex-handled breaker bar. Actually, I don't think I've ever seen a breaker bar that wasn't flex-handled.
03-02-18 | 09:49 PM
#54
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 146
Likes: 6
As to the bb overhaul, I hope that you find pristine bearing races inside! Those 118mm Stronglight spindles are a somewhat precious item.
I don't remove the fixed cup normally, the factory put them in good and tight from all that I have seen over the years and the 8-sided flats are narrow enough to cause normal wrenches to gouge and slip off unless measures are taken to really affix the wrench onto the cup as quite-heavy torque is applied.
I did come up with a solution for removing and installing these octagonal Stronglight cups in the form of a 12-point socket and breaker bar as illustrated below.
It is by sheer luck that this 12-point, 1-1/2" (or 38.1mm) size fits snugly enough on the 8-point fixed cup points. I tried the very-next-smaller 1-7/16" size as well and it did not fit, so this seems like the best we can do using inexpensive, ordinary tools. Note that sockets like this aren't that cheap unless you buy off Ebay or get them at the thrift/pawn stores like I did, plus you'll need a breaker bar or hefty ratchet to use them. I prefer the flex-handled breaker bar because the handle can be swung into the exact plane of the socket's engagement such that there will be zero off-axis torque trying to tilt the socket off of the cup!
This almost 60-year-old bb cup came right out using the tool pictured.
I don't remove the fixed cup normally, the factory put them in good and tight from all that I have seen over the years and the 8-sided flats are narrow enough to cause normal wrenches to gouge and slip off unless measures are taken to really affix the wrench onto the cup as quite-heavy torque is applied.
I did come up with a solution for removing and installing these octagonal Stronglight cups in the form of a 12-point socket and breaker bar as illustrated below.
It is by sheer luck that this 12-point, 1-1/2" (or 38.1mm) size fits snugly enough on the 8-point fixed cup points. I tried the very-next-smaller 1-7/16" size as well and it did not fit, so this seems like the best we can do using inexpensive, ordinary tools. Note that sockets like this aren't that cheap unless you buy off Ebay or get them at the thrift/pawn stores like I did, plus you'll need a breaker bar or hefty ratchet to use them. I prefer the flex-handled breaker bar because the handle can be swung into the exact plane of the socket's engagement such that there will be zero off-axis torque trying to tilt the socket off of the cup!
This almost 60-year-old bb cup came right out using the tool pictured.
Should be good to go at that point and start reassembly.
03-02-18 | 09:53 PM
#56
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 146
Likes: 6
And thanks for sending me a Simplex RD too! You da' man!
03-12-18 | 07:26 PM
#57
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 146
Likes: 6
Making slow but steady progress around several bike and other projects while outside riding with some regularity again. Polished the heck out of the frame, dirtiest frame I've ever had, white doesn't help, then touched up spots, paint is looking better than I thought it would again. Cleaned and serviced the bottom bracket (didn't remove the fixed cup) and headset. Polished stem, seat post and seat rails, treated Brookes leather. Installed the new Simplex shifters, rear derailleur, and Mafac brake levers.
Love my ultrasonic parts cleaner - everything but crank and pedals fit in there and de gunned nicely with some Simple Green and dish soap mixed. Fritz polish to the stem and exposed bar areas. Will polish all parts next and then reinstall.
Wheels and rims will take some time and attention.
Still need a French front derailleur and some used tubular tires to finish this one up.
Love my ultrasonic parts cleaner - everything but crank and pedals fit in there and de gunned nicely with some Simple Green and dish soap mixed. Fritz polish to the stem and exposed bar areas. Will polish all parts next and then reinstall.
Wheels and rims will take some time and attention.
Still need a French front derailleur and some used tubular tires to finish this one up.
03-13-18 | 04:39 PM
#59
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,039
Likes: 922
From: Washington County, Vermont, USA
Bikes: 1966 Dawes Double Blue, 1976 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1975 Raleigh Sprite 27, 1980 Univega Viva Sport, 1971 Gitane Tour de France, 1984 Lotus Classique, 1976 Motobecane Grand Record
As to the bb overhaul, I hope that you find pristine bearing races inside! Those 118mm Stronglight spindles are a somewhat precious item.
