Jumping in late...

You, it would appear, and you're the only one who matters

And I love your bike. Nicely done.

I was helping my son fight through drop bar discomfort on his mid-90's Trek. We settled on bullhorn bars mounted near saddle height. His wrist and shoulder pain is gone and he's enjoying the local trail nearby. I have liked his setup so far albeit with limited experience, and while I won't change my current bikes to bullhorns, they're on the radar for a someday build. Instead of the cheapo chinese bars we bought for him, I'll cut the ends off a spare set on my box o' crap to lessen the reach, and fit some bar-end bullhorn brake levers, maybe with interrupters.

Just throwing it out there for consideration.

I'm afraid I'm too interested in period-correct components on my vintage bikes to consider bullhorns for much of anything that I ride! I'm glad you find out a solution for your son. To be uncomfortable on a bicycle is a great disappointment.

Also, I'm not converted yet... I've been spending more time out on the drop bars. It turns out that cheap Chinese leather saddle (which I knew was practically painted rather than dyed) is leaving nasty spots on my shorts while I ride, so I've actually been off that pleasant bike for a couple of weeks now! In any case, the debate still rages within me. I've been getting stronger all season and it's a joy to ride fast on the drops, but at the end of the day I'm still debating whether it's worth it. I also go out further and further because of the extra speed and ease, and my wife sometimes looks at me funny when I'm out so long... I guess I need to consider my priorities!

-Gregory

When deciding that style takes precedence over function whether it's period-correctness, the "pro-look" or any other conceit one must accept self imposed handicaps on a machine that is to be ridden rather than hung on the wall for static display. Old designs with limited/single gear ranges, weak brakes, heavy components, odd/uncomfortable ergonomics and idiosyncratic handling characteristics were superseded by designs that addressed those issues decades ago for good reason(s). Choosing to ride a re-built or replica 40's-'60's period-style machine for any distance with reasonable comfort/pace takes a good period fit, a proper saddle, considerable seat-time for adaptation and the a pair of walk-able shoes.

For a good reminder of how these bikes were actually fitted out and used by club riders back when:

I guess that video is bound to appear in just about every thread I start! I'm becoming acquainted with the fit and finish of most of the older bikes that I'm interested in, though I still need to get my hands on a pre-war steel roadster to get a feel for that. I'm particularly keen on finding out of they can be "fast enough" for my tastes.

I've been riding the New Hudson Silver Arrow regularly and enjoy the fit I've got on it, despite the frame being smaller than I would usually like. As you're aware, 23" was a pretty standard "tall" size for production bikes during the golden age of club cycling, so I'm making the best of it! I can maintain 16-18mph for a couple of hours on this bike without any nasty winds, which is about as much as I can hope from a 30 pound machine with 26x1 1/4" rims. Despite that, the bike is perpetually for sale, because there are other steeds I am keener on riding/obtaining.

-Gregory

Being tall and not getting the correct period fit w/ barely a "fist" of seatpost showing at most as seen in the flic or a "french fit" on the small-ish standard sized Brit production frames of the era will most certainly affect both comfort and handling. Sorry to say but investing a lot of time, effort and $ into a frame-set that just does not fit is a waste of all whether it's a 50's Brit club machine or a modern state of the current art TT bike.
25" frames became much more common in the late 60's with a host of geometry, drive-train and component changes from Brit mfgs. Perhaps not your period of interest but doing a backwards downgrade on components on a tall late 60's 531 club bike would be rideable in both fit and operating experience. I won't tell the Period Correct Police if you don't.

-Bandera

Thankfully I did not invest anything in building up the Silver Arrow shown above. It's all original and I am sure I'll make my money back when it finds a buyer. I am actually waiting on another 23" Carlton from the late-1940s with some exciting components and a beautiful original 531 butted frame, though I plan to sell it as well. It should actually arrive today...

Funny you mention it, but I'm actually working on retrograding a 25.5" 1970 Raleigh Super Course to match the look of some late-'50s Raleighs per catalog specs (with "continental" handlebars that I found closely resemble the track bars I used in their stead). I'll be throwing Huret Jubilee derailleurs on it since I have them handy, and will probably keep the original B17 saddle though I'd love a swallow to get a more streamlined appearance. Here's where I'm at on that one - advertisement courtesy Peter Kohler's blog.

Cheers!