Bottom Bracket Removal
03-03-18 | 09:19 AM
#2
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The fixed cup is almost certainly left handed (i.e. reverse) thread. But, do you need to get the fixed cup off?
03-03-18 | 09:28 AM
#3
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From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
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On the left side you need to remove the lockring first then the cup. It should be traditional righthand threading
I agree with John is there a reason reason it is called the "fixed cup" and normally is only removed when replacing the bottom bracket
Pretty color
I agree with John is there a reason reason it is called the "fixed cup" and normally is only removed when replacing the bottom bracket
Pretty color
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
03-03-18 | 09:39 AM
#4
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Tool Tips--Bottom Bracket Cups
Clockwise will get the fixed cup off. I use washers and a bolt/nut to clamp the Park HCW-4 to the cup so it stays on while I strike the tool.
Clockwise will get the fixed cup off. I use washers and a bolt/nut to clamp the Park HCW-4 to the cup so it stays on while I strike the tool.
03-03-18 | 10:40 AM
#7
feros ferio
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There are evidently only two kinds of fixed cups:
1) those that keep coming loose;
2) those you can't break loose to remove or replace.
1) those that keep coming loose;
2) those you can't break loose to remove or replace.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
03-03-18 | 01:22 PM
#8
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For me there is only one kind of fixed cup, the kind that IS coming off so it can be properly inspected, serviced, replaced if necessary. Then reinstalled knowing it WILL come out next time especially if it does need to be replaced.
03-03-18 | 01:41 PM
#9
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I agree with the above, to the extent that one shouldn't assume that a bb cup is sufficiently tight even if it seems tight.
But an alloy cup should always be pulled and have threads greased when bottom bracket service is done.
In other words, leaving a steel cup in place is ok as long as some real force is used in trying to remove it (and failing), or if some serious tightening torque is applied just in case the cup isn't really in there as tight as it should be.
Factory-installed French and Italian fixed cups usually were tightened very well at the factory, quite unlike those on many Japanese-built bikes. I often leave French bb cups in place, as is, when doing a bb rebuild, but I still test the cup for looseness using some real torque while the crankarms are off.
There are wrenches that can secure the fixed cup with a road-double crankset still in place, and I have had to tighten a loose fixed cup in this manner a few times, but the bearing adjustment at the adjustable cup side definitely needs to be revisited after the fixed cup is re-tightened in these cases. Some adjustable cups and lockrings can be re-adjusted and/or secured with the crankarms in place, using appropriate tools for the particular bb configuration.
03-03-18 | 01:53 PM
#10
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Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
As a lifelong mechanic/technician I have never failed to get the fixed cup out, never destroyed or seriously hurt a frame either. It takes skill, diligence, finesse, proper tools, etc and sometimes a lot more including patience. The cup not wanting to come out is the best/worst reason to get it out for me, then you know it will come out when it has to. Deciding to leave it alone is not an option.
03-03-18 | 09:47 PM
#11
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Agree with that ^^^^. I also remove both my cups with every rebuild. I did have one bike that I absolutely could not remove the drive side though. When in doubt, for me, I have a group of different length breaker bars that work brilliantly. The other technique I have used is Sheldon's. Again, works wonderfully.
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