I don't remove the fixed cup normally, the factory put them in good and tight from all that I have seen over the years and the 8-sided flats are narrow enough to cause normal wrenches to gouge and slip off unless measures are taken to really affix the wrench onto the cup as quite-heavy torque is applied.
I did come up with a solution for removing and installing these octagonal Stronglight cups in the form of a 12-point socket and breaker bar as illustrated below.
It is by sheer luck that this 12-point, 1-1/2" (or 38.1mm) size fits snugly enough on the 8-point fixed cup points. I tried the very-next-smaller 1-7/16" size as well and it did not fit, so this seems like the best we can do using inexpensive, ordinary tools. Note that sockets like this aren't that cheap unless you buy off Ebay or get them at the thrift/pawn stores like I did, plus you'll need a breaker bar or hefty ratchet to use them. I prefer the flex-handled breaker bar because the handle can be swung into the exact plane of the socket's engagement such that there will be zero off-axis torque trying to tilt the socket off of the cup!
This almost 60-year-old bb cup came right out using the tool pictured.
I don't remove the fixed cup normally, the factory put them in good and tight from all that I have seen over the years and the 8-sided flats are narrow enough to cause normal wrenches to gouge and slip off unless measures are taken to really affix the wrench onto the cup as quite-heavy torque is applied.
I did come up with a solution for removing and installing these octagonal Stronglight cups in the form of a 12-point socket and breaker bar as illustrated below.
It is by sheer luck that this 12-point, 1-1/2" (or 38.1mm) size fits snugly enough on the 8-point fixed cup points. I tried the very-next-smaller 1-7/16" size as well and it did not fit, so this seems like the best we can do using inexpensive, ordinary tools. Note that sockets like this aren't that cheap unless you buy off Ebay or get them at the thrift/pawn stores like I did, plus you'll need a breaker bar or hefty ratchet to use them. I prefer the flex-handled breaker bar because the handle can be swung into the exact plane of the socket's engagement such that there will be zero off-axis torque trying to tilt the socket off of the cup!
This almost 60-year-old bb cup came right out using the tool pictured.
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www.redclovercomponents.com
"Progress might have been all right once, but it has gone on too long."
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www.redclovercomponents.com
"Progress might have been all right once, but it has gone on too long."
--Ogden Nash
04-02-18 | 05:15 PM
#61
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 146
Likes: 6
The Peugeot is coming together nicely, slowly but no hurry.
Took it down to bare frame. Being white, it was very dirty. Took several sessions of polish and some white touch up, but looking presentable now. Will finish with a coat of wax once it's totally together.
Ultrasonic cleaned small parts, polished all others. Decided to leave the drive side fixed BB cup in place, and repacked the BB with fresh grease install from the left side, works perfectly that way. Detailed the Stronglight 49D. Pedals would not come off so they were detailed installed. Repacked the headset after polishing.
Installed the new to me Simplex Prestige rear and Criterium front derailleurs, downtube shifters, and Mafac brake levers.
Pardon the dirty wheels, haven't touched them yet. Found some great vintage Vitorria gumwall tubulars.
Nearly done, home stretch now! Been restoring two vintage bikes while servicing my modern road bikes and getting in some miles with this crazy weather, so taking my time.
Took it down to bare frame. Being white, it was very dirty. Took several sessions of polish and some white touch up, but looking presentable now. Will finish with a coat of wax once it's totally together.
Ultrasonic cleaned small parts, polished all others. Decided to leave the drive side fixed BB cup in place, and repacked the BB with fresh grease install from the left side, works perfectly that way. Detailed the Stronglight 49D. Pedals would not come off so they were detailed installed. Repacked the headset after polishing.
Installed the new to me Simplex Prestige rear and Criterium front derailleurs, downtube shifters, and Mafac brake levers.
Pardon the dirty wheels, haven't touched them yet. Found some great vintage Vitorria gumwall tubulars.
Nearly done, home stretch now! Been restoring two vintage bikes while servicing my modern road bikes and getting in some miles with this crazy weather, so taking my time.
Last edited by indycycling; 04-02-18 at 05:22 PM.
