Momentarily lowering pedaling force to reduce tension on the drivetrain can help the chain cleanly move from sprocket to sprocket, but there's no reason to totally stop pedaling if things are working smoothly. The drivetrain needs to be spinning in order for the shift to happen!

Yeah, just let up on the tension and soft pedal for couple revolutions, especially for shifts in the front. I do this with my newest brifters too but it only takes a half-rev.

The above-mentioned 10 speed ST (Gugie, you'll see it in person this weekend):

My wife absolutely cannot grasp this. She is constantly having shifting issues, that I can't seem to replicate.

It doesn't help that her description of the problem is usually so vague as to be useless.

Have someone else explain it to her OTHER than her husband (you). They magically believe anybody else's instruction, and advice over yours. Don't ask me how I know.

Not indexed downtube front shifters, AFAIK. But there are indexed twist-grip front shifters (:hurk! and indexed front thumb shifters (:meh out there.

I'd suggest you increase cable tension a little to see if it helps. You do that by turning the barrel adjuster at the rear derailleur counterclockwise. Turn it a quarter turn and see if it changes the shifting. This could also be a bent derailleur hanger.

Lot of good advice but something no one mentioned is lubricating the levers, cables, cable housing and derailleurs, also the chain. The pulleys on the rear derailleur should rotate freely and the top pulley should be able to move a little side to side.

Generously apply some light lubricant to all of the areas that I mentioned. Clean the excess off, reapply and clean again. Work the gears with the rear wheel off the ground. That will distribute the lubricant. If that doesn't help then you will need to adjust the tension on the the rear cable. Seek assistance.

Your LBS (Local Bike Shop) can recommend a good lubricant.

Oiling points on a rear derailleur:




verktyg

^^^^ Impossible to say for sure, but unlikely. Put a small piece of tape on the stem to indicate its current position, then pull it out all the way. Look for a mark referring to its maximum height. It'll either be a line with an arrow pointing to it, or a set of "hash marks" going around the stem. It'll also say either "Min insert" or "max" or "max rise" or the like. That will tell you how high you can raise it, and still be safe.

There was an Exage downtube shifter that was for a double that was indexed.

But I know you were talking about STI, Grip Shift, etc.

There are still older stems out there without a minimum insertion mark. Most manufacturers put the mark at 6-7cm of insertion. Everybody flouts the markings slightly. Sheldon says 5cm or 2". Sheldon's suggestion seems very dubious to a lot of us. Any less than 5cm and you are asking for trouble. You already have a tall stem and have created a lot of leverage.

You'll get more useful hand positions if you rotate the bar backwards or towards you. That could be enough to make it feel like the 'bars are higher.

+1; I always thought the min insertion was in part a function of the overall length of the stem (same with seatposts). If you don't find a minimum insertion mark, you could take the stem to a store or bike co-op that sells used/vintage parts, and find a quill stem of similar construction and length, that does have a mark, and then you'd at least have a point of reference.