Converting Trek to triple chainring?
#1
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Converting Trek to triple chainring?
I have a 1984 trek 420 that currently has a double chainring. I want to install a Sakae CX triple. I'd also like to use a cartridge bottom bracket. The Vintage Trek sight says to use a 127.5mm axle that may require a 2mm spacer on the right bottom bracket end. That is with a Sugino AT crankset (triple). Does anybody know if it would be the same with the Sakae CX triple?
#2
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I'm not sure why you would need a spacer. The important thing is to observe the chain line, if it's too close to the frame, then I suppose the spacer is needed.
I converted an old Raleigh from a double to a triple and the only changes that I needed to make were (aside from the crank/chainring, front and rear derailleurs) was I swapped out the 113mm bb assembly (which was loose ball bearings style to the longer axle sealed cartridge version 122.5...IIRC
I converted an old Raleigh from a double to a triple and the only changes that I needed to make were (aside from the crank/chainring, front and rear derailleurs) was I swapped out the 113mm bb assembly (which was loose ball bearings style to the longer axle sealed cartridge version 122.5...IIRC
#3
Another symptom is chainrub on the middle chainring when on the small. I did a couple conversions and pushing the crank farther out helped.
I did a triple conversion on an early 80s Trek 700 with a early shimano 600 double with a triplizer and found the 127.7 was too wide and a 124 worked better.
My experience with triples is to have a variety of spindles to work on the fit. I picked them up at various swap meets, and some are bad, but thats ok for fitting up the triple.
I did a triple conversion on an early 80s Trek 700 with a early shimano 600 double with a triplizer and found the 127.7 was too wide and a 124 worked better.
My experience with triples is to have a variety of spindles to work on the fit. I picked them up at various swap meets, and some are bad, but thats ok for fitting up the triple.
#4
Thrifty Bill

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Many of those older cranksets used asymmetric bottom brackets. So a spacer allows a modern cartridge BB to mimic the asymmetric.
#5
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As an example, say you install a 127mm cartridge and have 6mm of clearance. (You can use an allen wrench as a feeler gauge for this.) In that case, you want a cartridge that's about 3mm shorter on the drive side. That means it will also be 3mm shorter on the non-drive side, or 6 mm shorter overall. Remove the test cartridge and replace it with a 120-122mm one that you've purchased new.
Don't worry about precision too much--there's a fair amount of leeway here. When in doubt, it's better to go a little short than a little long. If the inner ring is too close to the chainstay, you can always increase the clearance by adding a 1 or 2mm spacer under the drive side cup. But if it's too long you have to live with it or get a shorter spindle.
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#6
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To check whether a given BB combination will work, I agree you have to look at clearance between the inner chainring and the chainstay, but you also have to look at the chainline, i.e. the distance from the center of the downtube or seat tube and the center of the middle chainring.
#7
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From: Schroon Lake NY
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Thank you everybody. I do have the axle that came with the triple crank. I'll try that first to get an idea of the length I need. Should the distance from the downtube center to the center of the middle chain ring line up with the middle of the rear derailleur?
#8
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To check whether a given BB combination will work, I agree you have to look at clearance between the inner chainring and the chainstay, but you also have to look at the chainline, i.e. the distance from the center of the downtube or seat tube and the center of the middle chainring.
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#9
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Good luck.
#11
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"The spindle length mainly depends on what kind of crankset you'll be using, and doesn't have much to do with the frame. "
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
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